Freelander 1 Freelander 1 problem. Jerks on idle. AND cuts power when high temp.

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karavidas

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Hello guys! I am a proud and happy owner of a Freelander 1.
I have a problem for almost 2 years now, which nobody resolved. When on high temperature (around 101-102) it "cuts" power. I can't accelerate, it vibrates heavily and sometimes it even switches off. (problem no1). I used to turn on the AC, so the temperature would not go above 90 and NOTHING happened. It was almost perfect.
Last 3 months I have ANOTHER, even bigger problem. It seriously jerks and vibrates when idle. It seems to me like a "power" problem. Like it lost the timing, or it misfires. Now, it is almost undriveable. I ve asked 2 mechanics for that and even if we did some things, it won't get fixed.
So, it gives me an error Error code P0340 indicates a malfunction with the camshaft position sensor A circuit.
We ve started by changing the multipliers, the spark plugs, the map sensor, and I m not sure if we did even more things (I have to check the book).
Thing is that nothing really helped. I have to point that this new thing is more when idle or accelerating and not when I have more than 3000 rpm. *so, in my opinion this kinda eliminates the fuel injectors. In my humble opinion this is something "power" related. Really hope to find someone with the same problem or with a new perspective, because I m really out of ideas and hopeless.
Thanks in advance!
 
Hi,

Freelander 1.8 ? Petrol engine ?
The engine is know for overheating.
The fuel pump is know for having issues.

Does the cap distributor has been changed ? Can cause a lot of misfire.

Does it start on the button ?
When it finaly start do you have a stable idle ?

For codes, erase then read again. If someone unplug a sensor the fault will stay for an eternity.
 
Alteredtech said:
Hi,

Freelander 1.8 ? Petrol engine ?
The engine is know for overheating.
The fuel pump is know for having issues.

Does the cap distributor has been changed ? Can cause a lot of misfire.

Does it start on the button ?
When it finaly start do you have a stable idle ?

For codes, erase then read again. If someone unplug a sensor the fault will stay for an eternity.
Click to expand...
Hello! Yes, 1.8 petrol!
It's not overheating (not anymore at least). It used to when I bought it, and the problem was the controller of the ventilator. I ve changed it and it seems to work as supposed to. (at 100C it turns on the ventilator, it cools it down and repeat!). I ve never noticed more than 103 even when in highest traffic during the summer.
Fuel pump has almost 140000 km, but would have a problem on idle? or it would have a bigger problem (even staling) when over 3000rpm? (on load).

I don't think I have a cap distributor, at least, I can't find it. (It's a 2003 edition).
MOST of the times it ignites instantly, yes. But after a "crisis" (let me call it that way so we can understand each other) it may take 2-3 tries to start, and you can smell that it has not properly burned petrol.

Even if erased, it shows it again. (Not sure if a recurring problem or not erased properly).
 
karavidas said:
Hello! Yes, 1.8 petrol!
It's not overheating (not anymore at least). It used to when I bought it, and the problem was the controller of the ventilator. I ve changed it and it seems to work as supposed to. (at 100C it turns on the ventilator, it cools it down and repeat!). I ve never noticed more than 103 even when in highest traffic during the summer.
Fuel pump has almost 140000 km, but would have a problem on idle? or it would have a bigger problem (even staling) when over 3000rpm? (on load).

I don't think I have a cap distributor, at least, I can't find it. (It's a 2003 edition).
MOST of the times it ignites instantly, yes. But after a "crisis" (let me call it that way so we can understand each other) it may take 2-3 tries to start, and you can smell that it has not properly burned petrol.

Even if erased, it shows it again. (Not sure if a recurring problem or not erased properly).
Click to expand...
If it's been overheated, have you done a compression test? These engines don't tolerate overheating, as it results in head gasket failure.

The P0340 code means it needs a new cam position sensor, which are known to fail. This sensor is only use for starting, so if it fails once the engine gets hot, it won't effect the running.
 
Nodge68 said:
If it's been overheated, have you done a compression test? These engines don't tolerate overheating, as it results in head gasket failure.

The P0340 code means it needs a new cam position sensor, which are known to fail. This sensor is only use for starting, so if it fails once the engine gets hot, it won't effect the running.
Click to expand...
the previous owner (8-9 years ago) had overheating problems. So I had back then. I ve found the problem and fixed it. Also I replaced the head gasket, and I ve trimmed the (excuse my bad English, but I have to search for the correct word) engine cover.
So now I have 2 problems. One when it gets hot, and one even when it's cold.
The second one is more "emerge" to solve because it makes it undriveable. It trembles and vibrates when I start the engine. Now, of course the first thing I did was to check if the gasket has a problem (typically I would see it overheating, or I would see the oil have "bubbles").
I have to make a compression test, but honestly, those problems started more than 4-5 years after the overheating problem. (and the temperature is monitored when the engine runs).
Another thing I forgot to mention is that it sounds like it "misfires" I mean I have around 800-850rpm, it loses and goes around 680-700, it trembles and gets back..

So the cam position is not the solution (for either of the problems) because the trembling happens even in hot (no2) and the "power cut" when hot is not because of this part.
Now, a difficult question. Given that I ve changed some things, and honestly I can't find anything. (mechanics won't help either. the second one was just looking at it, like he waited for a miracle to happen), could that be a failure of the engine control unit? Could that be my case?
 
Hi,

If you smell pretrol when starting...

Try to find the part NJD10010, is pluged to the spark plugs...

1730794200653.png
 
So you had replaced the spark plugs, the coils, with parts that are new comming in there boxes, not second hand one. And the engine is hard to start and you have petrol smell ?

The engine should not smell petrol if the ignition is good …

Check if the fuel pump is bad, It can give a lot issue …
 
Last edited:
Alteredtech said:
So you had replaced the spark plugs, the coils, with parts that are new comming in there boxes, not second hand one. And the engine is hard to start and you have petrol smell ?

The engine should not smell petrol if the ignition is good …
Click to expand...
exactly. That is my thought too. i mean, the car is kinda simple in logic. new sparkplugs, new coils, so it shouldn't smell.
The other thing I am thinking is maybe too rich fuel? I am suspecting the ECU (because it would explain both problems). Maybe MAF? and how to find if it's really the rich mixture my problem?
 
Fuel pump, is know for having issue, can cause inconsistant fueling, can explain a lot of your problems.
If you can read the live data from the fuel pump … it’s better to spot an issue.
If it has already 20 years …

The ECU is the last thing you want to replace …

For the maf … read the live data via the obd if it shows a good value, it’s certainly good … and it should not giving big trouble.
 
as for the maf is what the torque refers to as VACUUM? if that is the case, I have values around -18 in/Hg, and when it stalls I have temporarily reads like -13, -14..
I will check again my readings..

Yeah, the ECU is the last thing, but if it's the problematic part..

I am not sure that I can read live data for the fuel pump, and I have to check again (going to do it right now), but shouldn't the problem happen mostly on load (more than 3k rpm) and not when idle?
 
Use an obd2 reader, a simple one can read maf values, but maf can't cause the engine to get totaly wrong.
Most cars can run with a maf sensor unpluged, but you will get a code, and you end consuming more fuel.

For the fuel pump, something like icarsoft LR V1.0, or anything that specific manufacturer fonctions ...
Presure should be at 300kPa (43.5 psi)

ECU is part of the immobilization system ... need to be programmed. Or you can change the ECU, the immobilizer ( which is in a impossible place ), 2 keys, the 3 keys barrels.
 
Last edited:
MAP, O2, and crank sensor could cause you're issue, and are much more likely to be at fault than the ECM, which are pretty indestructible on these vehicles.

Out of interest, has the fuel filter been replaced? Low pressure fuel supply could also be the issue here.
 
if my mechanic is right, the filter is inside the pump. so no, I ve never replaced it. unfortunately for these cars, there are no easy market (and mechanics with real knowledge).
i will test the pump pressure tomorrow. the crazy thing is that the biggest problem is on low rpm (so it would indicate that if it faults it is because it gives more petrol than it should, not less.)
as for the map sensor I did this test. it seems it has the correct values (I crosscheck with another Freelander I have, which is working properly).

About the O2 do you have any idea where it is on Freelander? i found the crank, it's not easy to replace it, but I will give it a go if you think it is a possibility!
 
hey guys! Returning here for an update. (I m not sure if I need to make a new post). I ve changed map, I've checked again every possible sensor, and the first problem with the constant trembling is (for now) fixed.
So big thank you to all, you helped a lot in an area where even local mechanics failed.

What remains is the other problem, which (after solving the first one) I was able to diagnose better.
So what happens is this. When the temperature goes above 100C, (ventilator on Freelander starts at 100-101C) it cuts the engine.
The ventilator starts correctly, and the temperature drops, but that doesn't affect the behavior. It's like something doesn't work properly. I recently found out that there is a protection system. Now, I m not sure what is malfunctioning. I would suspend the temperature sensor, but it always gives the right temperature. (if malfunctioning I would expect to see the temperature rising or dropping instantly, but I monitor steady temps.)
Do you have any idea what could be responsible for that?
 
Hi,

The engine should stay around 90°C.
You're engine is overheating, and it should be fixed before an other blown head gasket.

No coolant leak ?
Can be a broken thermostat | a faulty water pump | a clogged radiator | air lock in the coolant system.

The 1.8i was later improuved to fix overheating issue, but not on the Freelander.

Regards
 
Last edited:
hey again! Are you sure? I verify that the exact same coolant temperature is found on 2 more Freelanders (with no problem to date).
I forgot to mention that I'm taking the temperature from my obd port, using torque.
what I can tell is that I see the thermostat opening around 88 (drops to 83-84, then climbs again), and the radiators start on 100-101 on all 3 of them. thing is that only mine (from 3) cuts power.
No coolant leak at all..
is there any manuals that refer to the values I should find?
it gives me a really hard time.
 
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