Faulty Lifters

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Hamster97 said:
Autodata gives 3 options according to climatic conditions, Cold: 5/30 Moderate: 10/40 Hot 20/50. Alternative, 15/40.
Now I followed that and put 10/30 in it (2nd number having nothing to do with the weight of the oil) although I was more interested to hear the opinion of many more experienced and knowledgable opinions rather than just follow what autodata says.

PS, checked the almost empty top-up tub in my boot.....15/40.

Would mixing 10/30 and 15/40 cause it to go tits up?-No
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5/30 high speed mutivalve engines
(Twin cam 16valve and turbo lumps, be aware using fully synthetic in high mileage engines that haven't used it before=carbon removal and problems)

10/40 semi for general 8 valve rubbish and v8 's (not too thin or thick)

15/40 for worn engines-if it uses 10/40 oil-use 15/40 40 reduce consumption

20/50 for something like old mini's etc
(but cheap 20/50 will cause black death sludge in high speed modern engines)
 
fanatic said:
5/30 high speed mutivalve engines
(Twin cam 16valve and turbo lumps, be aware using fully synthetic in high mileage engines that haven't used it before=carbon removal and problems)

10/40 semi for general 8 valve rubbish and v8 's (not too thin or thick)

15/40 for worn engines-if it uses 10/40 oil-use 15/40 40 reduce consumption

20/50 for something like old mini's etc
(but cheap 20/50 will cause black death sludge in high speed modern engines)
Click to expand...

Would hardly call a V8 a modern highspeed engine.:D:D:D
 
the 30 is the hot viscosity and 30 is abit thin for our climate.

I run 10w40 magantec in the 3.9 rrc but in my 1972 rrc with the pre 76 3.5 I found that even 10w40 was too thin and had to go to 20w50 or 15w50.

You cant mix fully synthetic with semi or mineral oil but mixing mineral and semi is ok.
 
fett said:
****part are!

new parts that dont work are a common thing mate from them mate, made by kids in india.

I was reading a back issue of lro today from about 93 and it somone had the same probs as you. turned out it could 1 of 3 things

1. airiated oil from splits in pick up pipe etc.

2. blocked oil galleries to the tappets, they are very small and only takes a little gaket compound or gakket floating in the oil to block them.

3.faulty tappets.

btw this was on a recon engine and the tappets were replaced again after that and it still didnt sort it for more than a short time.

I would clean the galleries and buy genuine parts mate or you will keep ****in inot the wind
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Dragged your reply from another post into here where it is more on topic lol.

New OEM lifters ordered today.
Only one question there mate. How do I clean out the galleries that feed the lifters?
 
The pre load is necessary on high lift cams, its not really necessary on a standard cam. Did my P38 cam and 3.5 cam no probs. Could be ****parts from britparts. I tried a maf sensor from them it was worse than my broken one!!! Just remember when you do replace the lifters pump them full of cam lube or STP. Try realsteel for lifters or Kent cams. Google it should be a few choices.
 
jonny427 said:
The pre load is necessary on high lift cams, its not really necessary on a standard cam. Did my P38 cam and 3.5 cam no probs. Could be ****parts from britparts. I tried a maf sensor from them it was worse than my broken one!!! Just remember when you do replace the lifters pump them full of cam lube or STP. Try realsteel for lifters or Kent cams. Google it should be a few choices.
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Think you need to re-phrase the "Pump them full of cam lub or STP" statement. Otherwise someone on here is going to end up with a lot of bent valves and pushrods. I think coat them with plenty of cam lub or STP is a much safer statement.:cool::cool::cool:
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Lol.

Still haven't received the new ones yet but their arrival is imminent.
I don't think I got a definitive answer for my lifter prep question.

As they are new and sealed...no need to squeez them out right?
They come in an oil bag already primed so is it ok to just fit them (apart from the lube around them and on the cam lobes)?
Should I soak them or is it not necessary?

Thanks.
 
Hamster97 said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Lol.

Still haven't received the new ones yet but their arrival is imminent.
I don't think I got a definitive answer for my lifter prep question.

As they are new and sealed...no need to squeez them out right?
They come in an oil bag already primed so is it ok to just fit them (apart from the lube around them and on the cam lobes)?
Should I soak them or is it not necessary?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Look at them make sure none are extended. Take a cup full of oil, or better still use STP. Dip them in the cup and drop them in. When all in, pour the cup full of whatever you chose onto them and cam. Start engine wait until oil pressure light goes out then rev engine 1500- 2000 for a few minutes and they should go quiet. Personally i would use a slightly thicker oil than the 10W30 you say you have in. If your engine has done a few miles use the thickest oil recommended for your vehicle. Sticking a can of STP or Wynns in will do no harm at all.
 
I found a pic of the oil galleries in an old copy of lro today mate, bit tricky to show you and not sure how you would clean them.

its the bulge in the casting between the lifters if that makes any sense??
 
soak them in something like brake cleaner/thinners and use compressed air to blow crap out when softened would be my plan of attack
 
OK, I think I know where I'm up to now.

Wammers, thickest recommended oil is 20/50 for warm climates. Is this what you meant or should I use the listed alternative of 15/40?

Fan, how do I soak the galleries in the block? Compressed air I can do so thanks for that.

Will probably run a flush before I change them too, just to be sure.

Cheers lads.
 
Hamster97 said:
OK, I think I know where I'm up to now.

Wammers, thickest recommended oil is 20/50 for warm climates. Is this what you meant or should I use the listed alternative of 15/40?

Fan, how do I soak the galleries in the block? Compressed air I can do so thanks for that.

Will probably run a flush before I change them too, just to be sure.

Cheers lads.
Click to expand...

15/40 should be good enough. You have to use oil for our climate not for the equator or the north pole.
 
Have you had oil pressure tested with gauge and is it worse hot?

On cranks etc in past i have used small brushes and solvent.

I've not personally done a v8 oil gallery but engine flush would be easiest way-but is double edged sword as it can make high mileage / worn engines use oil and smoke.
(some of the new ones say you can drive with it in-don't as I know of two cars that eaten themselves)

Running flush through I would run at same speed as cam run in procedure with no load to ensure adequate flow and pressure-if you decide to use it.

If the holes are small a ink jet refill syringe and blunt needle can be used to feed solvent in and in certain cases I have used gas welding wire/piano wire as it resists breaking.

Personally I would remove valley,spark plug/rockers/push rods/lifters,pull fuel pump fuse so you don't get fuel everywhere and crank and see what flow of oil appears.
 
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They should be purged by pumping oil into the lifter, this method has been tried and tested on race engines and works. Do use good quality oil.
 
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You are correct regarding the filling of the tappets with stp / cam lube Wammers, but squeezing the oil out of the tappets not ole bean.
 
jonny427 said:
You are correct regarding the filling of the tappets with stp / cam lube Wammers, but squeezing the oil out of the tappets not ole bean.
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What the hell are you on about? You don't fill new tappets with anything. Least of all STP, you will never get it out of a new tappet without a 20 ton press. You just making sure they are all retracted soak them and fit them. The squeezing out of oil only applies only IF you are fitting tappets removed from the engine back into it. In this case the tappet MUST be put back on the same lobe it came from to match the wear and they MUST be retracted by squeezing in a vice to avoid any danger the valves making love to the pistons. You put STP ON new tappets NEVER IN them. You do not squeeze any oil out of new tappets just make sure they are all at rest and not in any way extended. Is that clear ole bean?
 
Wammers you fill the lifters with oil, as I have just said you were right regarding the STP / cam lube, that was my mistake, the llifters should be filled with oil. I fitted a cam with over half an inch lift and before checking the pre load these just touched the piston. The standard cams are very mild and If a valve was to hit a piston the cam timing would have to be way out.
 
jonny427 said:
Wammers you fill the lifters with oil, as I have just said you were right regarding the STP / cam lube, that was my mistake, the llifters should be filled with oil. I fitted a cam with over half an inch lift and before checking the pre load these just touched the piston. The standard cams are very mild and If a valve was to hit a piston the cam timing would have to be way out.
Click to expand...

Sorry you are wrong, the only thing you need to do with new tappets is to dip them in lubricant and fit them. The engine oil pressure will fill them and take up the play within a very few moments. How many engines have you built. Not many i will bet? You fail to recognise the basic principal that an hydraulic tappet expands to take up slack between the tappet (cam follower) and in this case push rod. If the tappet when fitted is extended beyond that which is required to fill that gab then the valve could strike the piston or at the very least you will have an open valve until the spring pressure forces the oil out of the tappet and it operates normally again. Apart from a small amount of oil used in assembly new tappets will have no oil in them at all untill the engine oil pressure fills them. That is the way they work. You never under any circumstances pump oil into them and expand them before they are fitted.
 
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