EKA no go

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awillemsen

awillemsen

Active Member
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Llandrindod Wells, Powys
This has almost certainly be asked before, so many apologies - but the search doesn't want to work on my tablet...

Battery went flat just before Christmas and it's taken me two weeks to sort a warranty exchange. Putting new battery in, and I got the usual window and sunroof not set messages. Sorted these, but engine doesn't start - get Engine Disabled message. So, tried to enter EKA code but nothing happens. Both remotes were working and still flash when buttons are pressed. Key locks and unlocks drivers door OK.

One thing that occurred to me is that I've been having problems with the bonnet sensor - car says bonnet is open when it isn't. Usually a squirt of WD40 corrects it. Is it right that the EKA will only work with the bonnet shut? There is no Bonnet Open message, but I'm guessing this only appears when the engine is started?

Any other reasons why the EKA wouldn't work (it's worked fine before)?

Thanks!

BTW car is 2000 4.6
 
Because you have lost sync and alarm has gone off the bonnet must be closed ie switch once re sync has been done its wouldn't matter apart from you being told you have a miss lock ie you left a door open when locking it
So sort switch re sync and all will be ticity boo;)
 
I've tried it all ways :). And I've tried pressing the fob buttons with the key in the lock and in the ignition.

Is there any way of fooling the car into thinking the bonnet is shut?
 
Grit Valve said:
Because you have lost sync and alarm has gone off the bonnet must be closed ie switch once re sync has been done its wouldn't matter apart from you being told you have a miss lock ie you left a door open when locking it
So sort switch re sync and all will be ticity boo;)
Click to expand...
The FOB automatically re-syncs when placed in the ignition on the OP's car.
 
Most of the ones I get in with the EKA not working have a faulty door latch. there is a separate switch in the latch for the key barrel, the latch works fine otherwise so people don't notice that anything is wrong until they need to enter the EKA.
Also quite often when this happens after a flat battery the BECM and PCM tumble codes need resynchronising, don't know if you can do this with a Nanocom I use a T4
 
When i rebuilt my engine and had battery diconnected for a couple of weeks i followed eka about a hundred times no luck till my dad kept giving advice which added to not being able to start car was agitating me so in anger i showed my dad what should happen and low and behold the extra force made it work so get angry
 
awillemsen said:
Doesn't unlock with fob. Only unlocks with key and then alarm goes off when I open the door.
Click to expand...

Check your fob battery's even tho light flashes if the fob isn't working the only way you can disable the engine is with the eka

To check if you fob is working take the battery's out for more than one minute lock your car put some new battery's in.

Now press the button once to check the light is working, now your car is locked open the car via door with key do not press any buttons only the drivers door will unlock,with the fob key light facing you put it in the ignition keep looking at the light on the fob don't take your eyes off it turn the barrel to position 1 the light in your fob will flash your other door locks will open telling you your key is now re synced start car if the other locks don't open or your fob doesn't flash you have something wrong with your fob , and the only way forward from now is too enter your eka code

To do this I'm sure you know turn the lock 4 times anti clockwise to the lock position and return to the centre position now enter your code clockwise anticlockwise clockwise anticlockwise and and finally clockwise your door is now open and your engine will now start if the anti theft indicator light is still flashing your code has been entered incorrectly

And sort the bonnet out.
 
Last edited:
Mine had the same problem used the black box sync mate to reset the engine Imobilizer, didn't matter if the bonnet was shut or not.
 
Also as some of you members may be aware we have two p38's

The method above is for a1999 version our 1998 version is extacly the same procedure
Only when the key is put in the ignition and you turn the key it won't auto re sync ( the passive bit in the ignition barrel) so you turn the ignition to position 1 and push the unlock button to re sync I believe the passive was only put in the later cars myself others believe different. The only true difference is that one does it automatically and the other is you pressing the button at the end of the day your doing exactly the same thing.

How do I know all this because I spend the time to operate the fobs with buttons or just the key blade only battery's in and battery's out

That's how you learn things !!!

Am I paranoid that I might get locked out or lose sync no:D:D:D
 
owl said:
Most of the ones I get in with the EKA not working have a faulty door latch. there is a separate switch in the latch for the key barrel, the latch works fine otherwise so people don't notice that anything is wrong until they need to enter the EKA.
Also quite often when this happens after a flat battery the BECM and PCM tumble codes need resynchronising, don't know if you can do this with a Nanocom I use a T4
Click to expand...
Nanocom will do the re-sync:D
 
Thanks for the replies - much appreciated.

Grit Valve said:
To check if you fob is working take the battery's out for more than one minute lock your car put some new battery's in. Now press the button once to check the light is working, now your car is locked open the car via door with key do not press any buttons only the drivers door will unlock,with the fob key light facing you put it in the ignition keep looking at the light on the fob don't take your eyes off it turn the barrel to position 1 the light in your fob will flash
Click to expand...

Done this - fob light does not flash when key is turned to position 1.

Grit Valve said:
And sort the bonnet out.
Click to expand...

Bonnet is, I think, sorted. I've had the latch and switch out, and tested the switch - circuit is closed when the button on the switch is not pressed, and open when it is pressed. In other words, just connecting the switch to the multiplug closes the circuit. So, I tried with the switch connected (but not in the latch). I also tried with the pins on the multiplug bridged to close the circuit manually. Neither worked. Greased the latch and reassembled - still no joy. Is there any other way to tell if the switch is registering open or closed?
 
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