P38A EAS level confusion

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Think I'm getting closer to my problem, even if I'm not any closer to the solution!
If i set standard height and let it settle, the front target heights are not reached and the front left is a couple of cm higher than the front right, while the rear is level
 
Haha yes, though i can't think of anywhere round here that's flat and level
Yes it's on my drive but it's slightly downhill, front to rear as the landy sits
Maybe i should get the jack and stands out to force it to the correct height, then see what the readings are
Teach it a lesson, so to speak
 
Righto, tyre pressures checked, suitable piece of wood under one wheel. Long spirit level to check all 4 wheels are as level as i can measure.
Measuring centre of hub to wheel arch, both rears are spot on, both fronts refuse to reach target values, currently;
Left target 105 actual 109
Right target 106 actual 101
Going to have a good look underneath to see if anything appears seized or stiff
 
kermit_rr said:
Righto, tyre pressures checked, suitable piece of wood under one wheel. Long spirit level to check all 4 wheels are as level as i can measure.
Measuring centre of hub to wheel arch, both rears are spot on, both fronts refuse to reach target values, currently;
Left target 105 actual 109
Right target 106 actual 101
Going to have a good look underneath to see if anything appears seized or stiff
Click to expand...
This sounds familiar, my fronts are always 2nits above and or below and won't hit the target unless it's in normal road mode. It stinks of 20yr old sensors.....
 
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Mark Piercy said:
This sounds familiar, my fronts are always 2nits above and or below and won't hit the target unless it's in normal road mode. It stinks of 20yr old sensors.....
Click to expand...

+1, the sensors have worn differently, no biggie. If actual counts on the front axle are level across the axle,then write those to target and you're done. Or calibration blocks (30mm dowel, 105mm Rear, 100mm Front) will avoid the need for putting wood under the wheels, checking the tyre pressures etc (although you'll still want a chock, on a sloping drive, obv), and then you can write Actual values to Target with total confidence - once off, no running from one corner to the next measuring etc
 
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romanrob said:
+1, the sensors have worn differently, no biggie. If actual counts on the front axle are level across the axle,then write those to target and you're done. Or calibration blocks (30mm dowel, 105mm Rear, 100mm Front) will avoid the need for putting wood under the wheels, checking the tyre pressures etc (although you'll still want a chock, on a sloping drive, obv), and then you can write Actual values to Target with total confidence - once off, no running from one corner to the next measuring etc
Click to expand...
You cannot wear a double resistance track differently as you put it, the tracks are either intact or they are not. Build up of dirt may cause erratic readings, that can usually be cleared by exercising the sensor from end to end. Have you ever seen inside a sensor?
 
What, again? You're putting words in my mouth... "Worn differently" just means they read differently, for whatever reason, I don't mention the tracks, call it aged differently, it means the same
 
I tried that and plenty of other things that made no difference to result.
I had equal results and stored to target. It was still not hitting the targets on the front. Even after adjusting the rears to force a result from the front readings. When seen in the live data section the front sensor results would flicker up and down from102 down to 99 while the air block was idle.
Did the dowels and the stick and always a inaccurate and unsettled result. :(
 
Mark, I agree in the sense that subsequently the (my) car never actually achieved Target after set-up, particularly on the front axle, but at least you know that the Target values are level.

Maybe the bit counts wd all marry up with 4 brand new sensors but my Eas works fine so I haven't splurged on new ones
 
Mark Piercy said:
I tried that and plenty of other things that made no difference to result.
I had equal results and stored to target. It was still not hitting the targets on the front. Even after adjusting the rears to force a result from the front readings. When seen in the live data section the front sensor results would flicker up and down from102 down to 99 while the air block was idle.
Did the dowels and the stick and always a inaccurate and unsettled result. :(
Click to expand...
At least nine don't flicker, only change if i rock the car or get in it etc. Didn't get underneath today, maybe tomorrow
 
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