Eas system holds air then drops after driving and turn off

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dubloman said:
Tried it the way you have suggested and I get the same result.

Any ideas what else could wrong?

I've checked all the fuses under the bonnet and they are all fine.

I know that air is going into the system as when the airlines are removed from the valve block to check something else it had pressure.

The compressor works and the car has a fault that it will show no eas and then after running for about 1 minute it chucks out the eas fault.

Is there anyone in Preston Lancashire that can try and connect it with another device?
Click to expand...
Are you using a USB to serial adaptor for the EAS software? If you are, did you plug the adapter in before installing the driver?
 
How much pressure ? The tank should generally be from 120-140psi when it's full. If the compressor is tired (usually from feeding a leak somewhere), the tank will never fill, and you will get apparently random faults as the ECU tries to adjust. FYI the faults often don't make sense but generaly can be traced to 1 or 2 specific causes.

If you leave the car running for 5-10 mins with driver's door open, the compressor should fill the tank & then stop. (While the door is open it will not try to adjust heights). If it never stops the pump needs a refurb, or the diaphragm valve is leaking.

Unscrew the exhaust silencer from the valve block, and check for air leaking when the compressor is running. There should not be any. (there is a short burst of air when the pump stops, and also when lowering, but not at other times)

Also, I have seen the ECU get into a confused state, where it lowers the car at startup or shutdown. It would really help to know what the faults actually are.

1. Get the car running & stationary, and allow the EAS to level the car.
2. Connect the diagnostics & make sure EASunlock has good idle.
3. Read faults & then clear them using the "Unlock EAS" button.
4. Now wait for the car to finish any further leveling.
5. Select disconnect in the software, and exit the program.
6. Disconnect the cable from the car diagnostic port
7. Switch off the car, get out the car & shut the doors.
8. Now listen for the EAS clicking solenoids as it adjusts after you get out. It stays awake for 30-60 seconds for this.

Go for a cuppa, and then stry starting again. FYI, Confused EAS ECU can be caused by unplugging the diagnostics whilst it busy reading data. I've had some EAS ECU's thta do this, but others are fine !!
 
pwood999 said:
How much pressure ? The tank should generally be from 120-140psi when it's full. If the compressor is tired (usually from feeding a leak somewhere), the tank will never fill, and you will get apparently random faults as the ECU tries to adjust. FYI the faults often don't make sense but generaly can be traced to 1 or 2 specific causes.

If you leave the car running for 5-10 mins with driver's door open, the compressor should fill the tank & then stop. (While the door is open it will not try to adjust heights). If it never stops the pump needs a refurb, or the diaphragm valve is leaking.

Unscrew the exhaust silencer from the valve block, and check for air leaking when the compressor is running. There should not be any. (there is a short burst of air when the pump stops, and also when lowering, but not at other times)

Also, I have seen the ECU get into a confused state, where it lowers the car at startup or shutdown. It would really help to know what the faults actually are.

1. Get the car running & stationary, and allow the EAS to level the car.
2. Connect the diagnostics & make sure EASunlock has good idle.
3. Read faults & then clear them using the "Unlock EAS" button.
4. Now wait for the car to finish any further leveling.
5. Select disconnect in the software, and exit the program.
6. Disconnect the cable from the car diagnostic port
7. Switch off the car, get out the car & shut the doors.
8. Now listen for the EAS clicking solenoids as it adjusts after you get out. It stays awake for 30-60 seconds for this.

Go for a cuppa, and then stry starting again. FYI, Confused EAS ECU can be caused by unplugging the diagnostics whilst it busy reading data. I've had some EAS ECU's thta do this, but others are fine !!
Click to expand...
Maye I misread it but I don't think the compressor runs except via jumping the relay.
 
Update on the car

Still can't get the laptop to communicate with the car. Checked all obvious problems and everything seems fine.

Stranger still is the the system put the rear up to normal level overnight but not the front.

So I opened the tailgate and run the car to then find the compressor is working and after about 5 minutes I closed the tailgate and the front came up.

I've left the car for about an hour and am going to go out and see if it kicks up a eas fault.

The problem will still stand if I can't get the laptop communicating with the car.

Would a nanocom be of any use and if so (is anyone in Lancashire prepared for me to come to them to plug in to see if it communicates with the car) that's before I look at buying one.

Thanks
 
dubloman said:
Update on the car

Still can't get the laptop to communicate with the car. Checked all obvious problems and everything seems fine.

Stranger still is the the system put the rear up to normal level overnight but not the front.

So I opened the tailgate and run the car to then find the compressor is working and after about 5 minutes I closed the tailgate and the front came up.

I've left the car for about an hour and am going to go out and see if it kicks up a eas fault.

The problem will still stand if I can't get the laptop communicating with the car.

Would a nanocom be of any use and if so (is anyone in Lancashire prepared for me to come to them to plug in to see if it communicates with the car) that's before I look at buying one.

Thanks
Click to expand...
A Nanocom will do the EAS unless the comms problem is with the car but if the pump is running and it came up there cannot be a fault logged in the ECU. The rear always comes up first to avoid blinding other drivers if the headlights are on.
 
There's several things that will stop EASunlock talking to the car.

1) As Keith pointed out above, the USB-Serial driver install needs to be done in the correct sequence. you must uninstall the Microsoft windows driver first. (see below)
2) Bad connections between the diagnostic port and the EAS ECU. Usually the left footwell connectors or diagnostic port corroded.
3) Timer relay has been replaced with a regula 4-pin relay. The timer relay is required for diagnostics to connect.
4) Crap cables with incorrect chipset or wiring.

USB-Serial cable driver install:

1. Connect the cable to the laptop but not the car.
2. Open device manager & uninstall / remove the Microsoft Driver.
3. Manually install the driver that came with the cable.
4. Check what serial port has been assigned.
5. Switch ignition on position-2, but don't start the car yet.
6. Plug the cable into the diagnostic port & connect to laptop. Depending on the cable wiring you might get the beeps & EAS warning briefly on dash.
7. Now run EASunlock & try to connect. The dash should normally beep again at this point, indicating the timer relay has toggled to restart the ECU.
8. you need to see "Good Idle" in the software main screen, or any faults read are bogus.
 
Datatek said:
A Nanocom will do the EAS unless the comms problem is with the car but if the pump is running and it came up there cannot be a fault logged in the ECU. The rear always comes up first to avoid blinding other drivers if the headlights are on.
Click to expand...
That makes sense

Thanks
 
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