P38A Duchess is in the garage!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
11,001
Location
Shropshire
Finally finished the block pavior drive, got the Morris 8 out of the carport under a tarp and the cortina 1600E out of the garage and under the carport where the Morris was.
He she is being lined up for the pit then backed out to remove the planks.
IMG_20210830_154854_689.jpg

And the first try ever of the jacking beam
IMG_20210830_163828_680.jpg

First impressions are there is lots of rust around all the brakes and steering arms, rear brake pipes, side steps, the front n/s shield for the level sensor thing is broke, someone has replaced the front to rear brake pipes in copper cos they are green, oil mist around the bottom of the rear diff pan, think it may have rotted, it's very rusty, that's it for now, run out of time for today.
 
I've got a couple of questions already, should I do new posts as they arise?
I'll just use this thread to update on progress yeah?o_O
 
Okay dokey.:)
I've got the recommended handcock battery:p and the earth lead just reaches but the nasty landy clamp won't clamp very well. If I cut it off there won't be enough cable left to fit another better one, I've got a couple of ideas but wondering what others have done?
Secondly, I want to do a tank pump output test before I drop the tank to do the brake pipes so I can fit another pump if it's weak, I don't want to cut the floor. However even though I've pressed the metal clip down the pipe won't come out the filter head. I'm worried about breaking it if I pull too hard having heard they are fragile. I can rotate the pipe slightly but it still won't come out. Any tips for that:oops:?
 
Flossie said:
Okay dokey.:)
I've got the recommended handcock battery:p and the earth lead just reaches but the nasty landy clamp won't clamp very well. If I cut it off there won't be enough cable left to fit another better one, I've got a couple of ideas but wondering what others have done?
Secondly, I want to do a tank pump output test before I drop the tank to do the brake pipes so I can fit another pump if it's weak, I don't want to cut the floor. However even though I've pressed the metal clip down the pipe won't come out the filter head. I'm worried about breaking it if I pull too hard having heard they are fragile. I can rotate the pipe slightly but it still won't come out. Any tips for that:oops:?
Click to expand...
Unless the previous owner has played with the cables I can't see the problem, nothing wrong with the clamp, fitted mine the other day.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210826_133933.jpg
    IMG_20210826_133933.jpg
    283 KB · Views: 131
I've improved it Alan:).
On close inspection, the end of the clamp , the split sides were touching so not allowing any more clamping force. I've run an hacksaw blade up it and closed the gap up again in a vice and it clamps much better. Before, I could just lift it off no matter how tight the nut was.
The earth cable is bolted in two places, I removed it just to check the earth's were clean, it's standard with no way of gaining anymore slack without modding something which I didn't want to do really. The battery is the problem as the terminals are central, if they were at the back as I suspect the OE battery was, there would be no issues.
I was going to fit an earth extender cable from the cable lug under the fusebox to the body earth stud, that would give enough slack to chop off the clamp and fit a better one. Looks like I don't have to now:D
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Correct you are.
it will break.

They get brittle....take it out (the clip) gentle like this...
Pull square don’t twist on the 90 get it close
View attachment 246847

There’s o rings in there.
Click to expand...
Got the clip out and it still won't come, I even went beyond what I would consider excess force, but, no.
So it's staying put, I'll do the flow test with the filter it's self removed.
All earth's cleaned up around the fusebox area and protected with grease.
Slackened off the oil filter, that was tight! Then decided to take bits off for a look-see at leak offs etc.
Took the egr valve off and that was a bit cruddy, inlet manifold had liquid oil in it, see pic, some up the intercooler hose too. I'm looking at an egr delete, seen the kit for £40 odd but, and correct me if I'm wrong, is there any reason why I can't weld some steel over the exhaust inlet pipe and then I think, I need to block the small pipe too?
Going to order air/oil/fuel and pollen filters, glow plugs, leak off pipes , manifold O rings and an egr delete if my plan to weld it up is stupid. Never had a car with egr or owt so still learning:rolleyes::D.
Egr
IMG_20210831_112521_135.jpg

The cone where the steel pipe fits is also steel so I could weld a plug in there?
Inlet leaking oil
IMG_20210831_112425_277.jpg

This is where I'm up to. Anything else I should clean/change/check whilst it's apart thus far?:cool:
IMG_20210831_112554_182.jpg
 
Flossie said:
I've improved it Alan:).
On close inspection, the end of the clamp , the split sides were touching so not allowing any more clamping force. I've run an hacksaw blade up it and closed the gap up again in a vice and it clamps much better. Before, I could just lift it off no matter how tight the nut was.
The earth cable is bolted in two places, I removed it just to check the earth's were clean, it's standard with no way of gaining anymore slack without modding something which I didn't want to do really. The battery is the problem as the terminals are central, if they were at the back as I suspect the OE battery was, there would be no issues.
I was going to fit an earth extender cable from the cable lug under the fusebox to the body earth stud, that would give enough slack to chop off the clamp and fit a better one. Looks like I don't have to now:D
Click to expand...

I made a copper sleeve from some 22mm pipe for MrGorsky's.
 
Intercooler looks new. Is normal for some oil get pushed through into intercooler from the turbo. If it’s right up in inlet it’s been left too long. Just plug the vac pipe with a screw/weld it/block it discretely choice is yours.

Winters coming - Decent glows not cheapies ;)

May be worth spending £10 on head sensors if your in there perhaps? have a look see if they are old/renewed check their function with you diagnostics. (If you take them out you let air in your coolant system mind).
They aren’t so much an issue for someone with plastic manifold & Ncom.

Check the coolant hoses coming out of engine are okay while you have access/visability

Those fuel connectors do not want to budge you can see why people snap them, but they do come. Gently Bently as Grrr says...snap them you’ll be sorry. For all we know PO has glued them solid - not worth breaking it just for pump reading they will run on broken pump if you keep tank well over 1/4 just struggle up hills and towing. Ask me how I know :rolleyes:;)
 
I know nothing about the dirty diesel, But.
In @RangeRoller dt pic do not push down on that bit to help release collet O ring? some of these modern clips are a right PITA.

Just a fort:);).

J
 

Attachments

  • 0921E32A-9FD0-4AC3-A088-B86C224A6A00_LI.jpg
    0921E32A-9FD0-4AC3-A088-B86C224A6A00_LI.jpg
    244 KB · Views: 131
As for the EGR blanking, just a blank gasket of suitable material would work in whatever end and leave everything else connected;).
No need to get the welder out:eek:.

J
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Missing infotainment system in Vogue 2010 TDV8 facelift version
3 4 5
Replies
96
Views
3K
roythebus
R
K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
855
kevleaper
K
roger352
FOR SALE landrover discovery 300 tdi
Replies
12
Views
2K
Knappster
Knappster
S
Defender 90 TD5 Low miles
Replies
17
Views
2K
steveyorks
S
M
Brake fluid leak or not
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
mousemat
M
Back
Top