P38A Duchess is in the garage!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I may have to try that - been having no luck so far. Otto is gripping his fan nut like a limpet. Bolted 3 feet of similar bar to one bolt point on the water pump and turned it so it was against the shaft, held that solid and clouted the spanner a fair few times but no luck at all with getting the nut to turn.
 
The female hex drive on the tensioner wasn't tight, I turned it clockwise about 11/2 turns before it went tight up against the block? Don't seem right that.
Before I release the tensioner with a pry bar, should that be slacked off a bit? Ref releasing the tensioner, does the arm bolted to the bottom of the spring loaded ram need to move clockwise?
IMG_20211010_173314_626.jpg
 
Flossie said:
The female hex drive on the tensioner wasn't tight, I turned it clockwise about 11/2 turns before it went tight up against the block? Don't seem right that.
Before I release the tensioner with a pry bar, should that be slacked off a bit? Ref releasing the tensioner, does the arm bolted to the bottom of the spring loaded ram need to move clockwise?
View attachment 250039
Click to expand...

You should be able to get a big screwdriver in to release the tension. Slow and careful as that tensioner arm is prone to crack. Pry bar definitely sounds like too much. The hex thing is just a xover from memory so doesn't need to be that tight. Cannot remember exactly though.
 
I used a long breaker bar with a socket to take up the slack in the gap between the pivot and ram , that just gave me enough down movement before I came up against the air filter box.
IMG_20211011_150139_496.jpg
 
Scotiawhiskers said:
I may have to try that - been having no luck so far. Otto is gripping his fan nut like a limpet. Bolted 3 feet of similar bar to one bolt point on the water pump and turned it so it was against the shaft, held that solid and clouted the spanner a fair few times but no luck at all with getting the nut to turn.
Click to expand...
You do know it's a left hand thread I suppose?
 
Old thermostat was partially open and fully opened at 55 Deg when tested, the new one opened at 80deg. Probably/hopefully the reason for my temp gauge barely moving(it moves using nanocom) and I won't have to replace the sensor which looks a bugger to get at.
Waterpump was a plastic impeller and although looked perfect, was replaced with a steel impeller one I got off @Rubberknees . Found a piece of plastic in the waterpump opening which came off an old pump I suspect.
Fitted all new belts too.
Fitted newly painted rear bumper all held on with stainless steel bolts.
Checked the rad with a marble, all good, and flushed it out but it was clean. Got the intercooler full of petrol soaking then hopefully start putting the lot back together tomorrow.:D
IMG_20211011_140305_502.jpg
 
Flossie said:
Old thermostat was partially open and fully opened at 55 Deg when tested, the new one opened at 80deg. Probably/hopefully the reason for my temp gauge barely moving(it moves using nanocom) and I won't have to replace the sensor which looks a bugger to get at.
Waterpump was a plastic impeller and although looked perfect, was replaced with a steel impeller one I got off @Rubberknees . Found a piece of plastic in the waterpump opening which came off an old pump I suspect.
Fitted all new belts too.
Fitted newly painted rear bumper all held on with stainless steel bolts.
Checked the rad with a marble, all good, and flushed it out but it was clean. Got the intercooler full of petrol soaking then hopefully start putting the lot back together tomorrow.:DView attachment 250131
Click to expand...
Just glad to help:D
 
Flossie said:
It's off:D
No amount of wacking the spanner with a lump hammer worked so I knocked up a tool from scrap to slip over the bolt heads of the waterpump pully, no wacking just a quick grunt. I did want it to slip over 3 of the 4 bolt heads but for some reason one of the holes wouldn't drill, it was too hard and kept blunting my drill bits, the other 2 drilled no problemo_O.
It worked fine with 2 though. Welded that to a piece of wall strap for a handle.View attachment 250028 View attachment 250029 View attachment 250030
Click to expand...

That is truly amazing :)


that you still have your AC tensioner plastic cap :p:D
 
Datatek said:
You do know it's a left hand thread I suppose?
Click to expand...
Yes - double checked, fan is anticlockwise running, so nut is a clockwise removal. Water pump was done by a garage for the previous owner not long before we got him, wondering if they threadlocked it. VC is permanently engaged (better than not engaging but still a pain) so would be good to get that changed. And even better to have access to the crank pulley to do the shim / no shim check on the rocker shafts having had to have the heads skimmed.
 
Fitted rear wheel well liners, the smaller infill panels(behind the mudflaps) and the mudflaps themselves using stainless steel hex head tek screws. The aluminium reinforced flossiefix(patent pending)for mudflaps that are fooked work very well:cool:.
IMG_20211012_143621_814.jpg
 
Got the rad, intercooler, shroud and viscose fan back in , didn't enjoy that much.
Buttoned everything else back up, replaced the slam panel, power steering reservoir, bonnet lock catches and grill screws and bolts with stainless, oh, and stainless for the 4 bolts holding the battery tray in too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
Missing infotainment system in Vogue 2010 TDV8 facelift version
3 4 5
Replies
96
Views
3K
roythebus
R
K
Is my RR Classic in EAS shutdown?
Replies
12
Views
855
kevleaper
K
roger352
FOR SALE landrover discovery 300 tdi
Replies
12
Views
2K
Knappster
Knappster
S
Defender 90 TD5 Low miles
Replies
17
Views
2K
steveyorks
S
M
Brake fluid leak or not
2
Replies
37
Views
2K
mousemat
M
Back
Top