P38A Duchess is in the garage!

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Fuel tank and cradle refitted with stainless nuts and bolts,, bit of a fight with it I have to say mainly trying to get the new rubber filler pipe located but it's in. New stainless steel hose clips for the filler pipe.
New twin tailpipes freshly painted and installed.
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Flossie said:
Fuel tank and cradle refitted with stainless nuts and bolts,, bit of a fight with it I have to say mainly trying to get the new rubber filler pipe located but it's in. New stainless steel hose clips for the filler pipe.
New twin tailpipes freshly painted and installed.View attachment 249833 View attachment 249834
Click to expand...
Get the paint out you've scratched it.;)
 
Messing around with the rear bumper.
Lots of rust removed and painted.
Threaded Brass locating bushes, 2 per side, that hold the sides of the plastic skin to the side extensions were wrecked. These were drilled out to 8.5mm straight through to the outside and countersunk to accept countersunk M8 stainless steel bolts.
The heads will be hidden behind the body coloured inserts, very little room behind these inserts hence the countersunk bolts.
The steel bumper top face had a nasty dip which I flattened but the plastic skin still dips in that area. I've heated the plastic up with a hot air gun and clamped it between two short planks, hopefully it'll 'cure' level again.
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Heating the saggy plastic skin and clamping it straight whilst still hot has worked well:).
Trial fitted it to Duchess and I'm pleased with the look and fit.
Roughed it up and gave it a couple of coats of plastic primer. This has to be left for 24hrs according to the rattle can so I'll topcoat it tomorrow weather permitting:rolleyes: satin black.
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1600E or the Morris 8 haven't decided yet, the 8 would be quicker though, the E is a massive job. I'm hoping Duchess doesn't play up much when she's done as any work that needs doing once another car is in the garage will need doing outside.:rolleyes:
 
Stuffing= studding:rolleyes: bluddy auto correct.
Just come in and finally got the incooler and rad out. What a faff.
It seems impossible to get the shroud out to me:mad:, the rad wouldn't clear it at the bottom because of the lower protruding brackets and 2 unused threaded outlets(which are for the manual box I believe). The shroud has been butchered about half way down on the battery side and held together with tie wraps which I cut off and it still didn't want to come without a fight. Ended up undoing the two bolts on the engine oil cooler and shifting it back a bit just to get a little more clearance. The bolt on the passenger side was practically inaccessible and I couldn't undo it all the way as my spanner was coming up against something.
Am I doing something wrong regarding the shroud?
Is the shroud necessary?
Suspect it is...
 
Flossie said:
Stuffing= studding:rolleyes: bluddy auto correct.
Just come in and finally got the incooler and rad out. What a faff.
It seems impossible to get the shroud out to me:mad:, the rad wouldn't clear it at the bottom because of the lower protruding brackets and 2 unused threaded outlets(which are for the manual box I believe). The shroud has been butchered about half way down on the battery side and held together with tie wraps which I cut off and it still didn't want to come without a fight. Ended up undoing the two bolts on the engine oil cooler and shifting it back a bit just to get a little more clearance. The bolt on the passenger side was practically inaccessible and I couldn'tcapo undo it all the way as my spanner was coming up against something.
Am I doing something wrong regarding the shroud?
Is the shroud necessary?
Suspect it is...
Click to expand...
Did you take the fan off? Think the cowl /shroud comes off easy if you do.
 
Flossie said:
Stuffing= studding:rolleyes: bluddy auto correct.
Just come in and finally got the incooler and rad out. What a faff.
It seems impossible to get the shroud out to me:mad:, the rad wouldn't clear it at the bottom because of the lower protruding brackets and 2 unused threaded outlets(which are for the manual box I believe). The shroud has been butchered about half way down on the battery side and held together with tie wraps which I cut off and it still didn't want to come without a fight. Ended up undoing the two bolts on the engine oil cooler and shifting it back a bit just to get a little more clearance. The bolt on the passenger side was practically inaccessible and I couldn't undo it all the way as my spanner was coming up against something.
Am I doing something wrong regarding the shroud?
Is the shroud necessary?
Suspect it is...
Click to expand...
To be honest Chris I cut my shroud off and binned it. Touch wood been Ok for nearly 6 years now
 
Flossie said:
Stuffing= studding:rolleyes: bluddy auto correct.
Just come in and finally got the incooler and rad out. What a faff.
It seems impossible to get the shroud out to me:mad:, the rad wouldn't clear it at the bottom because of the lower protruding brackets and 2 unused threaded outlets(which are for the manual box I believe). The shroud has been butchered about half way down on the battery side and held together with tie wraps which I cut off and it still didn't want to come without a fight. Ended up undoing the two bolts on the engine oil cooler and shifting it back a bit just to get a little more clearance. The bolt on the passenger side was practically inaccessible and I couldn't undo it all the way as my spanner was coming up against something.
Am I doing something wrong regarding the shroud?
Is the shroud necessary?
Suspect it is...
Click to expand...

I don't recall ever having any issues getting the intercooler out. You did remove the slam panel? As far as I recall I just remove the slam panel and grill and undo the power steering reservoir and it can be wriggled out the top. Mind you, I have the manual so no oil cooler for the gearbox to worry about.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I don't recall ever having any issues getting the intercooler out. You did remove the slam panel? As far as I recall I just remove the slam panel and grill and undo the power steering reservoir and it can be wriggled out the top. Mind you, I have the manual so no oil cooler for the gearbox to worry about.
Click to expand...
Yep, slam panel, PS Res, even the battery box cos I couldn't get at the bolt lower left of intercooler, RH bolt was ok, the two at the top were seized as well which didn't help time wise.
Oil cooler was the problem, not enough room to move the rad back to clear the shroud.
@Rubberknees , no John,Alan, I didn't remove the fan, didn't look enough room to get at it with the shroud in. I might be mistaken though as I've never had a viscous fan car or messed with one before. Is it the big nut behind the fan I have to undo?( clockwise).
That's how I understand it, hold the fan somehow and a sharp smack to the spanner?.
Interesting about leaving the shroud off though...
I think the coolent rad has been replaced at some point with maybe the wrong one as I have 2 ports at the bottom which are, I read somewhere, are for the manual gearbox cooler. They got in the way of pulling the rad up and two lugs on the rad at 90deg on the bottom of the rad, wouldn't let the shroud pull up. Bloody mare it was.
I'm going back to it in a bit to get the front bumper off, I'll leave the fan stuff until I'm sure of the method and check in later:oops::D
 
Flossie said:
Yep, slam panel, PS Res, even the battery box cos I couldn't get at the bolt lower left of intercooler, RH bolt was ok, the two at the top were seized as well which didn't help time wise.
Oil cooler was the problem, not enough room to move the rad back to clear the shroud.
@Rubberknees , no John,Alan, I didn't remove the fan, didn't look enough room to get at it with the shroud in. I might be mistaken though as I've never had a viscous fan car or messed with one before. Is it the big nut behind the fan I have to undo?( clockwise).
That's how I understand it, hold the fan somehow and a sharp smack to the spanner?.
Interesting about leaving the shroud off though...
I think the coolent rad has been replaced at some point with maybe the wrong one as I have 2 ports at the bottom which are, I read somewhere, are for the manual gearbox cooler. They got in the way of pulling the rad up and two lugs on the rad at 90deg on the bottom of the rad, wouldn't let the shroud pull up. Bloody mare it was.
I'm going back to it in a bit to get the front bumper off, I'll leave the fan stuff until I'm sure of the method and check in later:oops::D
Click to expand...

Yes, fan off then shroud. I wouldn't leave it off. Shouldn't need to do more than pop the shroud clips at the top to get the rad out though.

Same rad for auto you just don't use the connections at the bottom.
 
slam panel, grille off never had problem? saying that i have manual also and the first time stripping it took ages due to the jubilee clips etc being inaccessible, now they are spun round its easy, must have had the engine out when they put them on?
 
Took the front bumper off to investigate why the rubber seal between the top of the bumper and the bottom of the nearside headlamp was squashed up. The gap was much narrower than the offside. The steel bumper was bent up, pushing the plastic skin up, took a pic of it before I straightened it up but that didn't come out. This is where I'm at currently. Going to have a go at getting the fan off next . So hold the nut on the back and tw@t a suitable lug on the front face with something suitable yes?
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It's off:D
No amount of wacking the spanner with a lump hammer worked so I knocked up a tool from scrap to slip over the bolt heads of the waterpump pully, no wacking just a quick grunt. I did want it to slip over 3 of the 4 bolt heads but for some reason one of the holes wouldn't drill, it was too hard and kept blunting my drill bits, the other 2 drilled no problemo_O.
It worked fine with 2 though. Welded that to a piece of wall strap for a handle.
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