700Quid
Active Member
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- 341
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- The Iceni Badlands
Not sure about the polly.. but might be easy to burn it out
Did a bit of burning... :flame:...
Not sure about the polly.. but might be easy to burn it out
If your fitting polybushes all of the old bush has to come out. Best way to get that last metal sleeve out if you dont have access to a hydraulic press is to cut it with a hacksaw in one or two places then hammer it out.
The simply answer is yes it all has to come out regardless of whether you are fitting oem or polybushes.
I have just done them on my radius arms. Used a drill through the outer rubber rim which leaves just the outer metal sleeve in place. Then just used my powerfile to almost file through the sleeve instead of trying to hacksaw it. Once it was almost all the way through a tap with the cold chisel saw it gone
Well done on the first welds too. I think i would have been tempted to just replace that cross member but flair play to you I think you have done a good job of it.
If you get a thin punch or strong screwdriver you can drive it between the sleeve and the raidus arm and it will fold in on itself and just fall out. No need to drill/burn/cut anything.
That welding looks good for Gassless, I cut them through with a hacksaw then hit a punch next to the cut and they fell out.
Grit blast is slow, I prefere wire wheels on 4.5 grinders, grit blasters give a realy good finish though, I did my pedal box last summer and looks great. Used kiln dried sand from wickes and worked well, but you use a lot.
you should look at soda blasting
Yeah I have tried a flappy paddle grinder 40grit, also wire wheel they both work well but I can't get right in to the little corners. I've got a spot blaster will do big surfaces with the grinder.
Sounds like we are on the same wavelength
Thanks for your advice and I totally see where you are coming from. I still find it hard to justify (for instance) the difference of almost 100 quid between genuine brake calipers and pattern, OEM ones... Especially as I own a Jag as well and have found Jag/Landrover do stamp stuff with their name and triple the price..
Are they really that bad that they are unsafe? I also think some confusion can be had because as you say they put their name to a whole range of quality... I.e some stuff they stock is OEM.. I don't know, you have left me in a quandary... I am just struggling to see that they could be THAT bad to be unsafe.... :scratching_chin:
Hi mate, coming from a range rover/disco background, I have always rebuilt original calipers using stainless pistons and OEM seal kits, works a treat every time and saves a few quid! If you are looking for rear brake discs, the recent ones I ordered from britpart were actually AP Lockheed discs so basically genuine! Might be different another week though depending on which supplier they use I suppose?!
Good luck with the disco, You may have just inspired me to restore the family heirloom disco that nearly got sent to the scrappy last week, although I did swear not to do another!
Ok so not much done this week. My compressor still hasn't arrived, Machine Mart sent all the other bits just not the thing to plug them in to!!! :violent:
I'm waiting for it before I continue with the chassis as I want to get some rust out of little corners. Anyway i had a little time today so thought I'd start on the rear arches, I forgot to take a photo of the off side one before cutting it out but if you imagine the picture of the near side is about three times worse and hanging off you'll get the idea.
so this is n/s the o/s was completely rusted round three sides once the paint was removed
So this is the patch welded in. Feel my welds are getting better this is before I clean it up with a flappy wheel...
Still got some patching to do on this bit but I'm getting there slowly.... the n/s arch is not nearly as bad so that will be quicker to cut out and patch. By then hopefully my compressor will have turned up and I can really get on. Still got the smell of flux up my nose from all the welding
Nice work so far... try slowing the motion down and filling the welds a lil more. I tend to do a bit like lil overlapping circles
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