Discovering the Discovery... Basic Rebuild...

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Rangy alloys on a Disco would they work matt black?

  • Yes they would look proper horny!!!

    Votes: 4 25.0%

  • No I am currently vomiting on my keyboard I feel abused!!!!!

    Votes: 12 75.0%
  • Total voters
    16
  • Poll closed .
700Quid said:
Also sorry I didn't mean to tread on anybodies toes, just thought it would be fun to show and tell :tea:

Now this raises an interesting question, I would love to hear peoples thoughts on this. I often use aftermarket parts on my other vehicles as I don't like paying through the nose for something that is basically the same. I would have though that to make and sell devices in this country which involve safety etc they must be made to certain standards?? I mean walder, do you only use Land Rover brake pads? Or would you be happy to have other ones just not "Bluebox"? :scratching_chin: excuse my ignorance but when you say "blue box" do you mean a specific company that ryhmes with Git Fart?
I have never had a problem with aftermarket things brought from good companies, Ebay is another kettle of fish mind you :fencing:....
Click to expand...
Hey don't worry about my toes fella. I didn't mean anything by it just letting you know it was there in case you wanted to refer to it for any help.

As for Britpart I have bought loads of stuff in "blue boxes" and not had an issue.
 
Yeah I think I will buy the ones from Island4x4 I've got a bunch of stuff to get and its between Paddock, Island 4x4 and britishparts that I'm looking. Had a bloke at work who said he could source me mild steel plate for a really good price, I'm also going to the local fabrication company Friday with some of the local currency to see what I can blag off them :D

Cheers for your advice mate checked out the thread was really good..... Having a go at the suspension tom night and over the weekend... so will throw some pics on of how I'm getting on.....
 
Hey.

as I've been menitoned thought i'd better pop my head round the post..


looking good so far!!
 
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700Quid said:
Now this raises an interesting question, I would love to hear peoples thoughts on this. I often use aftermarket parts on my other vehicles as I don't like paying through the nose for something that is basically the same. I would have though that to make and sell devices in this country which involve safety etc they must be made to certain standards?? I mean walder, do you only use Land Rover brake pads? Or would you be happy to have other ones just not "Bluebox"? :scratching_chin: excuse my ignorance but when you say "blue box" do you mean a specific company that ryhmes with Git Fart?
I have never had a problem with aftermarket things brought from good companies, Ebay is another kettle of fish mind you :fencing:....
Click to expand...

I'll give you an example, I am going to do a minor overhaul of my front brakes (when I get a round to it) so off I went to Paddocks, credit card in hand. I bought a calliper seal kit (Lockheed) Flexible brake lines (Goodridge) and brake pads (Mintex) No Britpart or Land Rover components. I think you have to make a judgement on quality/price I'm quite happy to use Britpart/Almakes/Bearmach for trim and stuff but always go OEM (or genuine) for important stuff.
Don't forget that Brtipart et al don't make anything, they source from suppliers, package and market components that range from rubbish Chinese manufactured stuff to good quality OEM parts.

Another example, I had a S111 to service the other day and the oil pressure light was on, the switch was U/S. My local supplier only had a Britpart switch in stock, guess what, it didn't fit, the threaded fitting was wrong and wouldn't screw in to the housing so back to the supplier and swapped it for another, same bag same, part number and this one fitted. What if that sort of quality control was applied to a brake hose?
 
StallionSteve said:
So I spend the weekend helping my mate, and anxiously wait the photos of the next installment ..... Still waiting ..... ;)
Click to expand...

Sorry mate was to knackered last night after the TWO hours trying to remove that one bolt!!!! :violent:

I promise I'll add all the photos tonight. My Fertan turned up today and so I can now crack on with preping the chassis.

:boink: sparkie... :D
 
Ok so as was said earlier the Stallion was back over this weekend :banana: causing trouble and generally wondering around my house ****ed in his pants and only one sock swearing at the dogs... however in between the women and the drink he was able to help me out...:pop2: and we managed to get the body lifted, and the suspension + axle off. After removing the axle we had a quick look at it and it seems the pan on the back is made from, well best described as, some kind of gossamer fine fairy wings :angel:... I really don't know how it hasn't leaked. I'm not sure if I should cut it off and weld a new one on or if I should reinforce it with a steel band....:scratching_chin: simple because the very thin sound it made might be misleading.. I'm not sure any way here's the pics and the red neck 9" lift kit is not staying on the car...


Body lifted...









More gossamer fairy dust at work here!!







YUMMYYYY!!







Check it out!! 9" lift kit didn't cost a penny.... So yeah you loose a little structural integrity... Nothing a couple of cross brace batons won't fix :hysterically_laughi

SO anyway next step... the clean up as I said earlier Fertan arrived today so I'm about to go and splash some of that on then welding practice.... ALOT of welding practice.. Oh and sheet metal should arrive tom, fingers crossed so hopefully I can start cutting back and get to the fixing.... Please remember to vote on the wheel poll... your advice is highly valued :D
 
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waldershelf said:
I'll give you an example, I am going to do a minor overhaul of my front brakes (when I get a round to it) so off I went to Paddocks, credit card in hand. I bought a calliper seal kit (Lockheed) Flexible brake lines (Goodridge) and brake pads (Mintex) No Britpart or Land Rover components. I think you have to make a judgement on quality/price I'm quite happy to use Britpart/Almakes/Bearmach for trim and stuff but always go OEM (or genuine) for important stuff.
Don't forget that Brtipart et al don't make anything, they source from suppliers, package and market components that range from rubbish Chinese manufactured stuff to good quality OEM parts.

Another example, I had a S111 to service the other day and the oil pressure light was on, the switch was U/S. My local supplier only had a Britpart switch in stock, guess what, it didn't fit, the threaded fitting was wrong and wouldn't screw in to the housing so back to the supplier and swapped it for another, same bag same, part number and this one fitted. What if that sort of quality control was applied to a brake hose?
Click to expand...

Thanks for your advice and I totally see where you are coming from. I still find it hard to justify (for instance) the difference of almost 100 quid between genuine brake calipers and pattern, OEM ones... Especially as I own a Jag as well and have found Jag/Landrover do stamp stuff with their name and triple the price..

Are they really that bad that they are unsafe? I also think some confusion can be had because as you say they put their name to a whole range of quality... I.e some stuff they stock is OEM.. I don't know, you have left me in a quandary... I am just struggling to see that they could be THAT bad to be unsafe.... :scratching_chin:
 
700Quid said:
Thanks for your advice and I totally see where you are coming from. I still find it hard to justify (for instance) the difference of almost 100 quid between genuine brake calipers and pattern, OEM ones... Especially as I own a Jag as well and have found Jag/Landrover do stamp stuff with their name and triple the price..

Are they really that bad that they are unsafe? I also think some confusion can be had because as you say they put their name to a whole range of quality... I.e some stuff they stock is OEM.. I don't know, you have left me in a quandary... I am just struggling to see that they could be THAT bad to be unsafe.... :scratching_chin:
Click to expand...
It can be a minefield and I know what you mean about JLR putting parts in their boxes and adding a big mark up.

As we were talking about callipers I had a quick look at prices for my 90, I'm sure your disco will be the same. Pattern calliper £50, AP Lockheed £100, Land Rover £400, (all round numbers). In this specific instance I would go for the AP Lockheed option, they are the OEM, the Land Rover calliper is the same thing in a Land Rover box at an inflated price. The pattern part could be anything, it could be OK or it could kill you first time you drive it.

Only you can decide which way to go, I'm just trying to let you know my thought process when making a decision on which suppliers parts to buy.
 
waldershelf said:
It can be a minefield and I know what you mean about JLR putting parts in their boxes and adding a big mark up.

As we were talking about callipers I had a quick look at prices for my 90, I'm sure your disco will be the same. Pattern calliper £50, AP Lockheed £100, Land Rover £400, (all round numbers). In this specific instance I would go for the AP Lockheed option, they are the OEM, the Land Rover calliper is the same thing in a Land Rover box at an inflated price. The pattern part could be anything, it could be OK or it could kill you first time you drive it.

Only you can decide which way to go, I'm just trying to let you know my thought process when making a decision on which suppliers parts to buy.
Click to expand...

I will certainly bare it in mind when purchasing parts. With this in mind what is your view on suspension parts. I'm not looking for any fancy lift etc just ordinary springs bushes and shocks at a fair price?
 
shocks, old man emu I here are one of the best but also cost a bit, pro comp or teraferma are good.
There are plenty of spring charts out there if your looking to get a replacement or also something more HD (all lr springs are the same fitment apart from defender 130 n leaf's)
for example. land rover spring specifications
Poly bushes offer a lil more flex, but I'm told less life.
 
discomark10 said:
shocks, old man emu I here are one of the best but also cost a bit, pro comp or teraferma are good.
There are plenty of spring charts out there if your looking to get a replacement or also something more HD (all lr springs are the same fitment apart from defender 130 n leaf's)
for example. land rover spring specifications
Poly bushes offer a lil more flex, but I'm told less life.
Click to expand...

Excellent thanks mate I will keep on a' lookin and see where the balance to want I want is... That page has a lot of info!!! :mil8:
 
Ok so I tried my first bit of welding last night..... Its wonky and not the prettiest thing in the world but I'm not to bothered as it will be covered up. I have tried some test welds and the mig-welding site has been a huge help for tips etc. The thing I have found hardest is getting the settings correct, and speed correct so A: I get enough penetration.... :banana:.... and B:It doesn't blow through.... It was getting to dark last night to take any pics but I'll get some on tonight as well as get some more welding done... just depends on the rain now, if it does, I may have to start working on the rear quarter panels... We shall see... :rolleyes:
 
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Ok so here's the latest. I have not been able to get to it much over the last week but here are the pictures of what I have managed.



So basically I cut all the old stuff out and thanks to the boys (Tony and Jason) down at Karris Engineering I had lots of bits to cut in and make the repairs. You can see all the bits laid out and ready.....





This was my first attempt at welding. It is a little porous and wonky etc does the job.





Again not pretty, but basically what you seem to get with gasless. It cleans up ok and seems strong enough...





Ok so here is all the rear cross member welding finished I then ground it back



This was a little repair to the near side wing. Just cut off the old lip and welded the new one in place



and last but not least today I applied the Fertan to all the rear bits.



I've added this photo in as I have a question. I am fitting poly bushes and so am doing away with this one. I have now removed most of the old bush however I'm not sure if I should cut through the last metal sleeve. Basically it goes metal, rubber, metal, rubber then metal. Do I remove the very last sleeve or will the new bushes fit inside it? I will be having a quick scan on here as I'm sure there are millions of people having had to remove these...

So my pocket money has been increased thanks to some well timed massages and I'm going to grab a small compressor and mini sand blaster. I'm hoping that this will help me really get in to the difficult rusty places.... :smokin:

Was looking at the little clarke ones on machine mart any opinions etc?
 
If your fitting polybushes all of the old bush has to come out. Best way to get that last metal sleeve out if you dont have access to a hydraulic press is to cut it with a hacksaw in one or two places then hammer it out.
 
700Quid said:
I have a question. I am fitting poly bushes and so am doing away with this one. I have now removed most of the old bush however I'm not sure if I should cut through the last metal sleeve. Basically it goes metal, rubber, metal, rubber then metal. Do I remove the very last sleeve or will the new bushes fit inside it? I will be having a quick scan on here as I'm sure there are millions of people having had to remove these...
Click to expand...

The simply answer is yes it all has to come out regardless of whether you are fitting oem or polybushes.

I have just done them on my radius arms. Used a drill through the outer rubber rim which leaves just the outer metal sleeve in place. Then just used my powerfile to almost file through the sleeve instead of trying to hacksaw it. Once it was almost all the way through a tap with the cold chisel saw it gone

Well done on the first welds too. I think i would have been tempted to just replace that cross member but flair play to you I think you have done a good job of it.
 
If you get a thin punch or strong screwdriver you can drive it between the sleeve and the raidus arm and it will fold in on itself and just fall out. No need to drill/burn/cut anything.
 
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