P38A Diesel Head Removal - Flywheel Pin / Camshaft Locking Plate

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I'll strip down that head and salvage the cam and valves (all of which are in excellent condition).

Remember I said the car came with a spare head? Cleaned the carbon off it this afternoon and, as Cilla would've said, surprise surprise....

View attachment 195739

Is it worth knocking the swirl chambers out firstly to see how far the crack extends (purely inquisitive), but also to keep as spares? Do they come out easy with a bit of heat and a drift?

Now to find a good example, third time lucky!

No get another head.
 
No get another head.

Will do, thanks. Have found another head which has been pressure tested.

Any thoughts on the alloy replacement radiators? Mine has the internal baffle, but it's very beaten up and I don't want some dodgy plastic copy.
 
Will do, thanks. Have found another head which has been pressure tested.

Any thoughts on the alloy replacement radiators? Mine has the internal baffle, but it's very beaten up and I don't want some dodgy plastic copy.

Standard rads have plastic upper and lower tanks. Will be cheaper than a full ally replacement and should have a reasonable service life providing the cooling system is kept up to scratch. The choice is yours. Nissens are quit good quality.
 
I have had a Nissens plastic RAD on my daily driver for 5 years now, not sure how much longer I'll leave it though. My Project car has an all metal RAD.
If the cooling system is kept serviced it will more than likely outlast you. Don't worry about it.
 
If the cooling system is kept serviced it will more than likely outlast you. Don't worry about it.
There were no problems with the cooling system when the last one let go and it was not the original RAD.
It went on a trip to the UK literally as I pulled up at a friends place where we were staying, so without car for 3 days waiting for the new one to turn up.
The current one has had an overheat after the water pump failed, so it will get replaced before too long as I'd sooner be safe than sorry, There are long distances between towns in France.
 
There were no problems with the cooling system when the last one let go and it was not the original RAD.
It went on a trip to the UK literally as I pulled up at a friends place where we were staying, so without car for 3 days waiting for the new one to turn up.
The current one has had an overheat after the water pump failed, so it will get replaced before too long as I'd sooner be safe than sorry, There are long distances between towns in France.

If a rad splits as long as you have a quantity of water or coolant for top up, and some epoxy putty, running with the cap off the header tank will get you a long way. ;):D
 
I've just spoken with the manufacturer of the alloy radiators, Direnza, and they have confirmed that they DO NOT contain an internal baffle.

I can't understand how anyone could possibly think a radiator would flow coolant across all of its surface area without a baffle, and therefore be effective, when both hoses are at the top?
 
Last edited:
I've just spoken with the manufacturer of the alloy radiators, Direnza, and they have confirmed that they DO NOT contain an internal baffle.

I can't understand how anyone could possibly think a radiator would flow coolant across all of its surface area without a baffle, and therefore be effective, when both hoses are at the top?
So they are a waste of time and likely to cook the head:eek:
 
Exactly! Were the original Land Rover radiators plastic topped? If not, perhaps I could source one and have it recored.
Not sure but I do know the plastic RAD on my 95 scrapper failed when the head cracked. Here in France the owner had an all metal custom RAD made with Brass headers. It is now in my project car and will last for ever.
I plan to fit a GEMS V8 RAD to my daily driver, still plastic but without the stress point where the bleed line runs across the top. About 30% better cooling too I'm told.
 
Back
Top