sas1810
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You only need a few '0' size pozi drives in the holes. Don't need to remove the stereo. Its tge drive you want out of the boot. Drivers side.
Diary of a first time Range Rover owner
- Thread starter speedyyellow
- Start date
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You only need a few '0' size pozi drives in the holes. Don't need to remove the stereo. Its tge drive you want out of the boot. Drivers side.
rewmer
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- 2,082
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- Clacton, Essex, UK
Two small terminal screwdrivers in the holes. Do one side at a time and ease it forward.
As far as the DSP amp, international eBay worked for me. I managed to get a new amp from the US for $50+ $50 carriage.Bargain of the century.
speedyyellow
New Member
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- 222
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- Cambs/Beds Border
Barsman, you're a hero. I made some tools out of a wire coat hanger and got the sat nav unit out. With it unplugged the stereo all works! Huge result that as the DSP amp is working, although I guess the chances of my CD cleaner punt fixing the sat nav are reduced now. 
speedyyellow
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I'm working from home today waiting on a delivery (non range rover related) so nipped out to have a look under the bonnet. My paint code is 644, so it's Oslo Blue.
I also had a look at the cruise control hoses as that's not working and they're all cracked and perished. Based on the advice in this thread I have ordered a length of 6mm silicone hose to try and get that sorted as well.
I also had a look at the cruise control hoses as that's not working and they're all cracked and perished. Based on the advice in this thread I have ordered a length of 6mm silicone hose to try and get that sorted as well.
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Would have prefered a good Vacuum hose, silicon may collapse!
speedyyellow
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- Cambs/Beds Border
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Cool Beans - thats fine ..... Had thoughts of a thin walled silicon tube ala Fish Tank Tubing!
speedyyellow
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- Cambs/Beds Border
So I decided to whip off the light guards and survey the damage to the wings:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 17 56 14.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 04 07.jpg
Not as bad as I feared actually. I've put the black allen bolts back in the holes and you can hardly notice them. I'm going to keep an eye out for a better solution, some kind of black rubber headed thing I could screw in to cover the mounting point would be good, or maybe even a metal one I could paint Oslo blue to match.
I don't think it looks too bad with just the screws in place for now anyway
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 38 57.jpg
The car definitely looks better without them
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 18 47.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 18 27.jpg
Edit: Gah, no image resizing thing. I'll change images to links.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 17 56 14.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 04 07.jpg
Not as bad as I feared actually. I've put the black allen bolts back in the holes and you can hardly notice them. I'm going to keep an eye out for a better solution, some kind of black rubber headed thing I could screw in to cover the mounting point would be good, or maybe even a metal one I could paint Oslo blue to match.
I don't think it looks too bad with just the screws in place for now anyway
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 38 57.jpg
The car definitely looks better without them
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 18 47.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/35183162/RR/Photo 16-04-2013 18 18 27.jpg
Edit: Gah, no image resizing thing. I'll change images to links.
Last edited:
speedyyellow
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- Cambs/Beds Border
Another day, another discovery. My CD changer doesn't work. I assumed it was empty but no, there was stuff in there (5 new rock CD's for me!) but it doesn't play. The CD magazine seems to be the same as the one from a 3 series BMW, would a BMW CD Changer unit be a direct plug in replacement or does it have to be out of a P38?
While nosing around in the CD/Sub/Amp compartment I noticed a plug with a tag saying "Phone" on it with 3 wires, one of which was mute. I got to wondering if this could be used to drive an aux input to the stereo, has anyone heard of this being done? A quick google doesn't reveal any info about this phone input so I'm not sure exactly what it is.
While nosing around in the CD/Sub/Amp compartment I noticed a plug with a tag saying "Phone" on it with 3 wires, one of which was mute. I got to wondering if this could be used to drive an aux input to the stereo, has anyone heard of this being done? A quick google doesn't reveal any info about this phone input so I'm not sure exactly what it is.
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- Lincolnshire
You may find std black Allen bolts rust very quickly. Just wondering if those black plastic number plate bolts would fit. I think I've seen em in black. Or something similar.
speedyyellow
New Member
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- Cambs/Beds Border
Think I might not bother fixing the CD changer and instead get one of these & one of these for a bluetooth audio solution. It'll be sweet to be able to just play music from my phone/tablet/whatever.
Oh good call, I've not even been sure what to search for for this. The bolts I've put back were the original ones holding the guards on and there's no signs of rust on them yet.
sas1810
New Member
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- back in Willenhall, West Midlands.
The plug for the phone by the sub is for the land rover phone that was an option years and years ago. Expensive and crap.
speedyyellow
New Member
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- 222
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- Cambs/Beds Border
Cruise Control
I sorted out the cruise control today, took a look at the existing bits and took them off:
As you can see, the old pipes are totally shot. 5 mins later it was all back together with new pipes:
A quick test drive later and success, fully working cruise control again!
I sorted out the cruise control today, took a look at the existing bits and took them off:
As you can see, the old pipes are totally shot. 5 mins later it was all back together with new pipes:
A quick test drive later and success, fully working cruise control again!
tridentbus
New Member
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- 89
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- Ely cambridge
Nice colour ..love the wheels thinking on changing mine
speedyyellow
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- Cambs/Beds Border
I finally got chance to try out my Nanocom tonight with all the proper unlock codes activated. There were a few faults here and there on various systems which I cleared out and then went for a drive. These two faults came back after the drive:
I'm about to start googling but if anyone has any idea what these mean and how serious they are I'm all ears!
I'm about to start googling but if anyone has any idea what these mean and how serious they are I'm all ears!
SpacePig
New Member
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- 393
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- Tokyo - Japan
If you do not mind wasting a bit of money on this I am sure that a body workshop garage could easily fix this and paint over it. Personally I'll really have a look at such option
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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- 44,897
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- Near Poitiers SW France
I finally got chance to try out my Nanocom tonight with all the proper unlock codes activated. There were a few faults here and there on various systems which I cleared out and then went for a drive. These two faults came back after the drive:
I'm about to start googling but if anyone has any idea what these mean and how serious they are I'm all ears!
The first fault may just be when cranking, clear it and see if it comes back with the engine running, if it does not, probably nothing to worry about.
Second one sounds like MAF to me assuming it's a petrol.
speedyyellow
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Yes its a petrol. I couldn't read the codes with the engine running (got a failure to talk message on the Nanocom), only with the key in position 2. Both faults came back after a short drive.
My googling last night revealed that the P1000 code is used on lots of cars to show that the ECU hasn't finished all its checks since the faults were last cleared, and that after driving for a while it should go away. I don't know relevant that is to the RR though.
Presumably I can do some other test with the Nanocom to see if I'm getting a sensible reading from the MAF? Time to RTFM!
My googling last night revealed that the P1000 code is used on lots of cars to show that the ECU hasn't finished all its checks since the faults were last cleared, and that after driving for a while it should go away. I don't know relevant that is to the RR though.
Presumably I can do some other test with the Nanocom to see if I'm getting a sensible reading from the MAF? Time to RTFM!
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