Diary of a first time Range Rover owner

My various bits & bobs have arrived so tonight I can get it shifted from the busy road where the flat-bed dropped it onto the drive where I can have a proper look.

Before I remove the existing starter motor I want to check it is actually broken by forcing it to run directly from the battery. From my brief look I can see two connections to the motor, one small spade connector (presumably this is from the ignition?) and one bigger cable that I assume is the positive feed from the battery. So my question: how do I bypass the ignition system and check if the motor actually spins with 12v applied?

speedyyellow said:

My various bits & bobs have arrived so tonight I can get it shifted from the busy road where the flat-bed dropped it onto the drive where I can have a proper look.

Before I remove the existing starter motor I want to check it is actually broken by forcing it to run directly from the battery. From my brief look I can see two connections to the motor, one small spade connector (presumably this is from the ignition?) and one bigger cable that I assume is the positive feed from the battery. So my question: how do I bypass the ignition system and check if the motor actually spins with 12v applied?

Click to expand...

Remove the small spade connector wire and apply 12 volts, it should operate. If you just hear a click and it does not operate, the solenoid is duff, then with a jump lead apply 12 volts to the heavy cable, then try applying 12 volts to the small terminal again, that will eliminate a problem with the supply cable. Finally, there should be a third heavy connection from the back of the solenoid housing, you could try your jump lead on that, there will be a large spark as you make contact and the motor should run. Not sure I would try that on a P38 though as sparks can create havoc with the electronics Make sure the car is in P or N or neutral if manual.

Perfect, thanks.

I've not updated for a while, but after trying and failing to remove the starter motor (I think someone has tried before and made a mess of the 'hidden' bolt) I reconnected all the power connectors and it worked. I can only assume it was a funky connection and the contact cleaner I sprayed around ready for the new motor did the trick.

Today I wanted to have a look at my boot not opening issue. I think the driver door lock needs adjusting as occasionally operating the lock on the drivers door doesn't activate the central locking, and when this happens the boot will not open. I went out this morning and for he first time in about two weeks I was able to open the boot in the normal way. I don't know if it is coincidence but it is much cooler today than it has been in quite some time so I'm wondering if something moves/expands in the heat and causes the lock to stop working.

I tried taking the door car off but couldn't figure out how to remove the screw thats in behind the lock button (This screw isn't mentioned in my copy of RAVE) I gave up and put it back on. Since the car was letting me have access to the boot I finally got in and fitted my new RF receiver. I opened the one that came out and its a blue spot one with the intermediate internals.

Finally before I came back in I gave the side step retaining bolts a good douse in penetrating fluid as I think I'm going to take them off and see what it looks like.

leave the steps on!

The steps are a PITA to remove. I swapped mine for aluminium as the steel frame on the originals was pretty much non existent & had to cut the brackets out. The side steps do act like huge mud flaps though, you'll be surprised at what they normally deflect off the car if you remove them.