P38A Clutch

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Henry_b said:
Copaslip is the herpes of the Motor industry..

Most clutch kits come with a pouch of specific grease.

Assuming it's a proper kit.
Click to expand...

Odd you should mention that, mine never do. Now, because of a cock up I ended up with 2 AP clutch kits. Both boxes look the same yet one kit has a pouch of grease and the other didn't. The one that didn't had no recognisable manufacturer stamp but the one that did had AP stamped on all parts. The AP stamped one seems tighter too.

EDIT: the AP stamped one also has Range Rover 2.5 BMW on a sticker on the side. The other is missing that sticker too.
 
Last edited:
Gearbox out. Carnage in there. Friction material on gearbox side completely gone. About 3mm of black dust coating everything, lumps of friction material scattered about.

Think I found the issue. The clutch lever was very stiff. On disassembling I found the grease had gone hard and there was what looked like surface corrosion on the bushes. Cleaned it all out and now it moves freely again. I think what has been happening is that the return springs just couldn't overcome the friction on the clutch lever.

So, why did that happen? Where I live the road floods in winter so I tend to wade a fair bit. Add in some winter salt and that is a nasty mix. I'm going to try some Moly grease left over from a CV boot job. The other thing that puzzles me is no wade plug. The transmission has some small holes around the clutch housing but I've never seen a plug. Does anyone else have plugs? @tomcat59alan? @Range rover dt? @brianp38dse? Maybe I'll just hung up with some Hylomar?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Odd you should mention that, mine never do. Now, because of a cock up I ended up with 2 AP clutch kits. Both boxes look the same yet one kit has a pouch of grease and the other didn't. The one that didn't had no recognisable manufacturer stamp but the one that did had AP stamped on all parts. The AP stamped one seems tighter too.
Click to expand...
keep the AP one and the pouch and either send the rest back or put it in your shed depenfing on whose cock up it was.
 
I'll have a look on
Grrrrrr said:
Gearbox out. Carnage in there. Friction material on gearbox side completely gone. About 3mm of black dust coating everything, lumps of friction material scattered about.

Think I found the issue. The clutch lever was very stiff. On disassembling I found the grease had gone hard and there was what looked like surface corrosion on the bushes. Cleaned it all out and now it moves freely again. I think what has been happening is that the return springs just couldn't overcome the friction on the clutch lever.

So, why did that happen? Where I live the road floods in winter so I tend to wade a fair bit. Add in some winter salt and that is a nasty mix. I'm going to try some Moly grease left over from a CV boot job. The other thing that puzzles me is no wade plug. The transmission has some small holes around the clutch housing but I've never seen a plug. Does anyone else have plugs? [USE=66635]@tomcat59alan[/USER]? @Range rover dt? @brianp38dse? Maybe I'll just hung up with some Hylomar?
Click to expand...
my spare clutch housing mate.
 
tomcat59alan said:
keep the AP one and the pouch and either send the rest back or put it in your shed depenfing on whose cock up it was.
Click to expand...

Theirs but at the moment I have already paid for both. I ordered 1 on Monday as it said 3 to 4 days. Thursday I was getting nervous as it said dispatched Monday night but nothing had arrived. So I rang them and was told if I read the small print in their terms and conditions that even if it says 3 or 4 days in reality it could be 7 or 8! I said WTF? Cancelled the order but it can take a week to be refunded. I then put in a click and collect and picked it up Friday (well, MrGorsky got it for me). Today the cancelled one turned up as I was taking the car apart.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Theirs but at the moment I have already paid for both. I ordered 1 on Monday as it said 3 to 4 days. Thursday I was getting nervous as it said dispatched Monday night but nothing had arrived. So I rang them and was told if I read the small print in their terms and conditions that even if it says 3 or 4 days in reality it could be 7 or 8! I said WTF? Cancelled the order but it can take a week to be refunded. I then put in a click and collect and picked it up Friday (well, MrGorsky got it for me). Today the cancelled one turned up as I was taking the car apart.
Click to expand...
Take it ,that it was Euro crap! Box up your old one ,seal the box sorted.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Odd you should mention that, mine never do. Now, because of a cock up I ended up with 2 AP clutch kits. Both boxes look the same yet one kit has a pouch of grease and the other didn't. The one that didn't had no recognisable manufacturer stamp but the one that did had AP stamped on all parts. The AP stamped one seems tighter too.

EDIT: the AP stamped one also has Range Rover 2.5 BMW on a sticker on the side. The other is missing that sticker too.
Click to expand...

I've used 2 AP kits and both had stamps and grease..

Both were good kits..

I'd be weary of the unbranded incomplete one.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Gearbox out. Carnage in there. Friction material on gearbox side completely gone. About 3mm of black dust coating everything, lumps of friction material scattered about.

Think I found the issue. The clutch lever was very stiff. On disassembling I found the grease had gone hard and there was what looked like surface corrosion on the bushes. Cleaned it all out and now it moves freely again. I think what has been happening is that the return springs just couldn't overcome the friction on the clutch lever.

So, why did that happen? Where I live the road floods in winter so I tend to wade a fair bit. Add in some winter salt and that is a nasty mix. I'm going to try some Moly grease left over from a CV boot job. The other thing that puzzles me is no wade plug. The transmission has some small holes around the clutch housing but I've never seen a plug. Does anyone else have plugs? @tomcat59alan? @Range rover dt? @brianp38dse? Maybe I'll just hung up with some Hylomar?
Click to expand...
Grrrrrr said:
Gearbox out. Carnage in there. Friction material on gearbox side completely gone. About 3mm of black dust coating everything, lumps of friction material scattered about.

Think I found the issue. The clutch lever was very stiff. On disassembling I found the grease had gone hard and there was what looked like surface corrosion on the bushes. Cleaned it all out and now it moves freely again. I think what has been happening is that the return springs just couldn't overcome the friction on the clutch lever.

So, why did that happen? Where I live the road floods in winter so I tend to wade a fair bit. Add in some winter salt and that is a nasty mix. I'm going to try some Moly grease left over from a CV boot job. The other thing that puzzles me is no wade plug. The transmission has some small holes around the clutch housing but I've never seen a plug. Does anyone else have plugs? @tomcat59alan? @Range rover dt? @brianp38dse? Maybe I'll just hung up with some Hylomar?
Click to expand...
No plugs mate just two big cut outs that will allow lots of crap and salty water into the clutch housing. Sounds like yours has seized allowing the friction plate to spin to its hearts content until it was worn out.
 

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tomcat59alan said:
No plugs mate just two big cut outs that will allow lots of crap and salty water into the clutch housing. Sounds like yours has seized allowing the friction plate to spin to its hearts content until it was worn out.
Click to expand...
Trick is, don't go over wade height on high suspension setting and don't wade as if you are late for an appointment.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Gearbox out. Carnage in there. Friction material on gearbox side completely gone. About 3mm of black dust coating everything, lumps of friction material scattered about.

Think I found the issue. The clutch lever was very stiff. On disassembling I found the grease had gone hard and there was what looked like surface corrosion on the bushes. Cleaned it all out and now it moves freely again. I think what has been happening is that the return springs just couldn't overcome the friction on the clutch lever.

So, why did that happen? Where I live the road floods in winter so I tend to wade a fair bit. Add in some winter salt and that is a nasty mix. I'm going to try some Moly grease left over from a CV boot job. The other thing that puzzles me is no wade plug. The transmission has some small holes around the clutch housing but I've never seen a plug. Does anyone else have plugs? @tomcat59alan? @Range rover dt? @brianp38dse? Maybe I'll just hung up with some Hylomar?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't plug the holes!
If any water finds its way in, it needs to get out.
If it gets trapped inside the bell housing, it's box off again!! Again ...
What about a more specific grease to deal with wet conditions?
It's a shame you can't drill into the cluch fork axle housing with a fine drill and fit a grease nipple on the outside of the bell housing to grease it every know and again. ??
 
wammers said:
Copaslip is a superb product when used for it's intended purpose. ;):D
Click to expand...

Oh yes I agree but it is often used in the wrong areas, ;)

Brakes are a prime example, i hate it when it's smeared all over pads and hub faces.

It ultimately gets thrown everywhere and then dries so you get a dry dirt infested mess ;)

which gums everything up lol

'tis also gets on the brake piston seal and slider pin bellows and destroys the rubber :confused:

And i've known a few happy hippies to apply it to pad FACES!! to "smooth out braking" believe it or not!! ;)

Also in clutch related areas is a no go IMHO..

:D:D:D
 
Henry_b said:
Oh yes I agree but it is often used in the wrong areas, ;)

Brakes are a prime example, i hate it when it's smeared all over pads and hub faces.

It ultimately gets thrown everywhere and then dries so you get a dry dirt infested mess ;)

which gums everything up lol

'tis also gets on the brake piston seal and slider pin bellows and destroys the rubber :confused:

And i've known a few happy hippies to apply it to pad FACES!! to "smooth out braking" believe it or not!! ;)

Also in clutch related areas is a no go IMHO..

:D:D:D
Click to expand...

A coat of Copaslip on back of pads and edges of back plates is standard practice for replacing pads. It is heat resistant to a very high temperature and waterproof. Do not mistake it for the copper grease you get from Halfrauds. A lot do. ;):D:D
 
wammers said:
A coat of Copaslip on back of pads and edges of back plates is standard practice for replacing pads. It is heat resistant to a very high temperature and waterproof. Do not mistake it for the copper grease you get from Halfrauds. A lot do. ;):D:D
Click to expand...
he he oh yes ;)

I'm just cautious of Sling ;)

A dab will do ya ;)

Of the proper stuff ;)
 
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