Brake calliper bolt will not move

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natas

natas

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,434
Location
Bahamas
I am having to replace all my brake calipers because of brake fluid contamination.

Got the fronts off fairly easily, but I cannot budge the 12 point bolts on the rear calipers.

Any tips on how to get them out? :(

Thanks
 
I think they're about 13mm and I walloped on a 1/2" AF socket onto it and a big bar.
The "big bar" needs to keep the axis of the force applied close to the socket so no tyre extention types (how do I know that...).
 
1/2 inch bihex socket and a breaker bar , hitting head helps especially if socket slips as it mushrooms head making socket tighter fit
 
soak them in plusgas, shock em with a hammer and hope.. if they round, then like above whack on a smaller socket or weld a nut, etc
 
I had the exact same with the rears on my 95 defender.

Used the above suggestions and eventually got them un done. I had a big bar and plenty of penetrating oil. Try and wire brush the bolt heads so the socket goes on nice to start with. Helped me anyway
 
If Loctite's been used on them before, it can help to tap the heads straight on with a hammer to crack the seal.

Are you sure you need to replace the calipers, won't they clean up? You'll still have to get them off to replace the discs though!
 
I put PAS fluid in the brake fluid:eek:

Everything must be changed:mad:

Finally got then off last night using a 5 foot pipe on a 1/2" extension. Broke 2 extensions and 2 sockets !!!!!!!!!

Now I am having some trouble getting the air out of the system.
Today will be the third bleed.
Drove home last night with very mushy brakes.
 
ok, just got back from mechanic.
we bled the brakes 2 more times with no luck.
I press the brake and sometimes it feels fine, sometimes it goes almost to the floor and is very week and sometimes its as hard as a rock but the brakes hardly work.

Any thoughts? brake booster maybe?
Air still in the line?
 
If you've changed the calipers due to contamination, did you also change the master cylinder as well ? :) cos that could be your problem ...
 
Not trying to insult your hand skills, and never done it myself, but it has been mentioned on here before that calipers can be installed upside down (probably by mixing left/right up) such that the bleed nipple at the bottom which makes them near impossible to bleed!!
 
Kwakerman said:
Not trying to insult your hand skills, and never done it myself, but it has been mentioned on here before that calipers can be installed upside down (probably by mixing left/right up) such that the bleed nipple at the bottom which makes them near impossible to bleed!!
Click to expand...


Did exactly this once! Couldnt get to the bottom of my poor brakes for weeks. Eventually found they were the wrong way round.

As said, make sure the bleed nipples are at the top of each caliper
 
Kwakerman said:
Not trying to insult your hand skills, and never done it myself, but it has been mentioned on here before that calipers can be installed upside down (probably by mixing left/right up) such that the bleed nipple at the bottom which makes them near impossible to bleed!!
Click to expand...

+1 I'm guilty of doing this, check bleed nipples are at the top:)
 
There is a junction box that is mounted to the firewall just under the master cylinder that a few brake lines run to and from. I did not change this, would that make a difference?
 
natas said:
master cylinder, calipers and all rubber lines have been changed.
Click to expand...

Is this one of those dual-line jobbies?

I think you need to bleed those in a certain order, starting from the M/C corner, then its pair, (I think other side of axel but not sure), someone will know ...

Also a power bleed thingy helps ...

we had a series once we had to 'prime' each piston in each wheel ... real pain in the posterior ... :eek:
 
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