Brake calliper bolt will not move

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There is a junction box that is mounted to the firewall just under the master cylinder that a few brake lines run to and from. I did not change this, would that make a difference?

Is that the brake balancer?

Oh bleddy eck, it might be a dual line jobbie after all ...
 
Is this one of those dual-line jobbies?

I think you need to bleed those in a certain order, starting from the M/C corner, then its pair, (I think other side of axel but not sure), someone will know ...

Also a power bleed thingy helps ...

we had a series once we had to 'prime' each piston in each wheel ... real pain in the posterior ... :eek:


Please explain what the means.

"starting from the M/C corner, then its pair, (I think other side of axel but not sure), "

M/C corner? then its pair? other side of the axel?
 
bleeding should be straight forward no particular order is necessary, check all joints are tight, fluid isnt splashing in m/c when pedals pumped ,does all air appear to disappear after a few pumps at calipers ,sometimes its necessary to adjust servo rod
 
bleeding should be straight forward no particular order is necessary, check all joints are tight, fluid isnt splashing in m/c when pedals pumped ,does all air appear to disappear after a few pumps at calipers ,sometimes its necessary to adjust servo rod

Do you think that swapping in a known good M/C would help?
 
The M/C is brand new, I would have to order another, would take about a week.
I can do this if it is what you guys think the problem is?
 
Do you think that swapping in a known good M/C would help?


After a couple pumps the pedal gets really hard, but when its really hard there is not much brakes.

then the next time the brakes will be perfect.

very strange
 
bleeding should be straight forward no particular order is necessary, check all joints are tight, fluid isnt splashing in m/c when pedals pumped ,does all air appear to disappear after a few pumps at calipers ,sometimes its necessary to adjust servo rod


Air does appear to disappear after a couple pumps.
 
The M/C is brand new, I would have to order another, would take about a week.
I can do this if it is what you guys think the problem is?

It might be new, but they have been know to 'not work well' ...

do you have access to a known good swap-out to try?
 
The M/C is brand new, I would have to order another, would take about a week.
I can do this if it is what you guys think the problem is?

when your nleeding brakes does air disappear after a few pumps at the caliper ie jar and fluid stop bubbling ?
 
when your nleeding brakes does air disappear after a few pumps at the caliper ie jar and fluid stop bubbling ?


The last 2 times that we bled the brakes we got no air from any of the calipers.
Not sure about the jar?
Is the jar the container on the M/C?
 
Using a jar, partially filled with brake fluid, and a tube , kept under the fluid level, the other end of the tube on the bleed nipple ... helps to stop air being drawn in to the system ...

Yes but the jar falls over every time:rolleyes:
 
Using a jar, partially filled with brake fluid, and a tube , kept under the fluid level, the other end of the tube on the bleed nipple ... helps to stop air being drawn in to the system ...


AAHHHHHH!!!!!!

Do you think this was the problem???
 
lol, sorry, my mechanic used no jar, just straight onto the floor then washed away later:eek:

do it with a jar then you know its clear running fluid with no air , at all 4 corners ensuring nipples fully closed before removing pipe , pump pedal a few times then recheck with pipe and jar at each corner air should go after a couple of pumps ,then get someone to pump pedal whilst you look at fluid in master cylinder reservoir it shouldnt splash up , if everythings ok you can adjust m/c servo rod if theres too much pedal travel
 
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