Bonnet release cable snapped. Any ideas??
- Thread starter Oscar22
- Start date
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kwondo
Member
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- 46
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- Newport, South Wales, UK
did that include trying to open the bonnet by cutting inbetween the spring, dosnt seem much space on a 2005 facelift model ?
No, I didn't have to cut anything. Just slightly wedged one side of the bonnet up with a piece of wood. Then I could see the bolt head on the wedged side with the help of a torch. I could then get the spanner onto the head of the bolt and get a few turns on it. Do the same on the other side and you'll gain enough give to push the wedge in further so you can get the ratchet spanner on, or just persevere with an open ended spanner.
Much easier to do than to explain it.
Much easier to do than to explain it.
kwondo
Member
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- 46
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- Newport, South Wales, UK
a VERY BIG THANK YOU to PlattyR56, just as you said, the only real problem I encounted was when fitting the cable back on the handle end in the footwell was I didn't have the dexterity or patience to put the cable back on, so I removed the plastic handle, I found it easyier that way, apart from not having a thin walled socket, I had to use pointed nose pliers, Thanks again Kwondo, Russell
Kwondo- apologies for the late reply . I was unlucky so it took about 4 hours but i was super careful not to scratch the pain or cut the grille plastic. The pin is also very hard to cut through and if you get the blade out, you might have to start all over again (this happened twice) Plus i had a rounded bolt so took some time to find a solution. Had I been luckier it would have taken an hour or so
cmb1960
New Member
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- North Wiltshire
So this will be far too late to help the OP etc. but hopefully it might help someone else browsing the forum with the same problem, as I was! On my 51 plate (pre face lift) Freelander 1, I was able to see the black plastic cowl by peering through the top of the grille. A 1" chisel, pushed between the plastic and metal that it's riveted to and a few minutes of grunting and the OS pop rivets broke away. The release lever was then accessible, and I hooked it with a tent peg, pulled and popped the bonnet.
Now to follow the instructions above to fit the new cable!
At least this meant I didn't have to hack through 12mm of metal and buy a new catch too! Hope it works for you.
Now to follow the instructions above to fit the new cable!
At least this meant I didn't have to hack through 12mm of metal and buy a new catch too! Hope it works for you.
ciaran ryan
New Member
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- 2
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- ireland
Please help me. Iv popped the rivets on the plastic panel. But i just dont no which is the release lever your talkin about. I see a bit of metal with a spring attached to it. I tried pushing it. It wont push. Does it have to be pulled. Or what does the release lever look lik. A pic would be perfect or just explain what it looks lik. Iv read through all this forum and one person on about takin bolts off and front bumper etc. It doesnt make sense. So iv the rivets bate out with a chisel of the plastic panel so i can look it. But i just dont no what the release lever looks like that u used a tent peg on. I need this done asap as the jeep needs coolant and oil. Thanks so much for your time
freelance
Well-Known Member
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- essex and beyond
Pull it against the spring
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- 58,170
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- Preston Lancs.
Style saw works wonders, but as it's Freelander a tin opener should do. 
Robbie1885
New Member
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- 2
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- Portsmouth
It's easy, with no butchering for the front end needed. The latch that the spring is attached to need to pulled outward, long nose pliers or a tent peg will doi the trick.
neilarmo
Member
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- 48
Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you Thank you
It's just taken me less time to open the bonnet than it did to read this thread. No chisels involved. The ratchet spanner set has paid for itself again.
Cable ordered, car parked up for weekend.
craig allan
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- glasgow (north)
Johnny Handrail
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- Essex
Tent peg worked a treat , thanks .
For future peoples. Freelander 1 pre facelift.
Snapped bonnet release cable.
10mm ratchet spanner/open ended.
Look through the cut out front of the Bonet and then undo the two 10mm bolts that are fixed to the BONNET this will allow to lift the bonnet and access to engine bay.a small screwdriver down the side of the catch spring (careful not to slip) splits the catch in two.
Then lean right over and look under the catch area. Big screwdriver to prize open the black plastic that’s covering the mechanism and there you have it. The hook for a new cable.
Buy a new cable first and then feed it through
Hope this helps, any sugestion is a good one if it works.
Last edited:
Hi, Thank you great thread, but need some additional help if possible please
I have a Freelander 1 TD4, pre-facelift though has additional LR rubber bumper with in built high beam spot lights. I still managed to access locked bonnet with 10mm spanner undoing the 2x bolts on bonnet. Problem I have is that I cant get to the cable. Do I need to break the plastic lower catch cover somehow to give enough movement in the lower catch? I have a new cable and have seen people say to tie string to old cable and pull through, Then pull string back with new cable attached. As its a TD4 cant view lower catch from inside bonnet due to cooler. Really wish to avoid having to attempt to get bumper off as all wheel liner fixings corroded and the additional bumper lights (+ fog light) will need disconnecting and I fear opening a 'can of worms!' Any work around and advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I have a Freelander 1 TD4, pre-facelift though has additional LR rubber bumper with in built high beam spot lights. I still managed to access locked bonnet with 10mm spanner undoing the 2x bolts on bonnet. Problem I have is that I cant get to the cable. Do I need to break the plastic lower catch cover somehow to give enough movement in the lower catch? I have a new cable and have seen people say to tie string to old cable and pull through, Then pull string back with new cable attached. As its a TD4 cant view lower catch from inside bonnet due to cooler. Really wish to avoid having to attempt to get bumper off as all wheel liner fixings corroded and the additional bumper lights (+ fog light) will need disconnecting and I fear opening a 'can of worms!' Any work around and advice would be appreciated. Thanks
