BECM Locked and in an alarm state

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I'm familiar with Turners. I did indeed do a becm for them, & then they kept emailing me for informnation so they can set up themselves. But i takes more than just software to specialize in these becm's.

There's no diagnostics system on the market that will access an alarmed becm.
& as for Turners removing the immobilser, impossible. They can only deactivate it.

I did hear that Turners charge £175 up front just to test a becm, & then another £100 or so if they need to do anything? Is this correct?

We charge nothing at all for testing.

Cammo45, disabling your immobiliser won't stop your becm from alarming up. Turner's, if worth any corn, should of advised you with regards to this, instead it sounds like they have just taken your money.
 
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Hi Datatek, all doors apart from drivers door are superlocked at the moment and I've got the battery off until I get my BeCM back on monday hopefully. The car is a 2000 model, does this have the updated RF receiver? I thought about disconnecting the blue aerial wire so that I can lock/unlock on the key and not bother with troublesome fobs. Many thanks.
 
Hi Rick-the-Pick, I haven't got my BeCM back yet, hope it arrives monday, I also had the immobiliser facility removed/deactivated from the ECU so I hope my immobiliser problems will be cured. Turners charged me £150 to test the BeCM and £24.50p postage, they said the BeCM had gone into lock out mode and they had removed it or deactivated it. Please send your contact details in case I need any more BeCM work doing. Thanks.
 
cammo45 said:
Hi Datatek, all doors apart from drivers door are superlocked at the moment and I've got the battery off until I get my BeCM back on monday hopefully. The car is a 2000 model, does this have the updated RF receiver? I thought about disconnecting the blue aerial wire so that I can lock/unlock on the key and not bother with troublesome fobs. Many thanks.
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No the receiver will not be the MK3 unless it's been changed.
You need the FOB working and the receiver connected or you will end up using the EKA code every time you want to get in.
 
Rick-the-Pick said:
I'm familiar with Turners. I did indeed do a becm for them, & then they kept emailing me for informnation so they can set up themselves. But i takes more than just software to specialize in these becm's.

There's no diagnostics system on the market that will access an alarmed becm.
& as for Turners removing the immobilser, impossible. They can only deactivate it.

I did hear that Turners charge £175 up front just to test a becm, & then another £100 or so if they need to do anything? Is this correct?

We charge nothing at all for testing.

Cammo45, disabling your immobiliser won't stop your becm from alarming up. Turner's, if worth any corn, should of advised you with regards to this, instead it sounds like they have just taken your money.
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Hi, All

Unless I have been misinformed, the Faultmate MSV02 does access an alarmed BECM, however only if you purchase the extra software at around 600 Euro's. So in effect if you bought one of these for your P38, you would be paying around £345.00 for the unit, around £180-£200 for P38 software, than another 600 Euro's for the special software feature to unlock a BECM in an alarmed State. Which Blackbox suggest, that if this is your problem you are better off sending your BECM away unless you can find someone near you with this extra feature and who's unit is not just limited to their own VIN number.

Also, when I was looking at what diagnostic tool to buy I kept getting confused with a BECM locked and in an alarmed state, and a BECM which was not recognising the EKA input from the key in the drivers door, so the alarm in the vehicle was going off. I know this sounds stupid... but I was getting confused but now I understand it means that if the BECM goes into a locked and alarmed state it means no diagnostic tool will read it unless the FAULTMATE-MSV-2 with extra software to unlock the BECM. Too expensive for me, but good deal I expect for someone in the business of fixing Rangies and who's chossing diagnostic software for multi vehicle licenses.

Thanks for all the responses though.

Regards

4x4P38
 
Hi 4x4p38, just to let you know I got my BeCM back the other day after having the immobiliser unlocked from it and my car started first time after being stood for 3 weeks. I also had the immobiliser facility removed from my ECU and fitted a mk 111 RF receiver so I should have no more immobiliser problems. A guy over the road from me has a weather station on his roof that operates on 433Mhz, the same frequency as a P38 immobiliser and I reckon thats been causing all my problems in the past. Hope this helps you, good luck.
 
cammo45 said:
Hi 4x4p38, just to let you know I got my BeCM back the other day after having the immobiliser unlocked from it and my car started first time after being stood for 3 weeks. I also had the immobiliser facility removed from my ECU and fitted a mk 111 RF receiver so I should have no more immobiliser problems. A guy over the road from me has a weather station on his roof that operates on 433Mhz, the same frequency as a P38 immobiliser and I reckon thats been causing all my problems in the past. Hope this helps you, good luck.
Click to expand...

Maybe wrong but don't think you can remove the immobiliser from the ECU. You can turn the immobiliser off but don't think you can remove it.
 
OK All, GREAT news.... it's better now. All thanks to Nanocom Evo.

After I took apart what I could of the passenger door trim to check latches and other stuff whilst it was closed and locked, then took apart the rest of my car in the meantime, Nothing worked. I suspect due to the really really cold icy weather. I honestly believe the door sensors were not working properly due to the weather. The ignition was frozen....as was the drivers door it was very cold. Nanocom plugged in, entered EKA code, didn't start but unlocked central locking and all doors unlocked and opened, engine tried to turnover but died due to flat battery, once I put the key in ignition and managed to turn it. Which was great.

So with renewed patience I input the key to the ignition and the left the drivers door open before removing the battery to charge overnight, thus doing something I don't know what , that stops the need to resync the key and having to enter the EKA once reconnecting the battery.

It worked......., got up early this morning, nice recharged battery and low and behold I did not need to re-enter the EKA code and she started like a dream. I just had to spend a couple of hours putting everything back together that I took apart...like door trim and other stuff.

Thanks for all the help guys. Hope this helps others in the same spot.

Regards

4x4P38
 
4x4P38 said:
OK All, GREAT news.... it's better now. All thanks to Nanocom Evo.

After I took apart what I could of the passenger door trim to check latches and other stuff whilst it was closed and locked, then took apart the rest of my car in the meantime, Nothing worked. I suspect due to the really really cold icy weather. I honestly believe the door sensors were not working properly due to the weather. The ignition was frozen....as was the drivers door it was very cold. Nanocom plugged in, entered EKA code, didn't start but unlocked central locking and all doors unlocked and opened, engine tried to turnover but died due to flat battery, once I put the key in ignition and managed to turn it. Which was great.

So with renewed patience I input the key to the ignition and the left the drivers door open before removing the battery to charge overnight, thus doing something I don't know what , that stops the need to resync the key and having to enter the EKA once reconnecting the battery.

It worked......., got up early this morning, nice recharged battery and low and behold I did not need to re-enter the EKA code and she started like a dream. I just had to spend a couple of hours putting everything back together that I took apart...like door trim and other stuff.

Thanks for all the help guys. Hope this helps others in the same spot.

Regards

4x4P38
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I have never had to use the EKA code on either of my P38's when removing and refitting the battery.
Glad you got it sorted.
 
Datatek said:
I have never had to use the EKA code on either of my P38's when removing and refitting the battery.
Glad you got it sorted.
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That's the thing, usually if I charge the battery, I have never had to enter the EKA code after reconnecting it, and I have owned this car nearly 9 years and never had this problem before which is why it stumped me. Mozz has helped about 80 people get started with a similar problem but unfortunately we were both stumped because everything we tired didn't work.

If ever I had to enter the code, like once when I had the Older RF responder Unit, it accepted the EKA code fine.

Like I said, the only thing I can think of is that it is severely cold where we are with nearly 2 foot of snow, so maybe that has effected it, plus the passenger door wouldn't unlock or open, the key wouldn't sync, the BECM would not accept the EKA code via the door. Maybe, if I could have waited for the weather to warm up, it would have been fine, but I couldn't wait as I needed this particular car for this weather.

So I am happy as larry that it's fine now. I would def. recommend P38's. The only down side is the amount of money you usually have to pay to main dealers to find out what is wrong, hence why now I think it's worth getting a good Diagnostic solution if you are going to keep the car and maybe buy another one. Otherwise perhaps not worth paying out the money.
 
I would recommend you buy a CTEK battery charger. This type of battery charger can be connected to the car without disconnecting the battery. And can be left on indefinately (not when driving) as it will never overcharge the battery.
Just do a GOOGLE and put in CTEK. Amazon have good prices and full description. I use an MXS 3.6 (3.6A) which is OK or you can go for a MXS 5.0 (5A) which I recommend if you can afford it. So easy to use and keeps the battery charged. Its a two (or one minute) job to connect or disconnect and you get going straight away. Just keep in the car. I always connect when not using the car for or a day or so, or overnight especially if I know I need the car. Gives an element of reliability the standard set up can't achieve. Just don't start the car with it connected.
ps I have no connection (pun intended) with this product or company. Just find its needed with a p38 or any other car.
 
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stopover said:
I would recommend you buy a CTEK battery charger. This type of battery charger can be connected to the car without disconnecting the battery. And can be left on indefinately (not when driving) as it will never overcharge the battery.
Just do a GOOGLE and put in CTEK. Amazon have good prices and full description. I use an MXS 3.6 (3.6A) which is OK or you can go for a MXS 5.0 (5A) which I recommend if you can afford it. So easy to use and keeps the battery charged. Its a two (or one minute) job to connect or disconnect and you get going straight away. Just keep in the car. I always connect when not using the car for or a day or so, or overnight especially if I know I need the car. Gives an element of reliability the standard set up can't achieve. Just don't start the car with it connected.
ps I have no connection (pun intended) with this product or company. Just find its needed with a p38 or any other car.
Click to expand...

CTEK are vastly overpriced, you can get a charger that will do the same job from Lidl for £15 from time to time and you can also find them on line.
 
struggling with the same thing, let me know how you resolve it, when entering code, watch through the window on the dash for the side lights on warning lamp, on mine this flashes with each turn of the key when entering code, I assume this means main computer receiving input from key (I may be wrong as I still cant get mine going)
 
deanbrandon said:
struggling with the same thing, let me know how you resolve it, when entering code, watch through the window on the dash for the side lights on warning lamp, on mine this flashes with each turn of the key when entering code, I assume this means main computer receiving input from key (I may be wrong as I still cant get mine going)
Click to expand...
Correct, but it doesn't mean you have the right code or have followed the correct proceedure.
 
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