Bankz's 110 Double Cab

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
lol yeah. No worries

Started with Cooper STT PRO at 285/75/16
- Excellent tyres off road and fine if youre not doing a lot of mway miles

Swapped to Cooper S/T Maxx 285/75/16
- Brilliant off road and excellent on road.
 
bankz5152 said:
I was under the impression TD5s didnt need to have it done, just 300tdis below!

Bought a new Lucas switch which is enroute!
Click to expand...

I stand to be corrected but I was under the impression that even the later ones didn't have them fitted and made do with better switches?

I fitted relays on my dipped and full beam on both sides for less than £20 in cable & 4 relays. You could enquire in the tratterin section to see if relays were at all fitted post 300Tdi? Either way a worthwhile investment for the sake of switches and the better light output from full power.
 
No relay in the headlamp circuit on any 90/110/Defender, from 1983 to 2016. Other than the one that turns them off when the ignition is off, but it doesn’t remove the load from the light switch.

I found the Boomslang loom poor quality and ended up changing for the Landreizger one which is far superior.
 
Wooo ive headlights again. New Lucas switch is certainly nice quality! Easy fit :D

Also long over due got an EGT gauge! Its only a cheap and small one but should do the job. Just got to check it will actually fit :confused::rolleyes: ideally want it just before the turbo so it can "see" the exhaust gas from all 5 cylinders. If not ill see if I can get a shorter probe or it will have to go in the EGR blank, not ideal I know but hey
 
Work let me use the nice metal chop saw to cut the TF ABar in half, worked out rather well. Got a nice clean straight cut ready for welding.

Also measured so I know umits 63.5mm with 4mm wall so quite meaty

20180713_175932.jpg


Needs roughly 2.5" of tube welded in to extend it, when its done it should fit quite nicely.

Plan is to use 3 M10s maybe 2 M12s and one M10 to hold it in place, will have to see when its done.

To be finished off in Buzzwelds FXLiner with x4 5" LED spot lights.

Now to find a day off work to get it all done....
 
Strange as the gasket hadnt blown or split o_O though gas was leaking around/through it from both sides.

Cleaned up the mating faces and fitted a new gasket with some hightemp sealant for good measure.

Also changed me brake pads as where getting a little low plus I cant stand the squeaking anymore!! Swapped to Ferrodo which have never squeaked before, along with new pins and springs.

Discs have a little light scoring so will replace those soon enough as well. Got some EBC slotted and vented discs en route for when I have some time! I know not 100% necessary but 80% of my driving is on "fast" country roads with a full load so I have had brake fade a few times and any better braking I can get the better.

Going to flush the system and replace with DOT5.1, after having a go in a mates 110 the brakes where considerably harder and more responsive which I like!
 
Last edited:
:mad::mad::mad:
STILL GOT SQEAKY BRAKES

So new discs going on asap.

Also to make the EGT Gauge fitting a lil easier im going to borrow a MagDrill from work :D Its basically a pillar drill with a super powerful electro magnet inside. Line it up and engage magnet!

Was thinking I should be able to sit it on the manifold, line it up and drill away. Also borrowing a mates Dormer tap to tap the hole for the EGT probe (which fits btw!)

Obvs ill unbolt the turbo, move it out the way and whip a hoover in the manifold get rid of any swarf
 
bankz5152 said:
:mad::mad::mad:
STILL GOT SQEAKY BRAKES

So new discs going on asap.

Also to make the EGT Gauge fitting a lil easier im going to borrow a MagDrill from work :D Its basically a pillar drill with a super powerful electro magnet inside. Line it up and engage magnet!

Was thinking I should be able to sit it on the manifold, line it up and drill away. Also borrowing a mates Dormer tap to tap the hole for the EGT probe (which fits btw!)

Obvs ill unbolt the turbo, move it out the way and whip a hoover in the manifold get rid of any swarf
Click to expand...


tried ceramic grease? tis wot I use squeak free!
Copper slip is abrasive (although I have used it on brakes for 30 yrs and no probs apart form squeakin o course!
 
I did soon as the package was open :oops::D

Hopefully get them fitted Tuesday, taking the day off to get my A Bar welded up, second half ill fit the discs. When thats done that will be the end of an accidental front axle rebuild :eek::rolleyes:

That said I doooo want HD Ashcroft CVs and shafts :rolleyes::rolleyes: no money for those though :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Pillar
Defender 110 REMOVE: 110 Double Cab Canopy
Replies
3
Views
1K
doriz
doriz
S
110 Project
2
Replies
38
Views
2K
SimonBrown
S
G
Small Holes in the Load Bay of Defender 110 Double-Cab
Replies
5
Views
684
dag019
dag019
DuckSherminator
1952 80" Rover V8
Replies
5
Views
633
Hicap phill
H
S
Defender 90/110 Rear Brakes
Replies
8
Views
827
tottot
tottot
Back
Top