110 Project

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With the floor up the R380 serial number is much easier to read.

Its prefix is 68A with a suffix of L.

Which, I think, means its a long stick originally fitted to a Defender. This may guide future choices for an engine swap...some may be easier than others.
And no, the V8 (as much as I love em) is not on the list.
 
my compliments for the project! As an engine to have a simple thing you could use the BMW M51D25 of the P38, also mounted on the E39 525tds, using the gearbox bell of the P38 for the R380. This engine was born with an electronic FIP and an ECU, but you could eliminate them using the mechanical FIP of the 524tds. Of 4 cylinders without ecu the Toyota 1KZ, Nissan BD30 and TD27 (immortal with timing gears) are valid but you will need an adaptation flange
 
Removing the lh wing has proved...problematic. The snorkel is right in the way of the bulkhead bolts, and to remove that means the heater box is coming out.
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So that little project was parked until I could create a 3D record of the as-is of the engine bay. Its an aide memoire for when stuff has to go back together. 169 stereo images and some processing later the model was ready:
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And a link if anyone fancies a look around the engine bay is here:

Link to 3D model

The grandson arrived this weekend so wing removal was put on hold for other tasks. Like getting to know a Land Rover:
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And getting the mud out from under the footwell:
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Handy to have a small person for such tasks.

The eldest nipper then set about stripping the wooden liner and cubby holes fitted to the rear by the previous owner.
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Which exposed a snakes wedding of wiring:
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In spite of that mess, it all works...
Then we turned to getting the bullet resistant locker out. In the end the not-asking tool was applied:
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As it refused to just cooperate.
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Its a solid 3mm steel construction. And it consumed 4 slitting wheels. Hardcore resistance now destined for the scrap bin.

Which leaves a large hole in the tub:
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I am wondering what to do here. Invest time in patching...or cut the losses and find a replacement?

Going to kick this one down the road for a bit and see what the rest of the tub is like.

Any and all thoughts on this are most welcome. So would be hearing from anyone with a decent 110 tub looking for a new life in West Dorset...
 

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An hour spent before dinner last night saw the wayward electrical wiring examined...

Its not pretty:
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The horn wiring seems to transit the engine bay via lh wing, cable clips in front of rad, rh wing...back into the engine bay and onto the air horn compressor. The heater fan is currently inop and I'm not sure the choc strip wiring block is helping.

On the plus side there has been liberal use of self adhesive sealing tape and most of it still works. Which is a good starting point.

One key decision; wherever possible connectors will be replaced with Deutsch automotive types. Should keep the sparky gremlins at bay.

Second key decision; wherever possible a rivnut is going to replace every frigging difficult to access bolt or nut.

Both should make the world under the bonnet a better place in time.
 
The rh wing gave up the battle and is now off. The bulkhead is still looking OK for some small repairs, a strip & galvanise and refit.

The lower steering UJ was knocking and an MOT failure, but turns out it was not clamped tight enough on the steering box shaft...but thats a minor point.
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And then onto the most irrelevant job...the rivnut setter tool and rivnuts arrived today. It was impossible to resist having a go...and the washer bottle bracket was just gagging to have those original captive nuts removed:

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Never mind the rest of it looks awful...the rivnuts look good.
 
The wings are finally off. Time for another 3D model and record of as-is:

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Link to the 3D model is here:
3D Model of engine bay

There is a special corner of hell reserved for the person who thought bolting the outer wings on was a great idea. I have a theory that somewhere in Solihull there is a special spanner crafted by the fellow tasked with assembly to make this job easier.

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With the inner wings off everything is going to get a pressure wash to shift the years of muck.
 
A few more hours devoted to the Landy. Some of the under bonnet bracketry as a "patina" of rust. Never tried it before so thoought I would try the electroysis method of getting rid of the metal moth. Well, no so much get rid of it but convert it to something else.

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A big tub with a washing soda solution, a scrificial piece of iron (a nail), a 12v battery and a battery charger. I think the battery charger is one of these supposedly clever ones that can detect if its being put to other uses than charging a battery...so mayne the battery might be unecessary...either way, its working now.

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Important bit - the + side of things needs to be on the sacraficial nail...otherwise I am told the bits you want fizz away.

I set it running and sure enough a steady stream of bubbles started fizzing around the nail.

While the electrolysis did its thing the front bumper was removed. Its the worst bit of rust on the chassis so far and none of the bolts were actually holding it on - they all came out without unthreading.

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Not sure just how bad this is?

The doors were next. Passenger side came off a breeze and for the first time there was evidence of copper slip on the hinge screws:
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The drivers side was...more interesing. The screws refused to budge on the lower hinge, eventually rounding off the heads:
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So a bit of progressive drilling resolved that one. Leaving two now headless screws sticking out:

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The pillar this side is fill of crud. Does not bode well, but so far the bulkhead is looking good and once a few known issues patched will be worth galvanising I think.

Back to the electrolysis bath. I had added two more nails and the water was going a proper Irn-Bru colour:

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I will leave it overnight and see how its all worked in the morning.
 

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An hour spent before dinner last night saw the wayward electrical wiring examined...

Its not pretty:
View attachment 335317

The horn wiring seems to transit the engine bay via lh wing, cable clips in front of rad, rh wing...back into the engine bay and onto the air horn compressor. The heater fan is currently inop and I'm not sure the choc strip wiring block is helping.

On the plus side there has been liberal use of self adhesive sealing tape and most of it still works. Which is a good starting point.

One key decision; wherever possible connectors will be replaced with Deutsch automotive types. Should keep the sparky gremlins at bay.

Second key decision; wherever possible a rivnut is going to replace every frigging difficult to access bolt or nut.

Both should make the world under the bonnet a better place in time.

Check to see if the green goo has crept into the wiring, or you will have to knit a new loom ...
 
Check to see if the green goo has crept into the wiring, or you will have to knit a new loom ...
So far...everything electrical except the heater fan has worked. This includes the glow plug preheat on the Iszuz.

But...like a lot of vehicles approaching its 40th birthday there are a lot of "terminate in fresh air" connectors and unknown wiring.

Plan is to get it back to stock and follow the OOTB wiring diagram. Or document anything not conforming.
 
A visit to the Irn-Bru production facility this morning showed the process had worked:

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It looks grim but the nails have done their job:

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And the rusty bits now have a black finish:

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It does not eliminate any mechanical clean, but sorts the rust beforehand and should give the acid etch and paint a good chance.
 
Alloy rivnuts turned up and have been fitted to the outer wing:
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And the Deutsch electrical connectors and crimp tool arrived:
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Which is an improvement over those awful bullet connectors fitted as standard.

The RH wing is in a worse state than the left and disassembly has been designed to be a right PITA.

Question posed in the 90/110 section.
 
Will them rivnuts leave a big gap in the wing joint?
I did think about a) using countersunk rivnuts (not really enough thickness) or b) forgetting rivnuts and revert to nut & bolt.

But I decided a small gap, on a panel that cannot be described as A class or straight, as something to live with for making future disassembly easier.

If it looks awful...a bead of seam sealer will hide many sins.
 
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