Bankzs 110 CSW XS Build

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Right so. Fresh head. Fresh day.

Nipped up every nut/union on the clutch.

Bled another 500ml through.

No change.

Adjusted the pedal so the nyloc is only about half on (now secured with loctite). Success! Easy gear changes and i can drive.

Seems bizzar that for what ever reason I need that extra bit of pull to disengage without any other changes.

Now to sort headlight aim.

Not only that its developed some kind of very unsettling wobbling when driving. Akin to when you get a high wind over a bridge, but its calm and im doing 40 on the road with no wind. Its very disconcerting
 
Right so. Fresh head. Fresh day.

Nipped up every nut/union on the clutch.

Bled another 500ml through.

No change.

Adjusted the pedal so the nyloc is only about half on (now secured with loctite). Success! Easy gear changes and i can drive.

Seems bizzar that for what ever reason I need that extra bit of pull to disengage without any other changes.

Now to sort headlight aim.

Not only that its developed some kind of very unsettling wobbling when driving. Akin to when you get a high wind over a bridge, but its calm and im doing 40 on the road with no wind. Its very disconcerting
Panard rod bush for the wobble?
You using poly bush or OEM bush?
 
All Superpro. All less than a year old.
check panard arm… I had super pro in that & change to oem. All other pro bushes were fine. (Easy way,stand outside motor with engine running and twitch the steering left/right. See if the body work moves)

And check drop arm nut…same as above it will jump if ball joint has gone. (Have you done the disco drop arm conversion?)
 
Not to hijack mate but I’ve a similar thing on my D1. It’s like you have to keep hold of wheel at all times. It’ll do it worse when you come out of a dip or pothole. Like you say, feels like it gets blown by gust of wind and makes my arse cheeks clench 😂
 
check panard arm… I had super pro in that & change to oem. All other pro bushes were fine. (Easy way,stand outside motor with engine running and twitch the steering left/right. See if the body work moves)

And check drop arm nut…same as above it will jump if ball joint has gone. (Have you done the disco drop arm conversion?)


Ahh ok, ill check that.

Did the disco drop arm conversation, tightened to correct torque, driven for 3 weeks and retorqued. It could be ill check again.
 
Thought id fixed the clutch issues but no.

Test drive friday no problems at all.

Drove home last night absolutely spot on, best its ever been.

Drove to work today only just got to work, its at the point now if its in gear with the pedal down it moves on its own!

Ordered a new master slave and copper washers. This will be the third of both this year!
 
Took some time today to strip the master and slave off.

I always forget how easy it is to remove the pedal box....

Found a couple issues

Washer on the master is slightly deformed but its very minor

20241121_170600.jpg


The nyloc on the master was also touching the pedal box which doesnt seem right to me

20241121_161437.jpg


Last one, took the slave off and the piston basically fell out. Never had that before!

Dont know which has failed as they both appear fine just some minor issues.

Also got new copper washers for the clutching union bits.

New parts going in tomorrow, hopefully fixed...
 
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