Freelander 1 Auto 1.8

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Have you figured how much space you will have for the IRD yet? IIRC the Tie bar bolts to the engine and IRD but will your IRD be in a different position with the Auto box? Maybe just make up a new bracket to replicate the original.
 
as I'm using a V6 Freelander transmission with the V6 transmission mount, the gearbox and IRD will be exactly where they are in a V6.
Like an idiot I assumed that this would put the IRD in the same place as it is on a K series, but it isn't.
Concerning engine to IRD alignment I have a couple of photos of the mounting plate. This is a modified K series bracket.
It puts the engine something like 20mm higher and 4 or 5mm further to the right, compared to the IRD:-
20241023_131652.JPG


20241023_140640.JPG


but then I now find that the IRD isn't in the same place as the K series.

So the engine placement is now however far the V6 IRD is different to the K series, plus another 20mm higher and another 5mm or so to the right.

Fortunately, I think I will get away with it.
 
Has anyone here ever rebuilt an IRD? I just broke the casing of my 1.8 so I'll have to rehouse the internals into another one, probably the one from our old crashed TD4 that sat in the back garden for two years (just the IRD, not the car).
 
pscan.eu said:
Has anyone here ever rebuilt an IRD? I just broke the casing of my 1.8 so I'll have to rehouse the internals into another one, probably the one from our old crashed TD4 that sat in the back garden for two years (just the IRD, not the car).
Click to expand...
Alibro said:
I think @GrumpyGel has done a lot of work on his.
Click to expand...
TBH, I extracted the IRD, bought a rebuild kit... and handed it over to a diff shop to do all the pulling and pushing of bearings.

So, other than splitting the casing, I haven't experience of what's inside it.

Are they different? Can't you just use the one off the TD4?

I know mounting brackets are different, but I assumed that was due to the engine, not the IRD.

If the casings are different but you can swap the internals over, I believe 1 problem may be that you have to remove the cooler to release 1 of the shafts - or at least you have to remove the cooler to replace 1 of the bearings. While I was waiting for the kit to arrive, I tried to remove the cooler and it was a dickens of a job. Gave up and let the shop do it, there was a replacement in the kit, but you may need to get hold of 1.

You'll probably need to replace seals and I think the diff shop said they needed to source some shims as well.
 
this is what I broke
20241102_145956.JPG

Ashtrans aren't that far from me (less than one hour drive). I might ask them to rebuild it for me.
 
I did achieve a couple of things yesterday. There is a metal coolant pipe across the back of the engine which hits the Jatco transmission because it's taller and has the starter motor on the top.
I heated it up and bent it up a couple of cm and now it fits:-
20241102_135124.JPG


also I got the drivers side engine mount on (with about 6cm cut off, raising the engine by that amount). The engine is now a lot nearer to the inner wing, but at least it fits. I'll have to modify the exhaust and the bottom engine mount but I don't think that'll be a problem:-
20241102_151052.JPG


if the engine had been 1cm longer I would have been in trouble
 
The bottom engine mounts are very different.
V6 on the left, K1.8 on the right:-
20241101_184409.JPG


in terms of fore and aft the hole that bolts to the subframe looks about the same. The IRD looks like it sits a little higher on the V6, but the 1.8 arm is so long I don't think that will be a problem. What you can't see in this photo is that the IRD, compared to the subframe is maybe 10 or 12mm further to the right. I think that bolting the arm directly to the adapter/steady plate gets it to about the right place. I can make a bit of flat plate off of the sump to the other side of it.
 
Forgive me if this is a stupid question cause I don't know much about Auto gearboxes but have you figured out what rpm the torque converter will tighten up and send drive to the gearbox?
I'm not even sure if any of that makes sense but hopefully you know what I mean.

Reason I ask is it just occurred a few years ago I had a Skoda Octavia with a DSG gearbox and it was hopeless pulling away on a hill until the turbo finally kicked in. I know they are completely different gearboxes but as much as I love the K series it is a revvy engine that doesn't have much torque.
It wouldn't be nice to go to all this work to discover the car can't pull away on a hill.

I hope this is a stupid question but I thought it worth asking
 
Alibro said:
Forgive me if this is a stupid question cause I don't know much about Auto gearboxes but have you figured out what rpm the torque converter will tighten up and send drive to the gearbox?
I'm not even sure if any of that makes sense but hopefully you know what I mean.

Reason I ask is it just occurred a few years ago I had a Skoda Octavia with a DSG gearbox and it was hopeless pulling away on a hill until the turbo finally kicked in. I know they are completely different gearboxes but as much as I love the K series it is a revvy engine that doesn't have much torque.
It wouldn't be nice to go to all this work to discover the car can't pull away on a hill.

I hope this is a stupid question but I thought it worth asking
Click to expand...

I don't know the specific answer, but, it is part of the reason that I want to stick with a 1.8 K series IRD as it gives the lowest gear ratios possible, which will help. It should be geared about 8% lower than the V6.
 
pscan.eu said:
according to this post https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/final-drive-ratio.199952/

the ratios are:-
Td4 engine with manual gearbox 3.182 : 1
Td4 engine with automatic gearbox 2.91 : 1
K1.8 engine 4.200 : 1
KV6 engine 3.66 : 1

so, only a K1.8 IRD will match my rear diff. Also it's the highest reduction ratio available which is what I need for a 1.8 that never goes on fast roads.
Click to expand...
Those gear ratios, I'm sure, relate to the final drive ratio in the gearbox.

The IRDs are the same.

Look at the 2nd post in that thread.

I think that inside those gearboxes, where a diff might go in a 2WD implementation, there is a final drive gearing bringing the output down to the speeds that the IRD/prop/rear diff work with.

Please double check this though.
 
GrumpyGel said:
Those gear ratios, I'm sure, relate to the final drive ratio in the gearbox.

The IRDs are the same.

Look at the 2nd post in that thread.

I think that inside those gearboxes, where a diff might go in a 2WD implementation, there is a final drive gearing bringing the output down to the speeds that the IRD/prop/rear diff work with.

Please double check this though.
Click to expand...

This post suggests that different IRDs have different ratios: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...l-v6-in-a-1-8l-freelander.220935/post-2629662
 
although in that post he says "From 3500rpm @ barely 120kph, i can now comfortably do 140kph at 4000rpm".

Well, 120 / 3500 X 4000 = 137. hmm
 
pscan.eu said:
This post suggests that different IRDs have different ratios: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...l-v6-in-a-1-8l-freelander.220935/post-2629662
Click to expand...
Is the broken case IRD still in a condition that you can turn the input shaft by hand and it will turn the rear pinion?

If so, make 10 turns on the input shaft and count how many times the rear pinion turns. Then do the same with the TD4 IRD. The difference between a 4.2:1 and a 3:1 ratio would be very noticeable.

My feeling is they will turn the same, at what ever ratio the IRD pinion is geared at to the input shaft.
 
pscan.eu said:
I don't know the specific answer, but, it is part of the reason that I want to stick with a 1.8 K series IRD as it gives the lowest gear ratios possible, which will help. It should be geared about 8% lower than the V6.
Click to expand...
When I was converting my car to EV I had no clue how successful it would be or how powerful or practical. I was doing it for the fun and challenge so I totally get what you are doing. Thanks for keeping at this.
 
I've been offered a known good IRD from a facelift 1.8 for £125. I might just grab it to save hassle.
 
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