Alibro
Well-Known Member
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- Northern Ireland
Sounds like daylight robbery. The scrappies are full of dead K series FL1's
Offer them £50. They should take your hand off for it
Freelander 1 Auto 1.8
- Thread starter andyfreelandy
- Start date
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Offer them £50. They should take your hand off for it
Quite the distance but I saw some guy on Ebay offering a "good" IRD from a post facelift for £75 as I bought an engine from them to tear down but didn't want the IRD... In Manchester
This is the one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31564084...WNTWK9&hash=item497da902d2:g:xBMAAOSwnLRmqeL3
be careful though, I cannot be sure on their reliability or even if it works to begin with
be careful though, I cannot be sure on their reliability or even if it works to begin with
thanks, but it's worth it to pay £50 more to get one from someone that I trust who's only a 20 minute drive from me, and I need some other parts off him as well.
The engine has moved nearer to the right inner wing a fair bit
which has pushed the A/C compressor quite near to some metal
but it's not actually touching. If anyone has a 1.8 with A/C please post a picture of how the compressor pulley looks compared to the shell.
which has pushed the A/C compressor quite near to some metal
but it's not actually touching. If anyone has a 1.8 with A/C please post a picture of how the compressor pulley looks compared to the shell.
Could use the pre 2001 thermostat that sits in the back of the engine instead?
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maybe, but I think it's easier just to get some spare hoses and cut them up to move things where I need them.
If I turn the bottom hose the other way around, so the corner nearer to the rad and further from the thermost, and can kind of force it all to fit. The reason for this distortion is that the metal pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox had to be bent up a couple of centimetres.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
also, I have no idea how to correctly plumb in the transmission cooler. There's no diagram of the V6 cooling system in the Haynes manual, and I don't really understand how the external thermostat arrangement works. The pipe diameter looks somewhat similar to the hoses that go to the heater matrix, but, does water still go through the heater matrix when the heater controls are set to full cold? Also I guess that a heater matrix is supposed to receive hot water from the engine, whilst, I suppose that I want the transmission cooler to get cold water from the bottom of the radiator?
Should I be splitting the bottom rad into two smaller ones with one path going through the trans cooler, and then rejoining them before feeding into the thermostat? But then that wouldn't help it warm up would it, because nothing goes through the rad until the thermostat opens?
Should I be splitting the bottom rad into two smaller ones with one path going through the trans cooler, and then rejoining them before feeding into the thermostat? But then that wouldn't help it warm up would it, because nothing goes through the rad until the thermostat opens?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
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- 7,291
- Location
- Northern Ireland
If I turn the bottom hose the other way around, so the corner nearer to the rad and further from the thermost, and can kind of force it all to fit. The reason for this distortion is that the metal pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox had to be bent up a couple of centimetres.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
Sorry I can't answer any of your questions but I have this if it is any help.
I bought it years ago for either an MGF or a K series FL1 but can't remember which. Either way if you can use it your welcome to it.
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I spent a few hours on wiring this weekend.
I separated this:-
from this
so basically I now have a stand-alone automatic wiring loom that I can integrate into the 1.8 K series loom.
Today I went through every wire, found it on the wiring diagrams and labelled them up.
I am going to have to unpin the wires that go to the gear selector and illuminated indicator things because the plugs will be too big to get through the bulkhead, and then repin them on the other side.
I separated this:-
from this
so basically I now have a stand-alone automatic wiring loom that I can integrate into the 1.8 K series loom.
Today I went through every wire, found it on the wiring diagrams and labelled them up.
I am going to have to unpin the wires that go to the gear selector and illuminated indicator things because the plugs will be too big to get through the bulkhead, and then repin them on the other side.
The vehicle I got the transmission (and this loom) from had had the interior already taken by someone else. Anything connected to seats or trim had already been chopped off. Fortunately for me they only took one connector that I need (to the shift solenoid lock), but I don't think it will have anything that helps you.If you have heated seat wiring in that discarded birds nest, I'd be interested!
I haven't reported on progress for a while. I have been mad busy making progress.......
The exhaust is now extended, on and seems to work well.
The cooling system is now finished, but I have a leak somewhere on the back of the engine. I'm suspecting that the metal cross pipe to the water pump joint didn't survive removal / refitting.
I have spent most of this week finishing the transmission wiring.
I wasted nearly a day because Jatco ECU and all of the associated bits were powering up with ignition on, but remaining powered up when the ignition is turned off.
This is because I am powering the gearbox and ECU from the "main relay" which is actually controlled by the engine ECU, and it keeps that main relay powered for upto 15 minutes after engine shutdown for "emissions reasons" such the purge valve.
Anyway, I went back to the Rover 75 wiring diagrams and that's exactly how the gearbox ECU on an auto 75 is powered (it stays powered on with the emissions stuff).
I still need to wire in my own custom cooling fan controller and a Rover 75 A/C trinary switch.
I have one wiring problem left which is that the Auto ECU is supposed to be able to suppress the starter motor. It does this with a wire from the Jatco ECU to the immobiliser, but that isn't working (it will start in any gear). My suspicion is that the autos must have a different config on the immobiliser ECU, which I'm not going to touch, so I will have to "proxy" the starter motor wire through my own relay off of the Jatco output.
The engine runs quite nicely, but with some subtle but odd noises.
There is a bit of an odd scraping noise from the accessory / timing belt end above 2000rpm which I need to fault find.
The gearbox sometimes makes odd gurgling noises after startup, which I assume is air trapped somewhere it shouldn't be.
I also have an intermittent misfire on one cylinder.
The exhaust is now extended, on and seems to work well.
The cooling system is now finished, but I have a leak somewhere on the back of the engine. I'm suspecting that the metal cross pipe to the water pump joint didn't survive removal / refitting.
I have spent most of this week finishing the transmission wiring.
I wasted nearly a day because Jatco ECU and all of the associated bits were powering up with ignition on, but remaining powered up when the ignition is turned off.
This is because I am powering the gearbox and ECU from the "main relay" which is actually controlled by the engine ECU, and it keeps that main relay powered for upto 15 minutes after engine shutdown for "emissions reasons" such the purge valve.
Anyway, I went back to the Rover 75 wiring diagrams and that's exactly how the gearbox ECU on an auto 75 is powered (it stays powered on with the emissions stuff).
I still need to wire in my own custom cooling fan controller and a Rover 75 A/C trinary switch.
I have one wiring problem left which is that the Auto ECU is supposed to be able to suppress the starter motor. It does this with a wire from the Jatco ECU to the immobiliser, but that isn't working (it will start in any gear). My suspicion is that the autos must have a different config on the immobiliser ECU, which I'm not going to touch, so I will have to "proxy" the starter motor wire through my own relay off of the Jatco output.
The engine runs quite nicely, but with some subtle but odd noises.
There is a bit of an odd scraping noise from the accessory / timing belt end above 2000rpm which I need to fault find.
The gearbox sometimes makes odd gurgling noises after startup, which I assume is air trapped somewhere it shouldn't be.
I also have an intermittent misfire on one cylinder.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
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- Devon
For the starter inhibit in gears other than Park and Neutral, the V6 uses a white wire from the auto box to the Immob ECU.
Now, the Immob ECU prevents cranking when the ignition key chip is incorrect too and also requires a key chip match to the Immob ECU and the Engine ECU.
Have you retained the key chip and Immob ECU as originally designed or bypassed any of it?
Just wondering if any mods have eliminated the Immob ECUs ability to prevent cranking. It does this by breaking the feed to the starter relay.
I guess the white wire provides a feed or 0V only when in Neutral or Park, If this is true then an additional relay in the starter relay path controlled by this wire would solve the problem.
Now, the Immob ECU prevents cranking when the ignition key chip is incorrect too and also requires a key chip match to the Immob ECU and the Engine ECU.
Have you retained the key chip and Immob ECU as originally designed or bypassed any of it?
Just wondering if any mods have eliminated the Immob ECUs ability to prevent cranking. It does this by breaking the feed to the starter relay.
I guess the white wire provides a feed or 0V only when in Neutral or Park, If this is true then an additional relay in the starter relay path controlled by this wire would solve the problem.
