Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,211
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Sounds like daylight robbery. The scrappies are full of dead K series FL1's
Offer them £50. They should take your hand off for it
Freelander 1 Auto 1.8
- Thread starter andyfreelandy
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Offer them £50. They should take your hand off for it
Quite the distance but I saw some guy on Ebay offering a "good" IRD from a post facelift for £75 as I bought an engine from them to tear down but didn't want the IRD... In Manchester
This is the one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/31564084...WNTWK9&hash=item497da902d2:g:xBMAAOSwnLRmqeL3
be careful though, I cannot be sure on their reliability or even if it works to begin with
be careful though, I cannot be sure on their reliability or even if it works to begin with
thanks, but it's worth it to pay £50 more to get one from someone that I trust who's only a 20 minute drive from me, and I need some other parts off him as well.
The engine has moved nearer to the right inner wing a fair bit
which has pushed the A/C compressor quite near to some metal
but it's not actually touching. If anyone has a 1.8 with A/C please post a picture of how the compressor pulley looks compared to the shell.
which has pushed the A/C compressor quite near to some metal
but it's not actually touching. If anyone has a 1.8 with A/C please post a picture of how the compressor pulley looks compared to the shell.
Could use the pre 2001 thermostat that sits in the back of the engine instead?
Last edited:
maybe, but I think it's easier just to get some spare hoses and cut them up to move things where I need them.
If I turn the bottom hose the other way around, so the corner nearer to the rad and further from the thermost, and can kind of force it all to fit. The reason for this distortion is that the metal pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox had to be bent up a couple of centimetres.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
also, I have no idea how to correctly plumb in the transmission cooler. There's no diagram of the V6 cooling system in the Haynes manual, and I don't really understand how the external thermostat arrangement works. The pipe diameter looks somewhat similar to the hoses that go to the heater matrix, but, does water still go through the heater matrix when the heater controls are set to full cold? Also I guess that a heater matrix is supposed to receive hot water from the engine, whilst, I suppose that I want the transmission cooler to get cold water from the bottom of the radiator?
Should I be splitting the bottom rad into two smaller ones with one path going through the trans cooler, and then rejoining them before feeding into the thermostat? But then that wouldn't help it warm up would it, because nothing goes through the rad until the thermostat opens?
Should I be splitting the bottom rad into two smaller ones with one path going through the trans cooler, and then rejoining them before feeding into the thermostat? But then that wouldn't help it warm up would it, because nothing goes through the rad until the thermostat opens?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,211
- Location
- Northern Ireland
If I turn the bottom hose the other way around, so the corner nearer to the rad and further from the thermost, and can kind of force it all to fit. The reason for this distortion is that the metal pipe that goes over the top of the gearbox had to be bent up a couple of centimetres.
this might be good enough just to start the engine maybe a short test drive, but I can't leave it like that.
This is how the transmission cooler sits
If anyone with a V6 could confirm if I have the pipes the right way round?
The mounting bracket will need modification though because it bolts to an engine that's no longer there. It would have been easier to fabricate with an engine / transmission on the floor but I didn't realise.
Sorry I can't answer any of your questions but I have this if it is any help.
I bought it years ago for either an MGF or a K series FL1 but can't remember which. Either way if you can use it your welcome to it.
Last edited:
