Freelander 1 Auto 1.8

andyfreelandy said:

For the starter inhibit in gears other than Park and Neutral, the V6 uses a white wire from the auto box to the Immob ECU.

Now, the Immob ECU prevents cranking when the ignition key chip is incorrect too and also requires a key chip match to the Immob ECU and the Engine ECU.

Have you retained the key chip and Immob ECU as originally designed or bypassed any of it?

Just wondering if any mods have eliminated the Immob ECUs ability to prevent cranking. It does this by breaking the feed to the starter relay.

I guess the white wire provides a feed or 0V only when in Neutral or Park, If this is true then an additional relay in the starter relay path controlled by this wire would solve the problem.

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pscan.eu said:

I haven't reported on progress for a while. I have been mad busy making progress.......

The exhaust is now extended, on and seems to work well.
The cooling system is now finished, but I have a leak somewhere on the back of the engine. I'm suspecting that the metal cross pipe to the water pump joint didn't survive removal / refitting.
I have spent most of this week finishing the transmission wiring.
I wasted nearly a day because Jatco ECU and all of the associated bits were powering up with ignition on, but remaining powered up when the ignition is turned off.
This is because I am powering the gearbox and ECU from the "main relay" which is actually controlled by the engine ECU, and it keeps that main relay powered for upto 15 minutes after engine shutdown for "emissions reasons" such the purge valve.
Anyway, I went back to the Rover 75 wiring diagrams and that's exactly how the gearbox ECU on an auto 75 is powered (it stays powered on with the emissions stuff).
I still need to wire in my own custom cooling fan controller and a Rover 75 A/C trinary switch.
I have one wiring problem left which is that the Auto ECU is supposed to be able to suppress the starter motor. It does this with a wire from the Jatco ECU to the immobiliser, but that isn't working (it will start in any gear). My suspicion is that the autos must have a different config on the immobiliser ECU, which I'm not going to touch, so I will have to "proxy" the starter motor wire through my own relay off of the Jatco output.
The engine runs quite nicely, but with some subtle but odd noises.
There is a bit of an odd scraping noise from the accessory / timing belt end above 2000rpm which I need to fault find.
The gearbox sometimes makes odd gurgling noises after startup, which I assume is air trapped somewhere it shouldn't be.
I also have an intermittent misfire on one cylinder.

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pscan.eu said:

It isn't changing whatever I do with the gear selector. I think they must be coded to manual or auto.

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andyfreelandy said:

But the gearbox feed isn't changing so the immobiliser ecu won't do either.

Check you have both sides of the gearbox inhibit switch wired OK. Looks like one side is ground and the other to the immobiliser ecu.

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