ALRC Project

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Phew, the pattern poped out of the rear cover mold after a bit of a struggle and all is ok which is a good job because the pattern is busted up.
I'm of work this week and ordered some materials for next day delivery (UKmail) which only turned up today after ringing them over and over for 3 days :mad:
So I have started the layup of the right hand wing mold. The green is tooling gel coat which is harder than normal gel coat and makes a better tool. The rear cover mold will only be used a few times but the wing molds will be used many times so it's worth the extra cost.



 
Morning all. I have finished laying up the outer part of the right hand wing and removed the flanges ready to do the inner parts, so when done the mould will be 3 parts that bolt together. I am now waxing 10 coats on the inner and while it is drying I have put the flanges around the left hand wing and started waxing that. This composite lark is a slow process and lots of work, I will be glad to get past it and back to working directly on the vehicle.
I have managed to do one of the rear check straps, through I am trying not to make too much dust.



 
Well I now have a mold for the drivers side wing, as said before it is a three piece mold and in the pic there is just two parts bolted together. It looks very good, nice clean finish and no distortion so I should be able to make some smart wings. :D

 
yes I am pleased with the result but I still don't like fiberglassing. My biggest fear is parts sticking in the mold, I have had a few patches stick and pull the pattern coat primer off the pattern. All these patches came off the molds with a wood chisel as in they weren't bonded to the mold after which the mold polished up ok.
I am hoping it was just the primer not sticking to the MDF patterns but the patches were well stuck to the molds even after 10 coats of proper mold wax and 5 coats of PVA release agent.
Apparantly after the molds have been used a few times there is less chance of the part sticking.
I think that another thing bugging me is I have spent months making mold tools during which time I haven't been working on the car, normal service should resume soon though.
 
Ok I have made the rear cover and the floor section between the seats, they haven't come out as good as I had hoped as there are air bubles in the gel coat but on the plus side they are light weight and strong. Some of the bits I cut off i put in the vice and bent them till they broke and it took some doing which must be the E glass and Diolen.
Also the floor section doesn't fit yet because after I had fitted the air filters the gear stick was too close to them so I moved the gear lever mech back and now it fouls the floor. Looking at it, if I lower the lever about 15mm all will be ok.
When I paint the body I will also paint the panels, I think the only way to get a perfect finish out of the mold is to Vaccuum bag, I do have a vac pump but I don't think I will bother unless I have to make new panels because of damage.



 
Really coming together now, its looking awsome. I never cease to be impressed by the standard of the work and design.

What will the engine cowl be made of ? Or have you yet to design that?
 
I can't face making another pattern just yet so it may be alloy for now although a metal one will make scrutineering easier.
Tomorrow I am going over to a mates to use his 3mtr pressbrake to fold up the body cappings and I will talk to hime about TIG welding an engine cover.
 
Question

For the rear rad I have the vanes covered with plate that i used to mount the fan but the outer parts are standard and uncovered, to they have to be covered too, and I take it the header tank has to be covered too ?
 
C.9. RADIATORS & PLUMBING.
C.9.1. The radiator may be fitted in any suitable location within the confines of the original silhouette. Coolant hoses and pipework may be re-routed but must be separated from the driver / passenger compartment by means of lagging (if metal pipework) and a solid metal cover (if rubber pipework) to protect all persons including marshals and spectators.
C.9.2. All pipework, header tanks etc. shall be covered to protect occupants, marshals and spectators should any part of the cooling system fail and cause water or steam to escape.
C.9.3. The radiator shall be shielded from the driver / passenger compartment regardless of its location. Louvre vents are acceptable as radiator shielding.
C.9.4. The cooling fan(s) must be protected by a grille, louvre or similar.
 
jai_landrover said:
C.9. RADIATORS & PLUMBING.
C.9.1. The radiator may be fitted in any suitable location within the confines of the original silhouette. Coolant hoses and pipework may be re-routed but must be separated from the driver / passenger compartment by means of lagging (if metal pipework) and a solid metal cover (if rubber pipework) to protect all persons including marshals and spectators.
C.9.2. All pipework, header tanks etc. shall be covered to protect occupants, marshals and spectators should any part of the cooling system fail and cause water or steam to escape.
C.9.3. The radiator shall be shielded from the driver / passenger compartment regardless of its location. Louvre vents are acceptable as radiator shielding.
C.9.4. The cooling fan(s) must be protected by a grille, louvre or similar.
Click to expand...


Thats what I thought. 9.2 holds me up, ill have to make an aly cover I think for the whole thing :/

Im protected fine as theres the tub / cab inbetween and all the pipes are underneith so sheilded by floor buf theyre exposed at the back aswell as the header tank :(
 
200tdi ayre said:
Thats what I thought. 9.2 holds me up, ill have to make an aly cover I think for the whole thing :/

Im protected fine as theres the tub / cab inbetween and all the pipes are underneith so sheilded by floor buf theyre exposed at the back aswell as the header tank :(
Click to expand...

Just curious if you have a cab how are you getting air into the rad.
 
discomark10 said:
You might finnd it gets hot on motorways, only place mines does due to lack of air flowing and high consistant loads.
Click to expand...

Dont plan on much motorway driving ;)

A scoop may be incorporated if needed but I think an alisport rad or similar will come first, chaning from the standard RRC one

I have got the best fan possible on it though and by god does it move some air !!
 
200tdi ayre said:
Dont plan on much motorway driving ;)

A scoop may be incorporated if needed but I think an alisport rad or similar will come first, chaning from the standard RRC one

I have got the best fan possible on it though and by god does it move some air !!
Click to expand...

I got an ali rad and 2 whopping great fans! But still heats up. need some sort of scoop.. its on the list :)
 
You will need a scoop of some sort fans no matter how big don't keep things cool under load, I was up at Newton lodge comp safari last weekend and some of them with rads in the rear were having problems.
Also take a look at tomcat scoops they have used several designs because the early versions weren't to good, I think the ones that hang out over the screen worked best
Mine will have no screen and a back in the cab with small sides so in effect a very large scoop.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Brenda__the__Defender
Help Needed!
Replies
8
Views
1K
Brenda__the__Defender
Brenda__the__Defender
Stanleysteamer
Dixon-Bate.
Replies
5
Views
428
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
Brenda__the__Defender
TheVirtual LandRover
Replies
0
Views
521
Brenda__the__Defender
Brenda__the__Defender
Shogun243
Passenger Footwell Leak
2
Replies
27
Views
3K
Shogun243
Shogun243
Gorf
5.0 SC rebuild
Replies
6
Views
1K
marjon
marjon
Back
Top