ALRC Project

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owl said:
You will need a scoop of some sort fans no matter how big don't keep things cool under load, I was up at Newton lodge comp safari last weekend and some of them with rads in the rear were having problems.
Also take a look at tomcat scoops they have used several designs because the early versions weren't to good, I think the ones that hang out over the screen worked best
Mine will have no screen and a back in the cab with small sides so in effect a very large scoop.
Click to expand...

The scoops at the front do look very good, makes sense as you get high pressure air at the windscreen compared to on top where its probably low.
Think that's half the problem with mine, the is a low pressure area at the rear which has a negative effect!
 
discomark10 said:
The scoops at the front do look very good, makes sense as you get high pressure air at the windscreen compared to on top where its probably low.
Think that's half the problem with mine, the is a low pressure area at the rear which has a negative effect!
Click to expand...

Thats right, Drew Bowler had scoops on top of the roof doing the Dakar and had overheating issues and I am sure that is when he changed to the over screen type, I seem to remember that they knocked them up during the event.
 
owl said:
You will need a scoop of some sort fans no matter how big don't keep things cool under load, I was up at Newton lodge comp safari last weekend and some of them with rads in the rear were having problems.
Also take a look at tomcat scoops they have used several designs because the early versions weren't to good, I think the ones that hang out over the screen worked best
Mine will have no screen and a back in the cab with small sides so in effect a very large scoop.
Click to expand...

Ill have to get a pook at some other challenge trucks and see what they've done as thats what im hoping to do.


Thats the back of the gigglepin truck and the only differences I can see is they havent got corner windows and door windows and its an alisport rad but the positioning is the same as mine and they're running a 6.2 LS3 :eek:

So ill probably give mine some hammer and see what happens
 
jai_landrover said:
The rad isn't a std rad tho it's huge
Click to expand...

Looks the same physical size as mine, remember im running RR V8 rad which is the biggest on any LR vehicle my age, just alisport version and may be a triple core but like I said it has to cool a 6.3 producing alot more power than my RV8, plus ive got all the metal piping underneith to help dissipate heat too and larger bore slightly than standard meaning theres more water to absorb/ dissipate heat.

Just watched a vid form KOM and the cars there are about half half scoop no scoop. Some side mounted some top, so that gives me ideas for if I do need to do one.
 
A scoop won't do much at challenge truck speeds, like trials you spend most time on light or no throttle so a good rad and fans will keep things cool. But when you are in deep mud under full load you are totally reliant on you fans they are the weak link in the chain.
Obviously on speed events we can use scoops and pressure differences around the car to up the through put of air through the rad.
 
Have you got an oil cooler , and if yes how big ? as oil coolers are very good at getting rid of heat , esp considering their size , a VW beetle is really oil cooled , using a cooler about 12" x4" HTSH
 
It could just be a trial and error thing. You might find your type of usage wont require any scoop.
I've never had mine heat up offroad, but I don't do speed related events.
 
I am considering rear rad on my ccv build, I would run ally pipe front to back and a big fan. My thoughts as I will be cabless would be to build it into the rear of the tub with luver vents front and back.
 
tacr2man said:
Have you got an oil cooler , and if yes how big ? as oil coolers are very good at getting rid of heat , esp considering their size , a VW beetle is really oil cooled , using a cooler about 12" x4" HTSH
Click to expand...

Yep ive got an oil cooler at the front, 300tdo auto box cooler infact as it fits well but doesnt take up too much space. Hopefully it will work
 
owl said:
A scoop won't do much at challenge truck speeds, like trials you spend most time on light or no throttle so a good rad and fans will keep things cool. But when you are in deep mud under full load you are totally reliant on you fans they are the weak link in the chain.
Obviously on speed events we can use scoops and pressure differences around the car to up the through put of air through the rad.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly. I have obly got 1 fan but its the best I coyld buy not just some cheap Chinese made fan so hopefully its reliable
 
Well worth putting the rad in the back, keeps it out of the crap. you don't need much for trialing as it is only short bursts on the loud pedal and then a rest while you plan the next section.
 
200tdi ayre said:
My thoughts exactly. I have obly got 1 fan but its the best I coyld buy not just some cheap Chinese made fan so hopefully its reliable
Click to expand...

You'll know what to do, tractors have the same issues as in slow speed and heavy loads.

When are you back in the UK. I will need some hoses making in a month or two.
 
Yeah I plan on a couple of temp guages, one at the engine one at the rad so I know how well its cooling.

Trialing im not worried about overheating, its more challenges and road driving where theres high revs, higher loads etc

Tractors all use engine driven fans, you really notice when they fully kick in, dramatically drops power :) ill find a way to keep it cool

Im back first week of august, plan on going to KOV a few days after I get back (not competing of course)
 
Thats why I mention tractors, them fans take some turning. 1HP is 750 watts which on a 12 volt system takes 62 amps. You need a serious electric fan to compete with engine driven.
 
owl said:
My biggest fear is parts sticking in the mold, I have had a few patches stick and pull the pattern coat primer off the pattern.
Click to expand...

I haven't read the whole thread, so I don't know how you are finishing the mould. I'd use a PVA (not the glue) release agent after the final wax, and then use good old water to separate the moulding from the mould. In yachtbuilding we'd get a hose into a gap (made with a thin wooden wedge) and leave it running. Capillary action sets up surprisingly high presssures that force the gap open, and the water also dissolves the PVA which helps too.
 
boguing said:
I haven't read the whole thread, so I don't know how you are finishing the mould. I'd use a PVA (not the glue) release agent after the final wax, and then use good old water to separate the moulding from the mould. In yachtbuilding we'd get a hose into a gap (made with a thin wooden wedge) and leave it running. Capillary action sets up surprisingly high presssures that force the gap open, and the water also dissolves the PVA which helps too.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I am spraying PVA on top of 10 coats of wax. It was only the patterns that I had trouble with, the parts I have taken from the molds have released ok.
 
Hi Guys, I have had a break from building the motor or perhaps I should say diversion of labour on to the house :rolleyes:
However I have managed a few hours this weekend and have made a dash, once finished it will have a key start, warning lights and a few switches for lights. Nice and simple. The sharp eyed amongst you will notice that it is offset this is to make room for the key start on the right side of the column.
Also I have fitted body cappings and made the panels for the sides and rear of the cab. next it will have a polycarb panel to fill the top half which will then make a larg air scoop for the rad.





 
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