About to take the P38 plunge

Dash computer is accurate to within a tenth of a mpg since I removed the power box.

I've got an LPG converted P38 on an R plate. I love it I've covered over 3K miles with a horse box on the back with 2 large horses in it and it hasn't missed a beat. I'm averaging 15mpg on LPG with my Ifor 505 on the back

Andrealouisea said:

I've got an LPG converted P38 on an R plate. I love it I've covered over 3K miles with a horse box on the back with 2 large horses in it and it hasn't missed a beat. I'm averaging 15mpg on LPG with my Ifor 505 on the back

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That's good to hear Andrea If you average 15mpg, is that of scotch or vodka and what mpg do you get out of the p38??

Datatek said:

That's good to hear Andrea If you average 15mpg, is that of scotch or vodka and what mpg do you get out of the p38??

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Hi Keith!

newcyboots said:

Thanks Tcubed..

I did fancy the diesel to start with.. but was told coupled with the auto box to only expect 24-26 to mpg and that it was sluggish as hell?

My line of thinking was if i had a 4.0 V8 with LPG, id be expecting about 18mpg.. as LPG is half the cost of petrol, pound for pound id be getting the equivilent of 36mpg out of it??

Anybody out there with a 2.5 auto DSE that can give me some feedback? Or anyone owned both the 4.0 V8 and the 2.5 diesel that could give me a comparison?

Thanks,
Andrew

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I've got the 2.5 DT (manual box). The manual box makes all the difference. I get 28 - 30 mpg and if I put my foot down and pull the turbo into action it is really quite a respectable turn of speed. Try one and I think you'll find it much better than the diesel with the autobox. I did. First diesel I've ever owned!

Thanks for all the info guys.. brill advice.

Ive found what looks like a cracker.. Its a jan 2001 X plate, 2.5 DHSE auto.. Its got 101k on it, full LR history, every item works down to the heated seats and all the door solonoids!! (unlike the freelander!) ,, no rut or lauer peel anywhere, no smell of damp, carpets dry,

Ill be using all the advice ive had off you guys when i go to test drive it on the weekend.. If anyone has anything else to advise me about, feel free to leave a post!

I havent searched the forum yet (dont shoot me!) but will do before the weekend.. But if any of you guys could let me know if these beasts are ok to service yourself, that would be great.

Is the BMW 2.5 engine in it chain driven? Any particular weak spots like the TD4 freelander and TD5 Discos have?

And whats this hot 7 cold start problem i see them having uite a bit of?

The later P38's are the best to go for, by the end of the run a lot of niggles wre sorted - that is not to say they are niggle free mind!!

The Engine is Chain driven so no need to worry about a rubber belt - but they should still be checked for tension...!!

Servicing is simple enough if you can handle a spanner and an oil tray!!

The Hot Start issue is due to stretch in the Fuel Injection Pump timing chain - after 20k miles or so (or is it km's - anyhoot) the stretch alters the injection timing causing it to not be set in the right place to permit hot starting.

The correct method to aleviate this is to have the pump retimed (can be done yourself if you know what you are doing as the adjustment is in the thousandsth of an inch region - not much but enough to screw things up) - better to get a Bosch dealer to retime it (about £250 ish - maybe more, maybe less!)

The alternative is an electronic work around - a small unit is plugged into the engine harness and it masks the Coolant Temp sensor reading to the ECUto put it into Cold Start mode - Glow Plugs on and set the fuel pump for cold start after 30 seconds of engine running it hands control back to the ECU again....it works but it is a work around - retiming is the correct method and you may even get better economy from it too....

Ensure your cooling system is up to snuff too, like any Range Rover beit Petrol or Diesel, the heads are prone to cracking or warping under high temperatures.

The Leak Off Pipes (Spill Pipes) interlinking the injectors can split and introduce air into the fuel system, change them out - 15minute job and only a few quid for a couple of metres of 6mm fuel pipe...!!

Loads of info on here for the Diesel P38's - the engine is bullet proof if you keep up with servicing, and is by far the most robust of the powertrains....

Thanks for the advice saint. advice and tips off you and everyone else in this thread have made my trip into the RR section of landyzone a pleasure. ill post again at the weekend to let you know if i buy it.

Saint.V8 said:

The later P38's are the best to go for, by the end of the run a lot of niggles wre sorted - that is not to say they are niggle free mind!!

The Engine is Chain driven so no need to worry about a rubber belt - but they should still be checked for tension...!!

Servicing is simple enough if you can handle a spanner and an oil tray!!

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To echo above sound advice from saint. Look at changing oils every 6000 to 8000 miles maybe less in your first months to clean it out. Maybe use a flush once (but no more than) if it looks sludgy inside the oil cap.

Check the brakes from speed - medium to hard braking from 60mph and look for judder through the steering wheel or felt in the base off the seat. Pulsation through the brake pedal when crawling along. Both will reveal disc thickness variation and will be new discs and pads.

Have a look at the air filter element and oil to see if its condition matches any service records. The oil, being diesel, will probably be jet black but shouldn't be really gloopy or sooty.

When its up to operating temp just let it idle for a few minutes to see if theres any odd noises or vibrations from the engine. There isn't a definitive cure for this one yet but some are worse than others.

Do some turns at full lock in both directions to feel for any transmission windup/tyre skips due to siezed vcu.

Thanks Aero.. Will check all those when i have it on test. Thanks for the extra advice

The gearbox oil should be changed every 30K miles (auto), it almost never gets done by garages, so an early change of oil and filter will help prolong the life of the box.

Datatek said:

The gearbox oil should be changed every 30K miles (auto), it almost never gets done by garages, so an early change of oil and filter will help prolong the life of the box.

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Valid point. Same would/should apply to diffs (maybe 60k if sealed well), manual box, and transfer box to for belt and braces.

I've got a 4.6 on single point injection lpg system. It was converted when I bought it, and initially it was showing 10.5mpg on the computer. I serviced it, changed the oil, plugs, and put a free flow induction system on it, and it now does around 15mpg. With a full tank of gas and full petrol, I can get about 400+ miles on a long run. (Each tank is 100 litres). Local LPG is 63.9p so happy days. Do watch the electrics though, and make sure you have a good earth. Don't touch anything in a sealed box or you'll regret it, oh and watch for rust attacks on the chassis. Otherwise, enjoy