97 dse vibrations

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synchro said:
Just digged into the new dynamos packing, mmm mmm does it not look nice comparing new to yeeeeeeears old car parts.

It has a volt setpoint of 14.42 so i guess im swapping out the regulator with the 14.7 one. Isn't it weird how they don't increase the setpoint if its so much better with 14.7 instead of 14.2-4 on p38? or perhaps its just a alternator which also fits the "bmw" bmw m51 diesel?

it is a stc 2227 which i believe is the correcto

Ripple current of 18.1 A, 0.7mA leakage and 899 cut in speed rpm, 1000 rpm turn on speed.

Says me nothing :D
Click to expand...

14.4V will be fine. BMW unit is the same - I got the BMW one because it was cheaper, although it also had a 13.8V setpoint until I upgraded it.
 
synchro said:
Just digged into the new dynamos packing, mmm mmm does it not look nice comparing new to yeeeeeeears old car parts.

It has a volt setpoint of 14.42 so i guess im swapping out the regulator with the 14.7 one. Isn't it weird how they don't increase the setpoint if its so much better with 14.7 instead of 14.2-4 on p38? or perhaps its just a alternator which also fits the "bmw" bmw m51 diesel?

it is a stc 2227 which i believe is the correcto

Ripple current of 18.1 A, 0.7mA leakage and 899 cut in speed rpm, 1000 rpm turn on speed.

Says me nothing :D
Click to expand...
14.4 volts will be fine unless you do a lot of short runs
 
Ok just to update, if i kick both rear wheelss inwards i get a smalll movement and a mechanical. Clunky clunk so i guess it is the panhard, but its on its last life?

Are there bushings on the radius arms aswell as they take foreward/backwards movements of axle ay? Its fekin snow everywere now so dont wanna climb under it

after some skim reading, panhard must/should be off the car to ease removal/installment of new bushings?

Also, the radius arms need special tool and are harder to do.

anyone know the part number on panhard bushing, im convinced it is that now without checking, who checks…
 
Last edited:
There are bushes in the radius arms at the front getting them out is a piece of cake with a drill bit down the side but putting them bake in is not so easy as the new ones are 2mm bigger in diameter and need pushing through a restrictor to squeeze them up as they push in, it has been done using jubilee clips
the panhard rod bushes can be changed as well, but unless they are really bad would could probably wait, the way they are fixed it cant go far same as the radius arms.
 
synchro said:
Ok just to update, if i kick both rear wheelss inwards i get a smalll movement and a mechanical. Clunky clunk so i guess it is the panhard, but its on its last life?

Are there bushings on the radius arms aswell as they take foreward/backwards movements of axle ay? Its fekin snow everywere now so dont wanna climb under it

after some skim reading, panhard must/should be off the car to ease removal/installment of new bushings?

Also, the radius arms need special tool and are harder to do.

anyone know the part number on panhard bushing, im convinced it is that now without checking, who checks…
Click to expand...

I've heard getting the panhard rod back on can be fun but never tried it myself.
 
Grrrrrr said:
I've heard getting the panhard rod back on can be fun but never tried it myself.
Click to expand...

Its not to bad with the wheels still touching the ground and the eas on high and left so the chassis drop a little on to axle stands, it cant go far
but the bolt on mine were more than done up FT, that was the hardest part getting the bolts out:(
 
ok, just read the procedure on Rave. Looks fair. I guess its just to jack it up and get some axle stands under the axle.
Then just brute force all thoose bolts off, probably gonna soak them with magic juice first before attempting.

Im probably just gonna order new bolts and nuts for it as its probably not that much left of it anyhow.
Now, do i need a press or c clamp thingy?

I have a vice, and lots of sockets so prob find one which fits to press out.. Same procedure going in i guess..

200nm is not little, hope it gets off easily...
 
synchro said:
ok, just read the procedure on Rave. Looks fair. I guess its just to jack it up and get some axle stands under the axle.
Then just brute force all thoose bolts off, probably gonna soak them with magic juice first before attempting.

Im probably just gonna order new bolts and nuts for it as its probably not that much left of it anyhow.
Now, do i need a press or c clamp thingy?

I have a vice, and lots of sockets so prob find one which fits to press out.. Same procedure going in i guess..

200nm is not little, hope it gets off easily...
Click to expand...
You’re going to need new bolts and a good press, for sure. I’ve done this twice now and getting the pan hard rod on and off is easy compared to getting the bolts off or getting the bushes out and the new ones pressed back in.
 
I did mine with polly bushes ,had to cut the bolts with a thin grinder blade ,,,new bolts and
it was easy ;) left the wheels on and rolled the axle back n forth till it all lined up /:) oh and drilled hammered old ones out..chases was on axle stands ..
 
I'd get the whole car on a ramp or on axle stands.
All four wheels off the ground, put it in low and drive with the engine running and watch the profile of each wheel. I bet you have a bent rim:)
Mine does it at around 70mph and so does my son's. As Keith says swap the wheels from front to rear.
 
synchro said:
Sad to say, but the car is going to be turned into nails. Huge hole in differential, left airbag gone, (completly) also, rear left calipper (whole schebang) were missing. It did not leak brake fluid as the hose apparently where clogged up.
Also no panhard rod in the rear.

The workshop also found the rear propshaft to be missing....
I dont know what has happend
Click to expand...
Silly ass:rolleyes:
 
Datatek said:
Panhard rod is easy, I didn't bother changing the bushes, I just replaced the whole rod. Half an hours work.
Click to expand...

might do that Aswell. Its like changing the ujoints. You get a new axle with 2 new joints for 50-60£ more. I paid 40£ for just one silly uj. It was in Norway tho. It was needed quick.

i dont think my rim is bent tbh. It suddently became a problem, and i guess i’d feel it if the rim gets a solid hit.. Anyhow will take the advice on getting it on jackstands and put it in drive. Without wheels perhaps, easier i guess. Gotta renew the brake fluids aswell! Brake fluid is overdue 100%.
 
synchro said:
might do that Aswell. Its like changing the ujoints. You get a new axle with 2 new joints for 50-60£ more. I paid 40£ for just one silly uj. It was in Norway tho. It was needed quick.

i dont think my rim is bent tbh. It suddently became a problem, and i guess i’d feel it if the rim gets a solid hit.. Anyhow will take the advice on getting it on jackstands and put it in drive. Without wheels perhaps, easier i guess. Gotta renew the brake fluids aswell! Brake fluid is overdue 100%.
Click to expand...
Have you inspected the wheel where the wheel nuts seat? It may be damaged due to running with loose nuts.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Yes, they put a lot more of it in up north though. They have to. I don't suppose many people bother with diesel in Russia but @Gunnerhavesome will know for sure.
Click to expand...
Sorry, Have been offline for a while. Yes true Grrrr not many diesel cars here but also petrol is cheap compared to western standards so they never fell into the big trap that the UK gov set for the brit car user.
 
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