4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

[jamesmartin]

yeah they fit, just entire gasket opening is not taken up by combustion chamber

pistons dont come out the top of the block

as long as combustion chamber doesnt overlap fire ring

 

[3.5 efi]

the woodruff should be a nice interference fit, snug as a bug but be able to get out by hand. it's only there to ensure gear/sprocket goes on in right place. the bolt does the work.

 

[fett]

as long as combustion chamber doesnt overlap fire ring

its the other way round , I aint as dumb as doc

 

[jamesmartin]

its the other way round , I aint as dumb as doc

i didnt think you were ,but the best of us do /say daft things when over thinking

 

[fett]

ha ha true, I am stuck now actually!

first dumb mistake, does it matter which side the heads go on, I just noticed tonight that the inlet manifold numbers dont match the heads lol, does it affect the bolts of the ancillaries? not sure how well p38 ancillery bolt holes gonna match a 1972 range rover set up anway lol.

and less dumb mistake but a harder question perhaps, this billet duplex chain comes with its own instructions, its a non vernia type. I have taken a pic of the instructions, I have set it up as best I can to match them its darn close which I gather is good for non vernia types with aftermarket cams. however I am really stuck where it comes to the range rover manual saying put the front cover and pully on dummy fit to check the tdc mark on pulley aligns with the pointer on the timing cover, it doesnt, its one mark off I guess, in the pic 1 black pen mark on the pully is where its pointing and the other is the tdc mark.

what am I doing wrong, if you look at the pic of the lifters and valves they must be closed and piston at the top I think?

if I take the the chain and pullys off, and get the tdc mark lining up on the crank and pointer and try and put chain and pullys back how could the all line up as in the drawing? as do you think one tooth is more than the amount its currently out on the pointer?

I hope that makes sense to someone? lol

Timing Gear Photos by fett8 | Photobucket

 

[jamesmartin]

presumably you checked dot on crank sprocket was tdc no1 ,if so then set at that ,both marks should run down center line of both crank and cam on lr at least

 

[fett]

well piston one at top of stroke as near as I can tell without dti, both valves shut as per pic. The marks are very stupid on crank sprocket if you look at the pic of the instructions on the left of the sheet for tdc std set up you will see. but whats it all got to do with lr manual and pully/pointer set up----- arghhh.

what u think of heads question btw? did I make a rookie?

 

[jamesmartin]

well piston one at top of stroke as near as I can tell without dti, both valves shut as per pic. The marks are very stupid on crank sprocket if you look at the pic of the instructions on the left of the sheet for tdc std set up you will see. but whats it all got to do with lr manual and pully/pointer set up----- arghhh.

what u think of heads question btw? did I make a rookie?

heads sound ok ,whats important is tdc and valves both shut ,then 1 turn later there both on the rock lr as you know both marks line up with ruler through center of crank and cam

 

[jamesmartin]

well mr fett i dont think i can make out that much from sheet on pics

 

[jamesmartin]

though i think ive found your dip stick tube

 

[discomark10]

The heads are reversible. Just depends if there are and modifications to one end. The crank/cam mark is 1 tooth out, as in.. one tooth its off to left and one will be off to righ, that's the bonus with the vernier ones. (Thanks mark from a lr is born hehe)

 

[fett]

yeah thats what I was thinking of mark, But I am not sure it is, have I just put the chain one tooth out, have a look at the new pics of the instructions everyone and compare them to the pics of what I have done.

Billit Cam Chain Instructions Photos by fett8 | Photobucket

Anyone fancy coming down and checking my work here? Zen?, if I am gonna make a feckup then this could well be it as the process have always puzzled me!

 

[jamesmartin]

not difficult to check with steel rule ,to see if marks align with crank and cam centers

 

[fett]

yeah they do, as best you can tell, look at the instructions as there is no actual mark on the spot on the crank chain wheel.

really i am not happy I am at tdc with piston/valves as the pointer on the timing cover doesnt line up on harmonic ballencer tdc mark.

 

[fett]

See what I mean here mate, no real mark on crank chain wheel, daft innit

chainpic3.jpg Photo by fett8 | Photobucket

 

[jamesmartin]

See what I mean here mate, no real mark on crank chain wheel, daft innit

chainpic3.jpg Photo by fett8 | Photobucket

oh i see what you mean you have vernier key ways, so you set crank and cam and fit sprocket to best place with chain tight on drive side

 

[fett]

so looking at the harmonic balencer and timing cover pointer discrepancy can I be one whole keyway/tooth out from the correct tdc?

 

[jamesmartin]

did you check marks on pulley matched actual tdc before fitting head , you want to try timing a series 2.25 diesel they use similar pulley on cam

 

[fett]

no, I didnt know to do that , but also how would I know which stroke the piston was on without the head on to check both valves were shut?

Anyway its a bit late now I really need someone to show me how to do this just once lol , never done it before

 

[jamesmartin]

no, I didnt know to do that , but also how would I know which stroke the piston was on without the head on to check both valves were shut?

Anyway its a bit late now I really need someone to show me how to do this just once lol , never done it before

it doesnt matter which stroke its on as that only occurs once chain is on ,you need to know marks on pulley tally with tdc use a indicator through plug hole then once you know fit chain with chosen key turn over twice and re-check way if not right try another key way then turn over twice and recheck oly turn clockwise as looking from front