4.4 rv8 build thread (Doc evil need not post)

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right guys the heads are on with the real gaskets, cams in timing gear is on, the dummy build with plastercene and non primed lifters revealed a few questions.

annoyingly the plastercene still missed the valve when I tuned the engine so I dont know the valve to piston clearance (and the other lump of plastercene I put in another bore has disapeared without a trace lol) the piston clearnce it showed against the flat part of the head is 1.6-2.3 mm (hard to measure goo) does that sound about standard? just worried about valves hitting pistons at higher rpm.

secondly I changed the cam key as the other one was not flat by micro standards, but I noticed the old one had a groove on the top edge I guess to help the oil run forward to the chain, the new one does not have that, does it matter?

James you said look out for horizontal wear lines on side of crank key to denote stress damage, there is a line, cant feel it but it wont rub off either, its just a very deep stain or could it be stress line? I dont wanna have one let go after all this!

Thanks guys for all the help, just getting closer now, just checking tdc cam timing and lifter preload and thats all the internals done, only taken a year pmsl :p
 
On my tablet I can't see pictures well enough-can you feel any roughness with finger nail?
If you have any doubts then replace.
 
I dont think I could, I had a new cam one but no crank one, its hard to tell if new chinese will be better than old english/aussie
 
I dont think I could, I had a new cam one but no crank one, its hard to tell if new chinese will be better than old english/aussie

As long as it is a sliding fit, and not sloppy I can't personally remember crank problems on v8 like 200 tdi had.

Out of choice the original in good condition beats chinese Christmas cracker quality imho
 
lets hope shes ok then, cos its in now and it would be a pita to take it back off although may have to when I check tdc against timing cover/crank pully marks although I have the pleasure of doing the lifter preload first so I can soak the lifters and finish it etc etc
 
Personally I would do a bit of a search on tinteterweb about piston clearance.. failing that ring up realsteel, they might be able to advise.
And I agree.. stick with the original woodruff!
on the cam you should have a hole that trickles oil to the chain, I don't think the drive gear gets anything much. Did you see what I ended up doing to get a bit more oil feed for the chain?
 
lol, no one knows, cos its such a mix or parts, it was the lat 10 bolt heads that have been skimmed that put a spanner in the works, I know the rest of it would have had clearance with std 4.4 p76 heads but both sets were too shagged and way less efficient.

if it turns over by hand without hitting is it ok? or is there "hang time" on the valves at higher rpm?

I saw your oiler bud, I just dont wanna drill out, that blocks had a hard enough 40 years as it is :p
 
May well be a bit of hang time.. ide be interested to see at what point its on, on the way to being closed as the piston returns to top.
If Im correct its only the exhaust valve that would cause issues unless you opening very early on the inlet side, but that would either hit or not as the piston would be on the way down
I wonder.. can you get a view down the plug hole?.
 
heads have a combustion chamber there will be a large gap ,turn engine over till valves are on the rock/ tdc and lever each valve down on that cylinder it will show what clearance it has ,key ,pic isnt in focus but unless it shows signs of bending or shearing i wouldnt worry
 
thanks james, so the key is probs ok :) the clearance I measured was from the very top edge of the piston to the underside of the flat part of the head. I think the heads you gave me are 4.6 94mm bore ones and are being fitted to a 88mm bore engine so there is flat head where there is normally combustion chamber on a larger bore engine. will that work ok?
 
thanks james, so the key is probs ok :) the clearance I measured was from the very top edge of the piston to the underside of the flat part of the head. I think the heads you gave me are 4.6 94mm bore ones and are being fitted to a 88mm bore engine so there is flat head where there is normally combustion chamber on a larger bore engine. will that work ok?

you must have checked piston height before fitting head did you check gasket fit on heads
 
yeah they fit, just entire gasket opening is not taken up by combustion chamber

pistons dont come out the top of the block
 
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