300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 said:

Cheers, mate. This is where a lack of experience has a big affect on planning a strategy. There's not a lot left to go on, I suppose. I'll leave the front end timing stuff until it's in.

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Why wait till its in?

Fit the pulleys, idler, tensioner and belt on the stand, front cover etc....etc... And leave the main pulley bolt until it is fitted in the car.

Your choice, I am 6'3" and of broad design! So getting at things in tight spots is not fun, hence why I would do all I could with all the space in the world.

Either way it is done it will get done I guess.

Saint.V8 said:

Why wait till its in?

Fit the pulleys, idler, tensioner and belt on the stand, front cover etc....etc... And leave the main pulley bolt until it is fitted in the car.

Your choice, I am 6'3" and of broad design! So getting at things in tight spots is not fun, hence why I would do all I could with all the space in the world.

Either way it is done it will get done I guess.

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Because I was thinking before I put the front cover on I need to set the timing and was planning on using my new timing kit and sticking that screw in to the flywheel. Whic isn't on yet.

Saint.V8 said:

Why wait till its in?

Fit the pulleys, idler, tensioner and belt on the stand, front cover etc....etc... And leave the main pulley bolt until it is fitted in the car.

Your choice, I am 6'3" and of broad design! So getting at things in tight spots is not fun, hence why I would do all I could with all the space in the world.

Either way it is done it will get done I guess.

Click to expand...

I agree completely, not worked on the 300 but on the TD5 you need a gynocologist to do some of the stuff, and it gets frustrating. More chance of getting it bang on if you can work comfortably.

I'd agree with doing everything possible with the engine out - its easy enough to prop a 300 on blocks on a flat surface..... I'd be looking for minimum work in the engine bay - its too tight - I'm tall and broad too, so confined spaces aren't really my thing !!

Saint.V8 said:

Why wait till its in?

Fit the pulleys, idler, tensioner and belt on the stand, front cover etc....etc... And leave the main pulley bolt until it is fitted in the car.

Your choice, I am 6'3" and of broad design! So getting at things in tight spots is not fun, hence why I would do all I could with all the space in the world.

Either way it is done it will get done I guess.

Click to expand...

raywin said:

I agree completely, not worked on the 300 but on the TD5 you need a gynocologist to do some of the stuff, and it gets frustrating. More chance of getting it bang on if you can work comfortably.

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Disco1BFG said:

I'd agree with doing everything possible with the engine out - its easy enough to prop a 300 on blocks on a flat surface..... I'd be looking for minimum work in the engine bay - its too tight - I'm tall and broad too, so confined spaces aren't really my thing !!

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Despite being like a racing snake, I'm taking everyone's advice and fitting as much as I can.

Ok, this is probably just me, but how do I torque the cam gear pulley bolt to 80N.m when the camshaft just turns? There's another special tool I haven't got, isn't there

Al2O3 said:

Ok, this is probably just me, but how do I torque the cam gear pulley bolt to 80N.m when the camshaft just turns? There's another special tool I haven't got, isn't there

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Can you not use an old timing belt wrapped around it and then attach it to an anchor point to become a locking strap of a sorts? 80Nm is not that tight.

hopefully that make sense to you.....LOL

Cheers

neilly said:

Can you not use an old timing belt wrapped around it and then attach it to an anchor point to become a locking strap of a sorts? 80Nm is not that tight.

hopefully that make sense to you.....LOL

Cheers

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Cheers, neilly. I've still got the old belt, I'll see if I can rig something up.

You're a genius, neilly.
Used the old belt around the pulley and the crank shaft. Nipped it up with a G clamp. Solid And you were right, 80N.m is not that much. Thread locked it in.

Anyone know where this goes?


It came in the timing belt kit. There's one in the Elring kit too, but the Elring kit has not parts list/part numbers to it Which has wound me up a bit, several times.
I've found reference to it here ON LZ where the LZ member refers to seeing it on microcat between the block and the front cover. It can't go against the block tho, otherwise it wouldn't be in a standard timing kit. Any ideas?
I've looked on Paddocks and LR Direct, but it is just listed as 'Joint Washer' with no reference to what joint?
EDIT
Can't remember reading about it on @Saint.V8 timing belt how to, but I'll go back and have another read through.

Al2O3 said:

Anyone know where this goes?

View attachment 123080
It came in the timing belt kit. There's one in the Elring kit too, but the Elring kit has not parts list/part numbers to it Which has wound me up a bit, several times.
I've found reference to it here ON LZ where the LZ member refers to seeing it on microcat between the block and the front cover. It can't go against the block tho, otherwise it wouldn't be in a standard timing kit. Any ideas?
I've looked on Paddocks and LR Direct, but it is just listed as 'Joint Washer' with no reference to what joint?

Click to expand...

Al2O3 said:

Anyone know where this goes?

View attachment 123080
if you look between and at the bottom of pump and cam pulleys youll see a raised front cover bolt hole, it fits there to make up for the thickness of front cover gasket

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Do you mean here, James?

Al2O3 said:

Do you mean here, James?
View attachment 123083

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yes

jamesmartin said:

yes

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Magic, thank you.

Not sure where the time has gone today.
Fitted the new QH water pump after cleaning gasket faces carefully.


Cleaned the P gasket faces and fitted housing on to the block.


I'd also painted the power steering mounting bracket with black rustoleum and polished all of the bolts.
Cleaned the thermostat housing faces and bolted it back on to the head.



Put the camshaft pulley back on and tightened it to 80N.m, improvising with a way of stopping the pulley wheel from turning while being torqued up. neilly's suggestion.

replaced the timing belt tensioner stud using the two nut method.


Loosely fitted the tensioning pulleys.

Went to the box where I have my upper and lower Elring gasket kits and no O ring for the crankshaft No idea if it was never in there or I've lost it. Can't remember taking it out though! Having said that the grey matter is a bit old, so it's not impossible, but I don't know why I would have before now. If there was an itemised list in with the kit have I mentioned that before?
While looking for the O ring I found another P gasket in the kit It's the metal version, I've fitted the card type that was also in there. Why put two in? It was a metal one that was on before.
By this time it was about 5pm. I think cleaning and painting things had taken a bit of time. Could have put the head on and started installing the clutch, but decided to save that for tomorrow.
Did a bit of cleaning instead as I've still got a few things that are covered in oil from the breakdown. Cleaned down the starter motor, alternator, enging mounts, air box frame, air box to turbo pipe and a few other bits and bobs.



Should I get another bearing seal shield for behind the crank pulley wheel?

The bolts from the locking tool have put a few dents in it.
How far on is it supposed to push? And is it just a tight push fit and that's it on?

I'll have to knock those dents out and do a bit of fettling if it's meant to sit tight up against the pulley.

I found out where one of those copper washers goes from the upper gasket kit One of the ones I thought might have been the oil squirt copper washers.
It's for the brass drain plug on the side of the block. Would have been right handy have an itemised list in that Elring gasket set.

Al2O3 said:

replaced the timing belt tensioner stud using the two nut method.

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All looking very nice there , very nice indeed.

what torque did you do the tensioner stud up to?

Cheers

neilly said:

All looking very nice there , very nice indeed.

what torque did you do the tensioner stud up to?

Cheers

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I didn't torque it, neilly. Just tightened up until the double nut arrangement started turning on the stud and the thread lock ouzed out of the hole. Must have put too much on It was pretty tight and there was no thread left on the stud. All the thread was in the housing and it had hit the un-turned part of the stud.

Appreciate the likes on the post, gents. However, I thought you would be disappointed by the lack of progress ie not getting it in the Landy?

I've found that bearing shield. It's called a flinger. Is it supposed to fling any water, dirt, etc away from the seal?

My "Flinger" came loose somehow, had to remove the pulley and refit using a bogger hammer to make sure it was home.

Only reason I asked about the torque was that the stud is actually done to quite a low torque, about 9 months ago someone over torqued it on here and managed to cause themselves a bit of a mare.

Cheers

I've always known them as a mud shield...flinger sounds plausible too...

As for the stud for the idler/tensioner - I couldn't find a torque required for the stud, but the nut is done up to 45N.m ....that being said, the use of thread lock will increase the break-free torque regardless of the torque you did it up too. Just don't over do it up!

Saint.V8 said:

I couldn't find a torque required for the stud, but the nut is done up to 45N.m

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From the good book.



Cheers