I think those bolts normally come with theadlock pre-applied, probably LRs way of making sue they are locked when they are replaced. I don't see any reason why you cant apply threadlock and reuse them as long as the guides don't have any movement when torqued up, I think it is the cone end of the bolt which retains the guide in place rather than the actual threaded portion of the bolt.
300 Tdi Rebuild
- Thread starter Al2O3
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I've done a bit of googling. There's oils to run from 200miles, 500 miles, they claim to be essential in bedding in the engine to set it up for optimal performance etc. Could just be sales talk? eg LINKY
That's right, it's the cone that locates the guide. I could easily take them out and thread lock them in.
raywin
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Whilst I agree that modern oils are amazingly superior to the old stuff - and the full synthetic is so cheap it's daft not to use it in my book - I wouldn't put "normal" oil in a rebuilt or new engine - I can't remember ( old age 
) the precise technical reason - but I think it's to do with the friction modifiers - which you don't want ...... yet....
Choose a proper oil manufacturer, and ring their technical people - I have great respect for the Castrol technical folk. I've found the more interesting the question, the better the help they give you.
A pal of mine built a gearbox, from scratch, ( cut all his own gears too ) for a railway locomotive - and he got in touch with Castrol, with all the technical info about shear forces on the gears etc., They could not have been more interested, or more helpful
) the precise technical reason - but I think it's to do with the friction modifiers - which you don't want ...... yet....Choose a proper oil manufacturer, and ring their technical people - I have great respect for the Castrol technical folk. I've found the more interesting the question, the better the help they give you.
A pal of mine built a gearbox, from scratch, ( cut all his own gears too ) for a railway locomotive - and he got in touch with Castrol, with all the technical info about shear forces on the gears etc., They could not have been more interested, or more helpful
raywin
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Well I totally agree about contacting the oil people it would be very interesting to hear what they say, they know much more about the story than any of us.Whilst I agree that modern oils are amazingly superior to the old stuff - and the full synthetic is so cheap it's daft not to use it in my book - I wouldn't put "normal" oil in a rebuilt or new engine - I can't remember ( old age
Choose a proper oil manufacturer, and ring their technical people - I have great respect for the Castrol technical folk. I've found the more interesting the question, the better the help they give you.
A pal of mine built a gearbox, from scratch, ( cut all his own gears too ) for a railway locomotive - and he got in touch with Castrol, with all the technical info about shear forces on the gears etc., They could not have been more interested, or more helpful
And there is also the confidence factor A1203 has spent many hours and many pounds on this engine and the support of a top lubrication company must help when putting this engine back into service.
I have seen discussions about oil people even saying some are too "slippy" and cause problems, but I have seen engines go from ones which were totally clapped out at 80k and probably had a full decoke and other work, to modern engines which take 100k in their stride, and can go on to much greater mileage if maintained, and synthetic oils play a big part in that story.
If I could like that more than once, I would... especially the first para !!
When I used to build small racing 2 stroke engines I always used to break them in with plain old 2T oil at a slightly higher ratio. If I used my normal synthetic running oil (Honda HP2) it was almost too good and the piston/liners wouldn't bed in without a lot of running in so wouldn't achieve peak performance.
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Hmmm, this is all very interesting. I too have read, in my Googling, that regular oil is too slippery. To err on the side of caution I will get some running in oil and swap it after the recommended time interval. Thanks gents, appreciate the contributions.
raywin
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You know you are the one who has done all the hard work, and put your money into this, if it gives you more confidence then it can't be a bad thing, and the oil is designed especially for this situation.Hmmm, this is all very interesting. I too have read, in my Googling, that regular oil is too slippery. To err on the side of caution I will get some running in oil and swap it after the recommended time interval. Thanks gents, appreciate the contributions.
I get the feeling tha there are a few people on here who are looking forward to reading the post that .....she is started and purring like a kitten can't be so far away now.
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Cheers, raywin. I really appreciate your contribution, support and advice. I might as well use running in oil. If I used the usual oil I would be changing it after a limited number of miles anyway, so may as well use running in oil. I'll check out some reviews to see if any brand has a better reputation.
I'm looking forward to the first start up myself
(with a hint of trepidation) It would be awesome if she purred like a kitten, but did a 300Tdi do that from new? I shouldn't be too far away to be honest. But, doing things for the first time takes ages. It's just a lack of experience and, therefore, confidence. I reckon if I was doing another body restoration I could do it in half the time. I do find it painfully slow and frustrating myself
raywin
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Well maybe purr is a bit of an exageration but you will know when it's OK.
Don't worry about frustration just learn from the experience, look at what works and what is no good, then remember, no one was born knowing everything, so take your time and enjoy the process.
Let us know what you think of the running in oil when you get to change it out, always valuable to hear first hand experience.
Bet you won't be intimidated by much after this one.
Don't worry about frustration just learn from the experience, look at what works and what is no good, then remember, no one was born knowing everything, so take your time and enjoy the process.
Let us know what you think of the running in oil when you get to change it out, always valuable to hear first hand experience.
Bet you won't be intimidated by much after this one.
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Fingers crossed that it sounds as sweet as a 300 can do.
I will certainly report back on the running in oil. Will be interesting to see what it looks like when it comes out and how the engine sounds with it compared to regular oil.
You're right, I wouldn't be intimidated by another engine rebuild, I'm just praying the gearbox holds out
Hadn't thought of a birthing video! I'll get the Mrs to do it, she's been at all the othersDon't forget to get someone to video the first start, its a bit like your first child being born (and hopefully a bit less messy)
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Is it possible to be sold a rip off Elring gasket?
I'd initially bought a 3 hole (one more than original) After measuring upstands and valve clearances decided to buy a no hole.
The bottom one I bought from Turner Engineering (3 hole one) and it has a fancy, metallic silver, hologram type sticker on the packet (top of 2nd Cylinder) Looks very official.
The top one looks identical, same looking packaging, same bit of paper inside. No silver hologram sticker? Got this one off an Ebay seller.
One might be older than the other and Elring might have just started with the sticker thing. Just wondering if anyone knew?
I'd initially bought a 3 hole (one more than original) After measuring upstands and valve clearances decided to buy a no hole.
The bottom one I bought from Turner Engineering (3 hole one) and it has a fancy, metallic silver, hologram type sticker on the packet (top of 2nd Cylinder) Looks very official.
The top one looks identical, same looking packaging, same bit of paper inside. No silver hologram sticker? Got this one off an Ebay seller.
One might be older than the other and Elring might have just started with the sticker thing. Just wondering if anyone knew?
neilly
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I would be surprised if it was a knock off.
Not a high enough demand for them to make the hassle and expense of it worthwhile.
Cheers
Not a high enough demand for them to make the hassle and expense of it worthwhile.
Cheers
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Good thinking, neilly.
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I am sure I have an Elring gasket without the hologram sticker on in the garage - not 100% sure as I may have already used it, but I certainly don't remember anything shiny on the packet - I remember things like that as my first reaction is always - 'ooooooh......shiny!!'
As above, it wouldn't be worth the hassle to clone a gasket for a 20+ year old engine!
As above, it wouldn't be worth the hassle to clone a gasket for a 20+ year old engine!
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Cheers, Saint. Yes, I think neilly has hit the nail on the head there.
Right. I need a kick up the backside and a bit of guidance.
I've been faffing about a bit so far this morning, probably cos I'm not sure of what approach to take next. To be fair I've dry fitted the new water pump, wire wheeled the lifting lugs, power steering pump brackets and associated bolts and in the process of painting the brackets. I've cleaned the P gasket faces up, but................. what to do next?
I'm think not to put the water/power steering pump housing on as it's just going to add weight and I could put it on in the vehicle?
I should put the head on and put the new clutch assembly in. But, that means it's on the engine crane and will have to go back in the Landy as I'll not get it in the garage on the crane.
Should I put more back on the front end first? It looks like this at the moment.
Kick up the backside needed
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Me personally I'd do everything you can while it is on a stand with easy access to everything....weight shouldn't be an issue as the lifting will be done with a crane suitable for the task....similarly with the stand.
You'll kick yourself if you install and then have a mere trying fit ancillaries in an awkward space of the engine bay.
You'll kick yourself if you install and then have a mere trying fit ancillaries in an awkward space of the engine bay.
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Cheers, mate. This is where a lack of experience has a big affect on planning a strategy. There's not a lot left to go on, I suppose. I'll leave the front end timing stuff until it's in.
