300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 said:

One of these is for the servo vacuum pump the other for the baffle plate.
View attachment 122505
Same size and hole configuration, but look like they are made of different materials. Obviously a different colour! The green one is waxy and the black one is dry. Any idea which one goes where? I think these gasket kits should have an itemised list for the numpty user.

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What about where these gaskets go, cos I could do with fitting them tomorrow?

Al2O3 said:

What about where these gaskets go, cos I could do with fitting them tomorrow?

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vac pump is normally green

Timing Kit - £20 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Land-...166620?hash=item33c1c3cc5c:g:2S4AAOSwUEVYDx2M

Just a link - I have no experience of this seller - but this is the kit I have and works well.

jamesmartin said:

vac pump is normally green

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Cheers, James. At a push I was thinking that is where the oil jet is and so I would put the green, waxy one there as it will probably get more oil at it. Was just a punt though!
I'll fit them that way around though.
I can't think why those two would be different, other than the pump one will get the strain of the pump action working on it.

Al2O3 said:

Cheers, James. At a push I was thinking that is where the oil jet is and so I would put the green, waxy one there as it will probably get more oil at it. Was just a punt though!
I'll fit them that way around though.
I can't think why those two would be different, other than the pump one will get the strain of the pump action working on it.

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pretty good thinking

Saint.V8 said:

Timing Kit - £20 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Land-...166620?hash=item33c1c3cc5c:g:2S4AAOSwUEVYDx2M

Just a link - I have no experience of this seller - but this is the kit I have and works well.

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Well, I'm very tempted. Think I'll have one Hopefully, this engine will last long enough to need a few belt changes so will be good value

Cracking job
That is going to be one Very nice engine

greyhair said:

Cracking job
That is going to be one Very nice engine

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Cheers, greyhair. I hope so!

Got a few more bits done today.
Started with cleaning the sump. I've already cleaned degreased it and treated it with Fertan twice over the last couple of weeks.
Cleaned the gasket face with a soft wire wheel. I was just starting here.


Got two coats of Rustoleum on it today. It dried pretty quickly in the sun.
Outside is not the smoothest, but it should just be the odd pheasant and rabbit that gets to see it close up. Other than me of course


The gasket face is perfect though.


Fitted the baffle plate.


Then the lift pump.


Then the vacuum pump.


Didn't bother with the oil filter head as it still has the pipes attached and they will just get in the way.
Fitted the oil strainer and pick up pipe and the return pipe. Thread locked them in.


The sump feels really dry, but I'm leaving it to harden over night. Tomorrow I'll fit the sump with RTV and then the engine can sit the right way up from now on. I'll then be able to fit the cam followers slides, cos they'll not fall out then

Thinking ahead a bit, I've got another basic question. Basic to you chaps, not to me obviously!
Actually, I think there might be a few questions coming up.
To sort the clutch end out, I'm going to have to take the engine off the stand. So, I'll have to put the head on to get it on the engine crane!
Would it be ok to put the head on up to the initial torque? I'm presuming to get the full torque it'll be easiest when it's bolted to the engine mounts?
I've got a new spigot bush soaking in oil and can't get at the old one cos of the engine stand mounting plate. I'm thinking of attempting the hydraulic method to remove the old one. What do you reckon?

Hydraulic method works well....

With care, you can put blocks under the engine and allow it to stand while yo do the flywheel/clutch parts....only issue is you'll need a second pair of hands to hold the engine firm while you do the flywheel bolts up!

As for the head - just do them up to the first torque setting on the stand, they more than hold while you lift off and refit to the car....then loosen and do the full torque process from the start with it in the car.....you'll be glad you did!

Saint.V8 said:

Hydraulic method works well....

With care, you can put blocks under the engine and allow it to stand while yo do the flywheel/clutch parts....only issue is you'll need a second pair of hands to hold the engine firm while you do the flywheel bolts up!

As for the head - just do them up to the first torque setting on the stand, they more than hold while you lift off and refit to the car....then loosen and do the full torque process from the start with it in the car.....you'll be glad you did!

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Ah yes, I've sat it on blocks before, along the sump flange. Non of my large, rugby playing, sons are home though I'll have to wait till next weekend

Just thinking ahead do you have you oil and filter ready? On my TD5 the filter is a little monkey to get at, so I filled up the filter with clean oil and screwed it on with the engine out then install the engine , cuts down the time to get oil pressure slightly when you start it up. I've even heard of people pumping or sryinging oil into the galeries of a re built engine by taking out the oil pressure sensor.
Probably you have a plan but just thought I would mention.


Regarding the clutch end could you clean the old head gasket put it on and nip the bolts then when you have done take it off and do the head and new gasket in one.

raywin said:

Just thinking ahead do you have you oil and filter ready? On my TD5 the filter is a little monkey to get at, so I filled up the filter with clean oil and screwed it on with the engine out then install the engine , cuts down the time to get oil pressure slightly when you start it up. I've even heard of people pumping or sryinging oil into the galeries of a re built engine by taking out the oil pressure sensor.
Probably you have a plan but just thought I would mention.

Regarding the clutch end could you clean the old head gasket put it on and nip the bolts then when you have done take it off and do the head and new gasket in one.

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I have an oil filter, but no oil as of yet. Obviously I try to plan ahead as best I can, but this is the first time I've stripped an engine to this level so at times its tricky to plan for what you don't know. If that makes sense So, all suggestions and plans welcomed I am very keen to benefit from others' experience I've not looked in to it yet, and never used any, but won't I need to get running in oil and change it after a 1000 miles or so? That's an interesting idea about the oil galleries, but won't it just quickly drain down n to the sump? I've no idea. I've packed the oil pump with vaseline.

Using the assembly lube on all the metal to metal contact faces, i.e. The main and big end shells, coat the whole camshaft in it, rockers and shaft etc......this will provide lube until the galleries fill.....

Remember once it is all back in, disconnect the stop solenoid wire and crank the engine a few times to prime the pump and oil ways up to the turbo.

You are doing a great job there - and I'd trust you to do mine too

Saint.V8 said:

Remember once it is all back in, disconnect the stop solenoid wire and crank the engine a few times to prime the pump and oil ways up to the turbo.

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+1 - this is essential in my book - crank at least until oil light goes out - or you have consistent pressure on a gauge.

Disco1BFG said:

You are doing a great job there - and I'd trust you to do mine too



+1 - this is essential in my book - crank at least until oil light goes out - or you have consistent pressure on a gauge.

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Yes that's a must, on petrol engines it's good to take out the spark plugs and spin it with the starter till the oil light goes off, so there is very little load on the engine as it brings the oil pressure up, filling the galeries is something some specialists do but don't worry I just mentioned it,
I still think it's a good idea to change the oil at 1000 miles after a re build especially when you have honed the bores, modern lubricants are light years ahead of the old stuff but after all your work a fill of oil and a filter is a good investment.

Disco1BFG said:

You are doing a great job there - and I'd trust you to do mine too



+1 - this is essential in my book - crank at least until oil light goes out - or you have consistent pressure on a gauge.

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A lifetime ago I made up a drive shaft from an old dizzy, powered by a drill, to pre-pump the oil on a Mini ...

Dippypud said:

A lifetime ago I made up a drive shaft from an old dizzy, powered by a drill, to pre-pump the oil on a Mini ...

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I think you can still buy something similar, where you take out the distributer and stick a shaft with a drive gear in to spin up the engine and get the oil around it.

More progress today, though I did spend the morning visiting an old work colleague. 86 now and starting to get pretty frail.

The sump was ready to go on, but the bolts were in a bit of a state.

On removal I'd put them straight in to a labelled sandwich bag, so they were still covered in old RTV, oil and road dirt.
This is where a lot of the time goes, cleaning things like this. Anyway, plenty of brake cleaner and wire wheeling and they looked like new.

Applied the RTV to the sump and gave it five minutes.

Then carefully sat it on the upturned block. The oil strainer/intake pipe must just be a few mm off the bottom of the sump.

Tightened the bolts down just with a socket in my hand, just a gentle nip up. Left it for an hour and then tightened them up to 25N.m Should be ok.
Gave the cam follower guides a good clean with brake cleaner, inside and out.

They are still in the correct order, but I'm not sure if all of the rollers are facing the same as they were. A few of them rolled out
I lubed the first one up, assembled it, checked the bore was still clean and tried to slide it it the engine. The roller and slide fell in to the cam bore and sat on the cam
Rescued them carefully with the long nose pliers and gave them another clean.
This time I slid the guide in first on it's own.

And gently located it in place with the screw. You can only put this in a tiny way or the roller and slide won't drop in.
A bit more lube on the slide and roller and they just slowly slide down in to place. The slides have an F cast in them to show which side faces the front of the engine.

I couldn't tell why this is important. The slides look identically, 180 degree symmetrical. Does anyone know the reason? Anyway, made sure these faces were all facing the front.
After that I just gently nipped the locating bolts in (14N.m according to the manual) Then added a big drop of engine lube in to the push rod seat.




The manual also says to fit new retaining bolts, but I can't see why? If anyone can tell me the reason why this is important, then I'll get new ones.

Saint.V8 said:

Using the assembly lube on all the metal to metal contact faces, i.e. The main and big end shells, coat the whole camshaft in it, rockers and shaft etc......this will provide lube until the galleries fill.....
Remember once it is all back in, disconnect the stop solenoid wire and crank the engine a few times to prime the pump and oil ways up to the turbo.

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I've used a lot of that Lucas engine lube, I reckon that's been a great shout Saint. It's remarkably 'sticky' and maintains a good film on the parts. This is particularly important for someone like me who is not exactly speeding through this rebuild. If I'd used engine oil a lot of it would have dripped on to the garage floor by now.
I'll certainly be watching the oil pressure light with the stop solenoid disconnected.

raywin said:

Yes that's a must, on petrol engines it's good to take out the spark plugs and spin it with the starter till the oil light goes off, so there is very little load on the engine as it brings the oil pressure up, filling the galeries is something some specialists do but don't worry I just mentioned it,
I still think it's a good idea to change the oil at 1000 miles after a re build especially when you have honed the bores, modern lubricants are light years ahead of the old stuff but after all your work a fill of oil and a filter is a good investment.

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I still haven't googled running in oil, am I making that up? If so, I certainly change the normal oil and filter after a 1000 miles. I'll google running in oil now

Timing kit arrived today.

For £20 hopefully it's better than drill bits for the uninitiated.

Following the piston stand up measurements I've ordered a no hole Elring gasket too.
I'm thinking of making sure the old gasket is clean and putting the head on with that and the old bolts, to get the clutch on and then lift the engine in. Then use the new gasket and new bolts for the final head fit.

My own opinion (and others might disagree) modern oils are so good the old break in oils are not needed, you have used the stickey build lube, try to get the oil circulating asap then you should be way in front of the way the engine was first run from the factory, change it early and you should be OK.