300 Tdi Rebuild

Al2O3 · Mar 29, 2017

Cheers gents.
One to add to the Parts list then.
There was nothing leaking through this seal. However, the bottom of the gasket was wet with oil, so I guess the crank seal must be leaking a bit. I did get the odd drip from the wading plug hole.

jamesmartin · Mar 29, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Cheers gents.
One to add to the Parts list then.
There was nothing leaking through this seal. However, the bottom of the gasket was wet with oil, so I guess the crank seal must be leaking a bit. I did get the odd drip from the wading plug hole.

the rear main cap joins tend to leak and have long been a land rover engine issue ,hence 200tdi large gasket that covers the entire rear of block rear housing covers , and that gasket fro the 300 rear seal ie it covers the joins at the rear but you need to ensure sealant for the sump covers bottom joins

Saint.V8 · Mar 29, 2017

Replace anyway as you have the engine out, technically as it has been removed it should be replaced anyway.....you'll kick yourself if you put it back on and now it leaks

Al2O3 · Mar 29, 2017

I'll definitely be replacing all the seals.

Al2O3 · Mar 31, 2017

Starting the strip down in the morning.
Any final tips, tricks, order of operations, things to look out for or, anything I shouldn't do!
Really looking forward to it.

Marmaduke · Mar 31, 2017

Remove the drain plug on the exhaust side of the block to drain any coolant, crack all the head bolts in turn a bit at a time and get loads of old towel and rags ready cos it'll drip for days when you take the sump off

As my drive will testify

Al2O3 · Mar 31, 2017

Marmaduke said:
Remove the drain plug on the exhaust side of the block to drain any coolant, crack all the head bolts in turn a bit at a time and get loads of old towel and rags ready cos it'll drip for days when you take the sump off As my drive will testify

Cheers, Marmaduke. Great tip, but I've already drained the coolant (JM told me about the drain plug) when I took the head off. Was thinking it was a head gasket, but turned out to be worse,
The Mrs has said I can have a few old bed sheets to go on the garage floor. The drive is already in a hell of a state!

Marmaduke · Mar 31, 2017

Stanley blades, engine degreaser/brake cleaner and blue Scott towel stuff from halfords would also be on my shopping list

Al2O3 · Mar 31, 2017

Marmaduke said:
Stanley blades, engine degreaser/brake cleaner and blue Scott towel stuff from halfords would also be on my shopping list

You're right and I haven't yet. Bad preparation

neilly · Mar 31, 2017

If you have a eurocarparts or GSF near you then buy Brake cleaner by the 5 ltr, also their spray cans are pretty good value, every week there are codes to buy it cheap on line or even get a washing up bowl filled with Diesel and a brush. I keep a couple of washing up bowls to use for drainage and holding parts.

Blue paper towel, do a search, I got a load from homebase last time, Get a lot as you will use it.....LOL.

Gloves , mechanics gloves are a good buy, I normally get 24prs for £12 on the bay.

Cheers

Al2O3 · Mar 31, 2017

neilly said:
If you have a eurocarparts or GSF near you then buy Brake cleaner by the 5 ltr, also their spray cans are pretty good value, every week there are codes to buy it cheap on line or even get a washing up bowl filled with Diesel and a brush. I keep a couple of washing up bowls to use for drainage and holding parts.

Blue paper towel, do a search, I got a load from homebase last time, Get a lot as you will use it.....LOL.

Gloves , mechanics gloves are a good buy, I normally get 24prs for £12 on the bay.

Cheers

I'll Google my nearest Eurocarparts and GSF. I don't have a spray can for the cleaner, so that's a great idea. Cheap washing up bowls too

neilly · Mar 31, 2017

If you do, then sign up to their emails.

They will annoy you but , you can get a good discount .
current codes that MAY work for you are eurocarparts : use SALE56 GSf : use SPRING52.

Hope it helps.

Cheers

Al2O3 · Mar 31, 2017

neilly said:
If you do, then sign up to their emails.

They will annoy you but , you can get a good discount .
current codes that MAY work for you are eurocarparts : use SALE56 GSf : use SPRING52.

Hope it helps.

Cheers

Cheers, neilly.

Al2O3 · Apr 1, 2017

Stopped for a mug of tea.
Next off is the FIP. I'm sure someone would have said by now, but as I'm having ten minutes I thought I'd ask as a double check. Can I just unbolt it or do I need to check/reference a position or anything linked to timing set up?

Al2O3 · Apr 1, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Stopped for a mug of tea.
Next off is the FIP. I'm sure someone would have said by now, but as I'm having ten minutes I thought I'd ask as a double check. Can I just unbolt it or do I need to check/reference a position or anything linked to timing set up?

Right, stupid question that. Ignore that post.

Saint.V8 · Apr 1, 2017

There are no stupid questions......

Just a query, why are you taking the FIP off?

Disco1BFG · Apr 1, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
There are no stupid questions......

Agreed 100%.

If you take the FIP off - take the pulley off the center boss ( held on by a 24mm (?) nut and held on the taper of the FIP shaft) - DON'T undo the nut and take the boss off - you'll loose static timing. See the diag below...No issue - but you'll need a DTI to reset it, and its work you don't need. .

In the above diag, if you remove the three bolts number 18, then the pulley number 16 will come orft... FIP will, after removing the nuts which hold it, then come out of timing cover from behind, revealing the gasket - which might be kaput.... so more bits for you shopping list... maybe...

Al2O3 · Apr 1, 2017

Saint.V8 said:
There are no stupid questions......

Just a query, why are you taking the FIP off?

Cos I've never done this before.

Disco1BFG said:
Agreed 100%.

If you take the FIP off - take the pulley off the center boss ( held on by a 24mm (?) nut and held on the taper of the FIP shaft) - DON'T undo the nut and take the boss off - you'll loose static timing. See the diag below...No issue - but you'll need a DTI to reset it, and its work you don't need. .

View attachment 120603

In the above diag, if you remove the three bolts number 18, then the pulley number 16 will come orft... FIP will, after removing the nuts which hold it, then come out of timing cover from behind, revealing the gasket - which might be kaput.... so more bits for you shopping list... maybe...

Thanks for the posts gentlemen. Lesson learnt there just in time, though my improvised crank pulley tool hasn't worked,

I had loosened the three nuts that hold the FIP on and the ones to the bracket on tot he block. Realised I couldn't take it off because it was still connected to the timing belt. Put the nuts back on.
Now I'm reading your posts I'm realising that the FIP will just stay connected to the timing belt housing and come away with that, is that right?

Disco1BFG · Apr 1, 2017

Al2O3 said:
Now I'm reading your posts I'm realising that the FIP will just stay connected to the timing belt housing and come away with that, is that right?

Yep, spot on! ( saves the gasket too !).

Al2O3 · Apr 1, 2017

Disco1BFG said:
Yep, spot on! ( saves the gasket too !).

Champion. I did have it loose on the three studs, will the static timing still be ok?

300 Tdi Rebuild

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Dyed-in-the-wool 100% RR Junkie

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads