200tdi oil light flickering. What next to check..?

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I've had the same problems. Changed sensor, 20/50 oil, oil squirts & then turns out to be the big end & main's shell's. I got to the shell's cos it's a disco 200tdi in a 90 but don't know what it would take to do a disco.
Mine only flash's on now when it's very hot on a hot day.
 
Just started on removing the sump this evening, to get to and replace the bearings.. I got the sump off, got covered in oil and found I could not get to the main bearings... :confused:
Do I have to take off the next layer to get to the bearings..? I thought that just removing the sump got me to the bearings..
If so, do I need any gaskets..?
 
JonnyP said:
Just started on removing the sump this evening, to get to and replace the bearings.. I got the sump off, got covered in oil and found I could not get to the main bearings... :confused:
Do I have to take off the next layer to get to the bearings..? I thought that just removing the sump got me to the bearings..
If so, do I need any gaskets..?
Click to expand...
yes you need to take the ladder frame out. gasket seal or silocon to put it back together.
be very thourough checking the crank for any minor damage, ive followed your thread from the beginning as had the same problem and changed the shells only to find after 30-40 miles the oil light came back.
James Martin is the man to speak to, he knows his stuff, i ended up taking my engine to him for a complete rebuild, he is very thorough and very reasonably priced
 
top-cat said:
yes you need to take the ladder frame out. gasket seal or silocon to put it back together.
be very thourough checking the crank for any minor damage, ive followed your thread from the beginning as had the same problem and changed the shells only to find after 30-40 miles the oil light came back.
James Martin is the man to speak to, he knows his stuff, i ended up taking my engine to him for a complete rebuild, he is very thorough and very reasonably priced
Click to expand...

Thanks for that TC :) Is the ladder frame the next layer to come off..?
 
got to give jonnyP his credit, he`s asking the right questions,
and not afraid of having a go at fixing it.

I too have rebuilt lots of engines over the years, but now seek inspiration through LZ as I`m too old at times to go outside and get oily.......


its life, I can take it,
I`ve had many years in training :)
 
JonnyP said:
Thanks for that TC :) Is the ladder frame the next layer to come off..?
Click to expand...
yes ,if its adisco engine you can remove it without removing gear box ,main bearings thebottom cap brg will be the worse worn con rod will be the top brg (big ends can look new in the cap were the top brg in rod is down to the copper )
 
jamesmartin said:
yes ,if its adisco engine you can remove it without removing gear box ,main bearings thebottom cap brg will be the worse worn con rod will be the top brg (big ends can look new in the cap were the top brg in rod is down to the copper )
Click to expand...

Thanks James. I bought both sets of bearings to (hopefully) replace, as well as some oil pump spares. I didn't get any main bearing bolts though. Is it ok to re-use the old ones..?
I will take some pics tomorrow
 
main bearing bolts you could use again as many times as you liked conrod several use a little loctite on both,check oil squirts are tight but be careful they snap easy
 
Interesting fred... Scratchy's oil light has been flickering on tickover since his dip on the plain. I thought it might be due to the fubared turbo, but I've changed that and it's still the same. Only just changed the oil so I'll give it a couple of months... Will be very interested to see the piccies!
 
ScratchyDom said:
Interesting fred... Scratchy's oil light has been flickering on tickover since his dip on the plain. I thought it might be due to the fubared turbo, but I've changed that and it's still the same. Only just changed the oil so I'll give it a couple of months... Will be very interested to see the piccies!
Click to expand...

Whats your engine tick over at? Should be around 900 rpm ...

Can't remember what causes it, but the bearing moves back, exposing the oil way and leaving a big gap between the cam and the block...

This causes low oil pressure on tick over. as soon as you rev the engine slightly the oil light goes out until back to idle again when the light will start to flicker again...

If this is the cause of your flickery light then you'll need to completely strip the engine down to have new bearings fitted!

AFAIK this has never been a problem on 300TDi's
 
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I got on well today, replacing the con rod and crankshaft bearing shells, but I didn't finish.

First up I removed the sump making sure I layed out all the bolts so they would go back the same, as there are different sizes.
I found that I did not need to jack up the car body or even remove the arms behind the dif. The sump came out no probs..
2012-12-02100727.jpg


The oil pump is the next thing to come off, just 2 bolts hold it on..
2012-12-02105847.jpg


Removing the sump leaves you with the ladder rack which needs to come off. Remove a few more bolts underneath and the 4 lower bolts on the back of the flywheel housing.. This is the ladder rack with the oil pump still attached..
2012-12-02100950.jpg


This is the ladder rack removed..
2012-12-02115423.jpg


Now I can get to the bearings..
2012-12-02115454.jpg


One of the con rods undone..
2012-12-02122004.jpg


This is what my old bearings look like.
2012-12-02152126.jpg


I have still got to strip the oil pump and look for the oil squirt, and then put it all back together..
 
brillient pictures jonnyP,
I can almost smell the acrid smell of long ago tightened bolts now undone :)

oh how I`m not looking forward to seeking my rattle,
one "month" soon..


by the looks of your copper showing, indeed your due for new shell bearings mate.


as an aside, my grey matter at last reminded me of a once oil light flicker problem i was in need to cure.....

turned out it was the wiring rubbed through,
and as oil light swiches work by earthing out (mostley)
the wiring was earthing out nicely in the engine bay.
ticky tape cured that oil light flicker :)
 
feel the crank with your finger nail if it feels scored you may well get away with having crank polished ,smooth a new set of bearings
 
easye1 said:
brillient pictures jonnyP,
I can almost smell the acrid smell of long ago tightened bolts now undone :)

oh how I`m not looking forward to seeking my rattle,
one "month" soon..


by the looks of your copper showing, indeed your due for new shell bearings mate.


as an aside, my grey matter at last reminded me of a once oil light flicker problem i was in need to cure.....

turned out it was the wiring rubbed through,
and as oil light swiches work by earthing out (mostley)
the wiring was earthing out nicely in the engine bay.
ticky tape cured that oil light flicker :)
Click to expand...
Cheers chap :)

jamesmartin said:
feel the crank with your finger nail if it feels scored you may well get away with having crank polished ,smooth a new set of bearings
Click to expand...
Too late now, its all back together. It all looked smooth though.

Well I got the job done, and its all working. I have not driven anywhere yet as I guess the silicon has to cure ? so I did not want to build up any pressure yet.
It wasn't the easiest job in the World, laying on me back on a cold floor using a head torch to see with, but it was fairly easy. I also changed the pressure relief spring in the oil pump while I had it out. All looked ok when I stripped the oil pump, but I never found the oil squirt thingy.
James.. When you said its off the oil gallery, where is the oil gallery..? Neither the oil squirt or gallery is mentioned in Haynes. I assumed it was gonna be part of the pump..

I will report back if its sorted my oil light or not..
 
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Took it for a spin..

The oil light is still coming on at idle.. :mad: Bollox :( Its no better despite doing all the work. I am really ****ed off
 
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