200tdi oil light flickering. What next to check..?

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i would service the whole car but i would deffo check the bearings as james martin suggests before changing the engine oil.
 
perhaps JM could write up an east to follow guide to change the bearings, as i think a lot could be interested in how its done
 
I am going to check the bearings, but not for a while, as its only just had an oil change and I am skint at the mo..
When I do get onto it I will do a load of photos so hopefully making it easier for others to see what needs doing..

Thanks for all the imput on this..

Are there any special tools needed for changing the bearings btw.. ?
 
no 15 mm bihex socket ,torque wrench ,bottle jack or something to jack vehicle as high as possible above axle ,good quality silicone or sealer for sump loctite for conrod nuts ,mainbrg bolts
 
jamesmartin said:
id agree with your thoughts on the servicing ,google stc3395 and rtc2993
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I went to order up these parts and had a surprise talking to the guy in the shop.. He said I cannot change all the bearing shells without taking the crank shaft out.
He also said my shells are probably ok as my engine is quiet and no rattles. He said I would hear knocking if the bearings were going.
He reckons my oil light is coming on during idle speeds due to oil leaking.

Any thoughts..? Is he right..?
 
Oil leaking? Leaking where?! :D

Naaa, afraid not. If the oil is leaking 'as such' internally then you'd have less that 12psi.

TBH after all this 12 psi seems good enough to me anyway, i used to get that sort of figure on my 70k Civic Type R engine at tickover, which shot up to 65psi at around 1000 rpm upwards...
 
Mr Noisy said:
Oil leaking? Leaking where?! :D

Naaa, afraid not. If the oil is leaking 'as such' internally then you'd have less that 12psi.

TBH after all this 12 psi seems good enough to me anyway, i used to get that sort of figure on my 70k Civic Type R engine at tickover, which shot up to 65psi at around 1000 rpm upwards...
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The engine is covered in oil, but there is only a couple of drips overnight. Something is making the light come on though..
 
Any leaks under pressure would eject all of the engines oil in a few minutes at most, so no, it's not a leak issue.

Loose bearings quite possibly, weak pump quite possibly.
 
JonnyP said:
The engine is covered in oil, but there is only a couple of drips overnight. Something is making the light come on though..
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Might I may a small suggestion before you start ripping things apart?

On a number of occasions I've come across cars with flickering lights at idle and found that replacing the cheapie oil filter with a good quality known-brand one has cured the problem.

For a £5 or so, what's to lose?
 
Mr Noisy said:
Any leaks under pressure would eject all of the engines oil in a few minutes at most, so no, it's not a leak issue.

Loose bearings quite possibly, weak pump quite possibly.
Click to expand...

Well I can certainly access the pump from the sump, so will get that cleaned out and serviced as best I can, check the bearings and then I will wack in a load of 20/50 mineral and see if that sorts it.
Its weird though, the light is never on with a cold engine, but once warm I have to keep the revs above 1200 to turn the light off, but sometimes I need the revs above 1500, so I will see the light on a lot more often.
Thanks for the input Noisy :)
 
alex8882 said:
you can remove the crank bearings without dropping the crank out, however I think to dothe big end conrod bearings then you would have to.
Ok here is a vid, yes different engine and i'm not saying you should do it this way, but gives you an idea
Daihatsu engine bearing failure - YouTube
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Cheers for that, will have a nosey :)

thebiglad said:
Might I may a small suggestion before you start ripping things apart?

On a number of occasions I've come across cars with flickering lights at idle and found that replacing the cheapie oil filter with a good quality known-brand one has cured the problem.

For a £5 or so, what's to lose?
Click to expand...
Certainly worth a try eh.. Thanks :)
The Mad Hat Man said:
have yu changed the sensor?
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Yes, that was the first thing I did..
 
JonnyP said:
Been searching and searching on this and I now understand way more than I did, but I still have an oil light on at low revs when the engine is warm..

The oil was changed and 10w/40 put in as the manual says.

I have changed the oil pressure switch, but that didn't help..
Today I went and got the oil pressure checked.
The car was not fully warm when we checked (drove 2 miles to the garage), but we left it to run for a bit, but the pressure readings did not change... I am running at 12psi on idle, going up to 45psi revving it up.

I do not know what to do next.. With my searching I found that I could try putting 15w/40 mineral oil in, and maybe some additive.
Can anyone recommend a good additive for this sort of thing..?

I also found that it could be the bearing shells, being worn, are letting the oil through once warm, and so dropping the pressure. Someone told me you can undo a plate on the side of the engine to access the bearings, and put a grub screw through to stop the shells moving about.. I do not understand any of that, but hopefully someone here will.

They guy in the garage told me I had pressure there and not to worry about it too much at the mo cos the light wasn't on all the time. He suggested I tried stretching the spring or packing out the oil pressure release valve, but he also said I would be better off talking to someone who knows land rovers..

Any help or thoughts appreciated.. :)
Click to expand...

The Mad Hat Man said:
have yu changed the sensor?
Click to expand...


Have you read the thread?
 
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