200tdi oil light flickering. What next to check..?

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nick25156843 said:
Hi did you ever get to the bottom of it as mine has just started to do it
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Not yet, but I have got the landy in the shed now so I can strip the engine and hopefully sort it out. I imagine its either the piston rings or the cam bearings. I might strip out the bottom end again and see if I can find the oil squirts, just so I can rule them out.
 
Hi I have the same problem - replaced the big ends and mains - showing copper like yours - no improvement. Cam bearings are in place, I checked via the removable plate on the crankcase. Did you ever solve it?
 
JonnyP said:
Not yet, but I have got the landy in the shed now so I can strip the engine and hopefully sort it out. I imagine its either the piston rings or the cam bearings. I might strip out the bottom end again and see if I can find the oil squirts, just so I can rule them out.
Click to expand...

piston rings wont effect oil pressure ,oil squirts or cam bearings will ,but you cant see cam bearing properly with cam in situ
 
You don't always see the problem fixed in the fora so to update my low oil pressure problem...I fitted a new pump and whilst so doing I noticed that the big nut which secures the oil pick-up pipe was only finger tight. The problem is now cured. Looking at the old pump I don't think it was that, I'll get round to measuring rotor clearance one day. I think it was the not-so-tight pick up tube... Something else to look at for folks on the trail of the tickover oil-light
 
Hi ,
I am having the same problem with my 200tdi 90 , lamp started to flicker ,changed the oil and after about 2 days it started again.So i decided to fit a new pressure switch and an electric pressure gauge, started the engine and pressure was about 25 psi revved it up and it went up to 40/45psi and left it running for about half an hour idling and pressure remained constant 25 psi.. Yesterday i went for test drive an after about 30 min driving the gauge started falling to the 0 psi region when i revved it up it went up to 20/25 psi .
Thi morning started back the truck and the same the gauge marked around 25 psi idling revved it up and it went up to 45 psi... The strange thing is that the bulb did not light up (new pressure switch)
Any help most appreciated
 
marwell said:
Hi ,
I am having the same problem with my 200tdi 90 , lamp started to flicker ,changed the oil and after about 2 days it started again.So i decided to fit a new pressure switch and an electric pressure gauge, started the engine and pressure was about 25 psi revved it up and it went up to 40/45psi and left it running for about half an hour idling and pressure remained constant 25 psi.. Yesterday i went for test drive an after about 30 min driving the gauge started falling to the 0 psi region when i revved it up it went up to 20/25 psi .
Thi morning started back the truck and the same the gauge marked around 25 psi idling revved it up and it went up to 45 psi... The strange thing is that the bulb did not light up (new pressure switch)
Any help most appreciated
Click to expand...
Faulty gauge?
 
marwell said:
Hi ,
I am having the same problem with my 200tdi 90 , lamp started to flicker ,changed the oil and after about 2 days it started again.So i decided to fit a new pressure switch and an electric pressure gauge, started the engine and pressure was about 25 psi revved it up and it went up to 40/45psi and left it running for about half an hour idling and pressure remained constant 25 psi.. Yesterday i went for test drive an after about 30 min driving the gauge started falling to the 0 psi region when i revved it up it went up to 20/25 psi .
Thi morning started back the truck and the same the gauge marked around 25 psi idling revved it up and it went up to 45 psi... The strange thing is that the bulb did not light up (new pressure switch)
Any help most appreciated
Click to expand...

Do you think its better to have a mechanical (capillary) gauge?
 
i had the same oil light used to flicker turned out to be a bad connection (****) on/in the spade end connecter on the sender
 
Last edited:
Just thought I should share this, I had a similar problem in 1976, as soon as the engine got warm the oil light would flicker around the 2500RPM range and would go out when rotating above this speed, it did progressively start coming on earlier and going out later after a few months. Turned out to be broken crank, cracked in the middle of central main bearing journal right where the oil way is. The engine ran fine for about 6 months under these flickering light conditions without displaying any other signs that would have suggested the catastrophic failure that eventually occurred at 60MPH when it eventually let go. I can only assume the reason the crank rotated correctly while cracked for so long was due to the profile of the surface through the crack , almost true like it was cut on a lathe around on the surface, but very jaggered below the surface, and again, can only assume all thrust bearings were within their specified tolerances, which prevented the crank halves from separating for such a length of time. Needless to say, there was nothing that was salvageable.
 
ssmn1234 said:
Just thought I should share this, I had a similar problem in 1976, as soon as the engine got warm the oil light would flicker around the 2500RPM range and would go out when rotating above this speed, it did progressively start coming on earlier and going out later after a few months. Turned out to be broken crank, cracked in the middle of central main bearing journal right where the oil way is. The engine ran fine for about 6 months under these flickering light conditions without displaying any other signs that would have suggested the catastrophic failure that eventually occurred at 60MPH when it eventually let go. I can only assume the reason the crank rotated correctly while cracked for so long was due to the profile of the surface through the crack , almost true like it was cut on a lathe around on the surface, but very jaggered below the surface, and again, can only assume all thrust bearings were within their specified tolerances, which prevented the crank halves from separating for such a length of time. Needless to say, there was nothing that was salvageable.
Click to expand...
Thanks for sharing that tale of woe, let us hope the problem marwell is experiencing is not so bad.
Interesting tale, though. I have never seen that, but I have seen a camshaft fail in a similar way, as you say, it continued to rotate due to the break being jagged. Not on a landy, think it was a Peugeot diesel.
 
awesome info from @jamesmartin. I've got this exact problem and my engine was rebuilt by a professional outfit.
I'm guessing I've a loose pickup or a loose squirter as the oil pump is new.

Will update once I confirm what oil pressure I actually have, but at the moment oil light is flickering at idle after a hard run, as happened when I was towing 3t the other day up a hill and stopped soon after.
 
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