2.5 ton paperweight??

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Datatek said:
Not all cars have exactly those numbers but a good place to start if things have been played with.
Click to expand...
They are the defaults in the Nanocom emulator !! As the Nanocom guide says, peeps should take a note of all settings, plus as you said never change anything you don't understand. They are really intended for programming a replacement ECU to match the old one.
 
modelman said:
It had to happen I suppose, playing with Nanocom just now, I think I f****d up bigtime.
Whilst in the EDC mode, checking the fuel modulation at operating temp I had a reading of 86%, engine running, not a million miles out I believe.
So, ah, whats this? Timing solenoid, whats that do then? pressed it & the engine revs went up, oooh, dont like that, press it again to go back, no difference! OK, ill press this, ELAB valve, engine stopped dead, pressed again, but no, no way could I go back to the beginning. Went back through all the menus to start again, but now it wont communicate with the engine ECU or the BECM!!
Have I finally managed to have my 2.5 ton paperweight after all????
Click to expand...

ELAB is the electrical stop valve. Not sure what ELAB stands for but activate that and it will stop any fuel getting to the engine.
 
pwood999 said:
They are the defaults in the Nanocom emulator !! As the Nanocom guide says, peeps should take a note of all settings, plus as you said never change anything you don't understand. They are really intended for programming a replacement ECU to match the old one.
Click to expand...
Really, I understood they could be used for fine tuning the fueling for emissions?
 
Flossie said:
12mm cranked deep ring spanner makes the fip nuts a doddle to loosen/tighten. I had to take the viscous fan off on mine to get the engine temperature up on a freezing cold day. Driving it wasn't an option, no mot, tax or insurance.
Click to expand...
A ready purchased unit, or do I need to crank it myself, i.e. cranked vertically or sideways?
 
Vertically. I had some cranked spanners but they weren't 'deep' enough. I got a cheap set from screwfix. I can have a look if I can find the link tomorrow or a photo at least if you like?
 
These.
Screenshot_20240826_215345_Edge.jpg
 
I think this P38 is out to 'get' me!!
Was about to turn the car around to get ready for the pump modulation reset thingy, put the key in & the dash told me the keyfob battery was low, went to start anyway, everything on the dash dimmed & very sloooow crank then click!!
EH? battery voltage 14.3, keyfob well over 6v, changed them anyway, no difference.
14+ volts to fusebox & starter, good continuity from batt neg to chassis etc.
Locks & unlocks perfect, all lights ok, but no horn?? Added a second battery plus a jump-starter, no difference, seems like a duff
connection somewhere, yes??
 
modelman said:
I think this P38 is out to 'get' me!!
Was about to turn the car around to get ready for the pump modulation reset thingy, put the key in & the dash told me the keyfob battery was low, went to start anyway, everything on the dash dimmed & very sloooow crank then click!!
EH? battery voltage 14.3, keyfob well over 6v, changed them anyway, no difference.
14+ volts to fusebox & starter, good continuity from batt neg to chassis etc.
Locks & unlocks perfect, all lights ok, but no horn?? Added a second battery plus a jump-starter, no difference, seems like a duff
connection somewhere, yes??
Click to expand...

Could be duff alternator?

There's a wiring test sheet somewhere on here and RR.net.
 
My 110 did the same, checked and cleaned all earth's and starter connections, no differance. Try jump leads direct to the starter in situ. Didn't improve things for me so starter removed and it was knacked.
modelman said:
Thanks for that, I have some similar, so I get them red hot & crank them a lot more, yes??
Click to expand...
I had some similar too but the crank wasn't deep enough. I'll take a pic with a measurement so you can see if what you've got already will do. Bear with....
 
modelman said:
I think this P38 is out to 'get' me!!
Was about to turn the car around to get ready for the pump modulation reset thingy, put the key in & the dash told me the keyfob battery was low, went to start anyway, everything on the dash dimmed & very sloooow crank then click!!
EH? battery voltage 14.3, keyfob well over 6v, changed them anyway, no difference.
14+ volts to fusebox & starter, good continuity from batt neg to chassis etc.
Locks & unlocks perfect, all lights ok, but no horn?? Added a second battery plus a jump-starter, no difference, seems like a duff
connection somewhere, yes??
Click to expand...
Put a jump lead from the battery negative to the engine block and see if that helps. If your DVM is showing 14+ volts when the engine is not running, then it's not a lot of good.
 
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