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You will have to loosen them to readjust if you are taking the rocker shaft off so it makes no odds.

Water can cause corrosion issues inside the injectors. Supermarket fuel is cheaper for good reason. They don't have the same additives and also tend to run their storage tanks down very low. I don't use them unless desperate and even then I only put enough in to get me to a decent fuel station.

Keep an eye on the oil levels. Hopefully its sorted but if not then dont run with elevated oil levels as it will eventually "run away" and kill the engine.

Once tight the wheel is supported by the back face of the wheel pushing on the mount plate. Simply remove the u shape bit and crack on. Mine was like that for eight years with no problems.

Yes you should hear the fuel flowing through the fpr. Some are louder than others. Take a long handled screwdriver and put it against the fpr with your ear on the handle and you will hear the fuel "squishing" through the regulator. It shows good flow rate from the pump.

Buy cheap - buy twice. The cps is a critical sensor which generates miniscule signal levels. Wherever possible buy oem as the cheap ones are cheap for good reason.

The crank position sensor should never actually contact the flywheel. It should be shimmed to get clearance. There is no correct clearance as each sensor/flywheel combo is different. The closer the sensor the stronger and more reliable the signal. Sometimes it is just trial and error to get it...

Most car turbos, even small ones, can produce up to 30psi with no modifications. However this does not mean your engine can take those pressures or that your ecu will let you before going to limp mode to protect the engine. Increased turbo boost results in very high exhaust gas temps which warp...

Much more than 1.1bar and you will be triggering limp mode on full throttle unless you have a boost box to fool the ecu. I ran mine at 18psi with no issues. Get a decent boost gauge to keep an eye on things.

I have a nice unused 6mm steel heavy duty Pressbrake bumper for sale if anyone wants it? PM me for details. For sale as I don't own my Defender anymore.

I know what you mean but I don't own my Fender anymore otherwise I would not have been so specific and you would still need to find the secret switch (assuming you even knew about it when trying to pinch my motor) which is not as easy as it sounds. There are a hundred ways to achieve the same...

Also don't try to wind them all the out in one go. Once they start to move undo half a turn and then back in a quarter turn. Then out half a turn again back in a quarter etc..... Try to feel if the plug is beginning to bind and then wind in again. Better a little at a time and taking a bit...

I would be looking at an electrical isolator switch for the pump rather than a mechanical valve on the fuel line. Simply because the pump could be running dead headed at full pressure (4 bar +) if you forget to open the tap. On my Defender I had a hidden switch fitted to the crank position...

Yep Clive don't make them anymore. It's a shame because you won't find better.

I used a Bearmach fuel pump with no issues. On comparing it with the knackered oem pump it seemed pretty much identical and just as well made. I guess you pay your money and take your chance with these things.

Get it plugged into a diagnostics such as Nanocom or Hawkeye and it will narrow the field in terms of what could be wrong.

If you have never done one then hard to say. Give yourself a full day and you should be OK. So long as all the bolts play ball I could change one in under two hours if time was of the essence. However I have all the tools and have done more than 10 TD5s before. I would allow myself half a day...

Ok.

If they used any at all ! If you can use a lathe you can turn some out of pretty much any old bolts or bar stock but they are cheap enough to buy the real thing. They were never designed to prevent head movement but just to aid head location on the engine production line. Steel dowels allow...