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Reet, go for 2" lift standard rate springs (****part yella uns). You can run up to 2" lift without changing yer shockers, as they are standard rate you'll prolly only get about 1 1/2" lift. I ended up putting 20mm rubber spacers under the turret tops to give the extra lift without having to...

Mine were like that until I sorted ignition out. Start up an it was lumpy as fook. Hold at 1500rpm fer about 5 secs, an it was up on all 8, set of and it were still a bit stuttery until temp gauge started to move. Sorted lectrickery and timing out an runs sweet as a nut (EFi so no carbs to...

Check yer timing. Move #1 to TDC and check the timing marks line up. Then run engine with a strobe, if timing is way out, you need a new timing chain. If timing is spot on, prolly fuelling issue.

Knocking at rear, I would say either upper trailing arm bushes (but that gives the feeling of the back end wanting to overtake the front) or A-frame balljoint. It could be where the balljoint is attached to axle and it's starting to peel away and needs welding up.

If your lifting it 2" you don't want to have higher spring rates, you need softer if anything. A mate of mine put 2" lift springs on his with higher spring rates, great when towing a 3t JCB, but normally the body didn't even compress the springs. Off-road, they were crap, I've got loads of...

Yup, change yer steering damper (horizontal shock absorber thingy) fer starters - they're only about £30...

Cracking idea that, never thought of that mesen.

You weld the 2 halves together then over plate to add a bit of extra strength/insurance/safety factor. When you weld it, the weld itself is strong enough, but any imperfections will lead to creep failure over time, plus any overheating in the HAZ will creep with time. Nearly forgot...

Boltmeup on fleabay sells stainless fasteners of various sizes including oddball bastid UNF/Metric jobbies the deCarbon shockers use.

My hybrid when it went fer it's first 'puterised MOT, it was listed as capacity 3528cc, fuel type heavy oil, even though it was out of an 87MY Vogue EFi.

Are you talking about the M12x100 bolt that goes through chassis rail that you bolt your guard to? If so, 5" grinder on both sides, 3/8 extension bar as drift, #1 URT (universal removal tool) an tw@t the fecker out. May have to jack it up and remove a wheel to get a decent swing.

Ooh, I wish mine was like that. Mine was too ready to kick down so I slackened off the cable going to the autobox and it's now very reluctant to kick down, which as you've found out is good for MPG. I don't like the vehicle kicking down, I just select the gear I want when needing more power...

I wondered what the fookin pink connector thingy was for, 'splains a lot!

Cheers fer that, will go an check it out :)

I went to Halfrauds when they had Kenwood units half price and popped one of them into me RRC. Haven't managed to get the subwoofer working right yet, as I believe it needs a separate amp, but ipod input, CD etc for £49 was a bargain. I have a Philips DC470 radio/cassette out of a Rover 216...

Aye, definitely sounds like a short or earth bonding prob. Before I rewired me deepender, I had a wierd problem where when I hit the brakes, me fog light came on as well and me foglight warning light on the dash. Looked at circuit diagram and worked out which earth bonding point was goosed to...

Deffo not enough voltage somewhere. Have you checked earth bonding points and engine earth strap?

95MY, most probably a Phillips. Have yer had a look through the owners manual to find out the model numbers?

Bottom of doors peut etre?

Aye well, had a "busy night" last night ;)