Sheared &%$*ing bolt!

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goonarmy

goonarmy

Beer tester
LZIR Despatch Agent
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Location
Hornchurch
Im having a right flap!Spent the morning trying to fit me steering guard (cheers raz-it looks the business) but in the process ive sheared the bolt that holds the steering arm on the drivers side!What do i do now apart from have a proper hissy fit?Help please!!
 
 
Drill an 'ole in the centre of the sheared bolt, screw the thing in (they're threaded t'other way), keep turning & sheared bolt comes out...........sometimes!

I've got a set that're just square section & tapered. You drill the right sized hole, hammer them in, stick a spanner on 'em & turn it. They're wicked!
 
Grippa said:
Drill an 'ole in the centre of the sheared bolt, screw the thing in (they're threaded t'other way), keep turning & sheared bolt comes out...........sometimes!

I've got a set that're just square section & tapered. You drill the right sized hole, hammer them in, stick a spanner on 'em & turn it. They're wicked!
Click to expand...
:eek: :eek: Gulp!These are the best way then?seeing as the bolt sheared in the first place i dunno if turning it again is gonna do me any good.bastid thing.Tried tons of realease agent and wd40-would heat help(not at the same time as wd40!)?Or anything else?tried inventing me own swear words to no avail.
 
WD40 isnt what you want to use, use Plus Gas

some of the links i gave you drill in to the stud so you don't have to pre drill them, and then bite on to the stud and extract it, have a close look at the ends, you use the drill in REVERSE all the time, so in reverse it will bite and extract all in one go, the other type you have to drill the hole first, and then use the extractor

Edit to add

the second ones although are more expensive, look like you can put a spanner on the ends, so if your drill isn't up to the job (torque wise) you can finish it by hand
 
Cheers dopey.Ill be off to get some of them tomorrow.Steering guard will have to wait but plenty of time to fix me fuses and headlight switch now....
 
ARGHH!!!!Easy outs arent gonna do it the only ones I could find are too small.Is there any other way?Could i drill the bastid bolt out?Dont wanna send it to the garage or one bolt but its looking that way!
 
Are you talking about the M12x100 bolt that goes through chassis rail that you bolt your guard to? If so, 5" grinder on both sides, 3/8 extension bar as drift, #1 URT (universal removal tool) an tw@t the fecker out. May have to jack it up and remove a wheel to get a decent swing.
 
Take5 said:
Are you talking about the M12x100 bolt that goes through chassis rail that you bolt your guard to? If so, 5" grinder on both sides, 3/8 extension bar as drift, #1 URT (universal removal tool) an tw@t the fecker out. May have to jack it up and remove a wheel to get a decent swing.
Click to expand...
nah not that one got that with just a bit of swearing and some elbow grease.that doesnt realy hold anything on so would'nt be fussed about that.The drivers side one 17cm long 14mm across with the 19mm head that goes throught the front steering arm!But Im reelly tempted to get the wheel off and employ the same tactic-and if it dont work ill feel a bit better for bashing it!
 
Take5 said:
Are you talking about the M12x100 bolt that goes through chassis rail that you bolt your guard to? If so, 5" grinder on both sides, 3/8 extension bar as drift, #1 URT (universal removal tool) an tw@t the fecker out. May have to jack it up and remove a wheel to get a decent swing.
Click to expand...

If it's the same as my disco and guard then it bolts onto the steering panhard rod it goes through the arm and a tube then you have bolted yer guard onto the inside.

Dunt cut fookal off, get down to b&Q and get a blow torch, one that works on propane mix that can braze, hot fooker. Heat it up red hot and cool it quick to shock it, do that a couple of times and then see if you can turn the bolt from under the wheel arch.

If that fails heat it up and pound it out from the inside. If you cut the head off the arm will come adrift and you will have fookal to hold it with.
 
yeah thats the one but the head has sheared off already so im preetty fooked!the motors up on axel stands at the mo so if i do get the bolt out i can jack the steering asembly back into place but it is looking like im gonna have to bash it cos there nothing to turn.The threaded end is still there and exposed.
 
Take5 said:
Are you talking about the M12x100 bolt that goes through chassis rail that you bolt your guard to? If so, 5" grinder on both sides, 3/8 extension bar as drift, #1 URT (universal removal tool) an tw@t the fecker out. May have to jack it up and remove a wheel to get a decent swing.
Click to expand...
Right once ive found a replacement bolt its gonna get bashed!Fooking thing!Cheers for the help fellas but it looks like brute force is goonna be me main tool for this bastid!
 
goonarmy said:
Right once ive found a replacement bolt its gonna get bashed!Fooking thing!Cheers for the help fellas but it looks like brute force is goonna be me main tool for this bastid!
Click to expand...

From what you tell me you will have enough threads on the inside if you take the nut off to turn it with stilsons, or vice grips, you might have to take your guard off completly though to get into it.

The tube where it is siezed into is only about three inches and should be a **** case to get it out. Follow my instructions above. Applied calculated force, not madness and injury or damage, and remember the proper phrases " come aff ya fookin bastord, take fookin that"

Any parts that may get unwanted heat wrap them in wet rags, and keep an eye on them, no point getting the bolt out and melting a track rod boot. also remember that heat goes up as well and look at everything above where you are heating and protect it as well. No fires.

If you have a pair of gloves wear them coz it saves the knuckles.

Coat the bolt with gold grease for the next time.

Ps next time you take the guard off just take the nut off, " yes I know, you fookin know that now".

Good luck. He He, done it maself a million times.
 
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