Search results

I had similar and it was the injector seals. I tried a few things on the way most mentioned here, except; There's little valves coming off the fuel pump. I took those out and checked them, replacing the anti-drain back one.

There's a little trick of prizing off the Landrover badge on the rear handle (use an old credit card) then squirting with loads of spray lubricant (EG WD40) Worked for me

Can't see the difference. Original LR one wasn't greasable, that lasted 10 years. A cheaper but greasable one has lasted 4!

Curses! Front prop failed (happened Tuesday and only got underneath today to check it out) Bearing shot to bits. Looked it up, the DLS one would have been 4 years old next month- not particularly impressive but it was a cheap one. Bought another cheap one just now from JGS for £175 next day...

Prob had them three times since then?!

Bought prop from; http://www.dls-uk.co.uk Couple of years ago (about £200 delivered)

My front prop was vibrating (slowly getting worse) Changed the whole thing for a new one (easy job) The old one showed signs of clean shiny metal in the joints where it'd been moving about.

One step forward at least- mechanism on order.

Had my D2 for 12+ years. No ACE fitted (S model) and never missed it. I tend to keep things original on mine but don't think you'll ruin your ride. I don't throw it around all over the place but I do drive the thing. 146k miles done and tows fairly regularly with no issues (either my small...

I think at least 50% of attempted repairs end in leaking again. Just replace it!

There is a rubber seal that goes between the hub and the casing. It could be leaking. More likely (unfortunately) the hub itself is letting oil through onto the brake discs etc. Either way it will smell of Diff oil if so. Try the seal if you can, if not its new hub time. (Mot failure btw if oil...

All Discos Defenders and RR's are the same- 3500KG I tow an Ifor (1100kg) and two horses (550kg ish each) so only totalling 2200kg, no where near the limit. As said the 85% is a guide not the law. Useful article from Parkers...

Should you get the tracking checked after changing the drag link? I did.

If it just clicks when the ignition is turned that's classic starter motor contacts worn out. Very cheap repair that! Though can be challenging spanner-work!

I think you'll find it only stops leaking when it's "run out"

He's right, it is simply better. I've had my D2 12 years and only had one issue with the SLS. I tow a horse trailer and it's the best I've towed with (3rd LR, 1st SLS)

If it's totally collapsed and won't re-inflate I doubt he'd get over 10 mph without rattling his teeth out. I drove a mile in mine with the rear flat and it was bone shaking. Emergency only I would suggest.

I would try the seal, but it'll prob be the hub. If hub- have new stake nut(s) and new brake disc retaining screw(s) to hand. 1 hr job to change a hub once you've got the tools and read up on it!

Do it! Just put one in mine (other car already had one). Possibilities of better performance AND it will pay for itself eventually.

Have you had water get in? What is the state of the connector that one you fixed plugs into?