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Make sure the hand brake drum cover is secure. I didn't, and mine got away during my test drive. Sounded like hell broke loose underneath the defender.

Sorry about the double post above. ^^

My Defender is a 2004 model so I doubt that will be the case here. Took the cover off couple months ago and found nothing unsual in addition the oil was clean with no bits of metal. No excess slack on the transfer box when examined either. IMHO this does not feel of behave like it is drivetrain...

My Defender is a 2004 model so I doubt that will be the case here. Took the cover off couple months ago and found nothing unsual in addition the oil was clean with no bits of metal. No excess slack on the transfer box when examined either. IMHO this does not feel of behave like it is drivetrain...

Props are not binding, I can confirm ujs to the front are good and one on the rear prop (transfer box side) is new. I know they should be replaced in pairs but I was short for time plus the other uj had shown no signs of wear at the time. Continuing....front diff replaced with one in excellent...

Greetings, Would a defender 110 which is lifted 2" need a modified a-frame ball joint to compensate for angle brought on by the lift or would a standard joint work fine? I replaced my a frame joint 1 year ago (Delphi) but i am still experiencing a judder upon take up of drive. (Oh, all bushes...

I was getting a nasty clunk/crunching noise plus a stiffness and jerking in the steering and it turned out my front diff was shot. Took it off and discovered all hell had broken loose inside. Literally. In it's early stages its symptoms of failure were not easily recognized as diff related.

I take it the general opinion is that Britpart SuperGaz are pretty decent then? I was strongly considering going with the Old Man Emu Nitrocharger sport but was wondering if it would make more sense going for the pocket friendly SuperGaz. 6 years is excellent in my opinion even though in my part...

Greetings guys, Engine: 300tdi Next week I'm removing the sump to re-seal. Any suggestions as to anything else I should do or check for while it is off?

Greetings, I seem unable to find an answer to this question by searching. I have a 110 (Td5 chasis & axles) with what I suspect is a worn rear diff. I swapped the front final drive out earlier this year for one from a 1994 Disco1 as the front diff was severely worn at the cage and spider gears...

Thanks for the comprehensive replies. Would these being torn/damaged affect performance in anyway? I figured so due to them being the intake to the air cleaner. The only one who can appreciate the "look" of the silicone hoses in that location would be me as I am constantly under it.:D

Greetings, In my attached image there are two hoses labeled 6 & 7. These form part of the 300tdi intake. The section labeled (7) on my intake is torn. Can these be replaced with silicon hoses by any chance or do I have to resort to the original type hose? Seems a tad expensive to be honest...

Managed to replace the bearings on the front passenger side after determining they were the worst. With the new bearings I was able to tighten the lock nut fully and still acheive a freely spinning hub. Will tackle the other side tomorrow. Thanks for the info as usual.

Brilliant. Thanks for the response. I'm not in your part of the world and even though my "mot" equivalent is not as strict as yours you are absolutely correct. I am installing new bearings hopefully tomorrow. The last couple times I adjusted the current worn ones if I drew the locking nut...

Hi, Are there part numbers for those spacers that go in between the inner and outer wheel bearings on the TD5 axles? (Defender). Land Rover manual lists the various sizes that are to be used dependant on the end float measured by dial gauge after tightening up lock nut. I can't seem to find much...

I've had the best results after removing the top and bottom cups ( what you described as dishes) from the axle. This way there is nothing to inhibit the washers and the nyloc nut can be drawn fully onto the bushes. Some manufacturers of dampers actually reccommend removing them in some applications.

I had this identical issue with the "knocking". After both tightening the nuts and washers on the damper and replacing the bushes the improvement was minor. The solution? As recommended by some suppliers of aftermarket suspension, I undid the damper bottom screws, removed the lower bushes...

Take the opportunity to renew the oil seal at the flange for the "new" diff. Chances are if it was sitting around for a while the seal might not be in the best condition. In addition, when you remove the old diff clean the axle housing out thoroughly of any fragments and debris.

A broom stick worked for me to keep the pedal down, then I used two 13mm spanners which I put on a grinder to give them a thinner profile to fit. Very straightforward job just requires a little patience. Adjust until bottom of pedal is approx 14mm from floor I believe.

The last clutch system bleed procedure I did was in reverse. Using some see-through tubing I attached a pump action oil can filled with clutch fluid to the open bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and pumped until the master cylinder reservoir was full. After trying the traditional method of...