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The rear tub on the 110CSW is actually welded to the sill channel (below the second row door) which is i turn bolted to the body cross member. Or at least it was on mine when i took it off. Thats what makes lifting the tub difficult even with all the tub bolts removed;)

I managed to get a decent second hand TD5 take-off for £50 when i did mine - easy enough job to fit and a lot less hassle than the reseal option, which i believe is often not always successful ;)

Give it a good check over when you replace the springs. Sometimes the ball (which is what actually stops the selector rod moving) can get jammed in the drilling so that its is not pressing properly against the selector rod and holding it in place. Its not that much more effort to take the...

missed this one but count me in next time, I'm in the medway area an i got some brownie points to cash in..:D

you'll be lucky to get all the bits individually on ebay unless you're not in a hurry, like the man says u need to find a scrapper. bits u'll need are; rear tub side panels 2nd row doors b posts body cross member 110 csw sill rails (i think) bits that fit to the roof above 2nd row doors seats...

you need to get a second opinion, they may be able to be patched rather than replacing the whole thing, which would be a lot cheaper. When mine failed i patched one and replaced the other, but only because it disintegrated when i put the welding torch on it:D

If the rod won't move at all its vry likely an interlocking problem. Check the selector detent balls and springs and interlocking pins are all greased, moving and working right. I had a similar problem caused by one of the selector rods sliding back when parked on a hill and in neutral...

lol, find your local back street sheet metal place not some rip off on fleabay, i got a sheet for £15, cut it to size with the opening for the wiper mota jobsa a good un. You could probably get plain ally if ya don't like chequer plate bling;)

i use a bit of old scrap 2mm galv steel angle section on the bottom of mine, welded it all the wayy along then repaired the cracks o n the wheel carrier strengtheners. Chuck the crappy door card away and screw a sheet of alli checker plate on the inside of the door and it stiffens the whole...

cheers for the replies, glad to see that others have successfully done this, i was beginning to think i was the first one:eek: and it might not work. Cutting and moving existing brackets sounds a lot easier, i wonder if the disco mounts would slot into em when they are in the right place or...

Cheers for the offer but the defender ones are different i believe. I am fitting a disco engine and gearbox to my 110, the disco gearbox is longer and therefore sits further forward in the engine bay so needs the chassis brackets fitted in the right place. I want to get the correct set up...

Welcome, You're in the right place if you're doing your Landy up, sounds like a proper one too - a meccano kit of bits, just as they should be.;) Ad

Nah its the angle brackets on the chassis that the mounts go into. They would av to be cut off with a spinner. Ad

Anyone got an engineless 200tdi disco chassis hanging around that i could have the engine mounting brackets off of? - i need em as i'm finally getting round to fitting a disco 200tdi + box to my 110. Moneys tight so i can't afford too much, looking for a favour here for some beer tokens. I'm...

You have a long stick:eek: There are lots of threads covering this mate but essentially you will need to get a replacement LT77 from a defender. All 4 cylinder 90/110 defenders up to 1993 used it, 300 tdi onwards used a different one. The disco one won't fit as its got a longer bellhousing. Ad

That spring needs to be under load pushing up against the yellow knob, else it probly won't pop up. One end pushes against the yellow knob the other end against a small plate on the tranny tunnel. A New spring will also help, as they weakenover time. Ad

If you have a decent Landy garage/parts supplier place near to you its worth going down and talking to them, they will tell you which parts are any good. Our local one does sell Britpart stuff but only the stuff that can't really go wrong, for other parts like Brake master cylinders, seals and...

Have u tried replacing yer detent balls n springs ? easy job u can do it with the box in place, just take the floor n tranny tunnel out, three bolts on the top of the box. Even if it doesn't cure it, you've lost nothin as they cost about 5p each or somethin and it only takes an hour or so.

Anyone else tried anything like this - reason i ask is that i have knackered SIII servo powering RRC disk brakes, and the braking is poor,when it should be very good. I could repair that SIII servo but i get the feeling a defender or RRC servowouldgive more oomph?

I believe the normal route for this is to use a RRC chassis with 12 inches cut out of the middle and a series rear x-member added, the series body then fits on with minor mods. My Lightweight has this configuration, its on a Q plate, so i suspect you may have to go down that route. Easy job...