110 CSW centre cross member

chezvegas · Feb 21, 2012

Hi all,
I tried a search on this but couldn't find anything, might be just down to my iPhone.
I am going to replace the centre cross member on my 110 CSW as it has a hole in it and was wondering if anyone had done this before, can't find anything in any manuals about replacing it. As far as I can tell its take off the outer panel next to the centre doors and then undo all the bolts and slide out. Anyone let me know if their is anything I need to be aware of or an order any of the parts should come out in,
Cheers
Craig

Pikey · Feb 21, 2012

Well first thing would be to search for 110 csw outrigger renewal. As that is what it is not the crossmember..

Retroanaconda · Feb 21, 2012

He probably means the center body crossmember which is, as the name sugests, a crossmember

To replace it the usual method used to be to cut the new one in half and weld it back together in situ. Nowadays you can buy ones with the brackets seperate so that it can be slid in through the side as you describe.

053 Land Rover Defender 110 Mid Crossmember

chezvegas · Feb 21, 2012

The part I am replacing for seems to be called centre cross member on a few sites,

John Craddock LTD

Crossmember 110 CSW NRC4171 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

Britcar (UK) Ltd > NRC4171 CROSSMEMBER REAR FLOOR DEF110 (P)

It bolts on above the chassis and supports the floor beneath the 2nd row seats.

Sirus · Feb 21, 2012

I don't know but have to do mine so look forward to your instructions along with photos on how to do it.

benpalmer · Feb 22, 2012

I looked into these a while ago, and I’m currently in the process of swapping new for old mid x member (in a round about kind of way).

When I did my research many people advised that the rear tub needs to be propped up in order to get the new one in. This is done by undoing the bolts through the tabs at the rear. Removing the bolts through the base of the tub and into the mid x member itself. Then undo the bolts connecting the roof and b pillars (more roof bolts may need to be taken out in order to lift the lot). You may wish to take out the 2nd row floor also. That’s all I can remember removing but there may be a couple more.

I cut the old one into bit to get it out. I also brought my mid x member from YRM metal and it has the removable brackets to aid fitting, even with this I couldn’t work out how to get it in without lifting the tub. So in the end I removed everything from bulkhead back, this is a very extreme approach but I figured I’d properly end up doing it at some point as I plan and doing up the whole thing.

Hope this helps

pressbrake · Feb 22, 2012

Its easy, when I make the member I leave the ends of the channel open so it slides through then weld the chassis mount brackets on inside the channel

Big green snail · Feb 23, 2012

I fitted a YRM one last year, easy, no body lift. Seats out centre floor up. Cut/bash/sweep the old one out. May need to hacksaw rear bolt heads off. "Simply slide" new one in, it might need a whack, but don't go silly the fuel lines pass over the cross member.
You might find some ally corrosion on the seat box, so prepare for some patch repairs with ally sheet and pop rivets.
Easy job, go for it!

iguana · Feb 23, 2012

I did mine recently, got the one piece one from Craddocks.
Took out side panel- no way would it go in.
Then ground off the brackets (drilled through them first so I could bolt them back on ) - again would not go in.
Tried lifting the tub (I have a 110 CSW) after undoing and grinding off endless rusty bolts still could not lift tub (must have missed some ).
Now getting really ****ed - chopped the bastard in half and it fitted in ok through side panel (but still tight and fiddly).
Bolted to chassis and welded it up in the center, as its bolted securely to the chassis the weld is not load bearing , just makes it look neater.
Good luck

Landy-ads · Feb 24, 2012

The rear tub on the 110CSW is actually welded to the sill channel (below the second row door) which is i turn bolted to the body cross member. Or at least it was on mine when i took it off.

Thats what makes lifting the tub difficult even with all the tub bolts removed

Retroanaconda · Feb 24, 2012

It's not welded, but it is riveted to the C-pillar at the end of the sill member, and there is a tab on the same pillar that extends over the tub, stopping it being lifted straight off.

This is the reason YRM make their one in bits, as above much easier

Beneagles · Mar 6, 2012

Seems to be the season for this! Removed the outriggers in order to replace them and found that little bits of the crossmember aren't there no more! Did wonder if anyone makes a square section "cover" that would bolt on over the existing member???? If no, then looks like the YRM one is the way to go.

chezvegas · Apr 18, 2012

I have ordered the YRM one so am planning to fit it in the next few weeks. I will do some pics and put them on once done

firedamper · Jan 5, 2016

Have today attempted the mid X member replacement. Td5 double cab pick up btw. Hardest part is removing the rear floor , once removed the jobs a doddle. The old one just falls on the floor ( few harsh words and a hammer ) and the new one WILL slide in. Had to grind and small piece off a bracket not being used (CSw??) used the YRM one wire separate mounting brackets. Couldn't do it this way otherwise.

110 CSW centre cross member

chezvegas

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Pikey

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Retroanaconda

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chezvegas

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Sirus

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benpalmer

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pressbrake

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Big green snail

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iguana

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Landy-ads

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Retroanaconda

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Beneagles

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chezvegas

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firedamper

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