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you've been under too many defender bonnets unless he's fitted power steering i personally would slacken the three bolts that hold the footwell/steering box support to the chassis as well or when you try to push the bulkhead forward you'll be trying to distort the footwell which will at least...

i'm tempted to say your clutch release bearing has collapsed/siezed and melted the carrier, this allows the slave to go to full extension and then it's game over seen it more than once

centre bottom of that crossmember would usually have a hole to allow water to drain back out i think (i'm not crawling under my 109 as i'm dying at present)

galvy chassis can and do rust eventually, remember that galv is a sacrificial coating but it doesn't last forever how many rusty cappings and windscreen frames have you seen ?? and those don't generally have dirt/damp sitting on them for extended periods of time, a galvy chassis should really...

i would advertise/ask on every landy forum you can find a couple of times a year in the hope that someone has a gearbox laying about with a clutch sleeve still attached

the only reference i've seen to the possibility of a new clutch sleeve for a toro was in a thread on AULRO two or three years ago where a chap was talking about getting a batch manufactured, i don't think anything came of it though :( as i don't remember seeing any further updates

you had more snow than me, not that i care, i'm feeling too old to appreciate snow any more :lol:

all the rr/fl/rover ones are the same near as makes no difference but it needs to be a thermotop Z/C (C is the important bit as far as i can make out from memory), you'll then need a dosing pump (40quid or so), an exhaust and a controller panel (100quid i think from the canal boatyards from...

and less than half the price of the webasto water heater as used in barges/landrovers/most modern diesels i have a webasto coolant heater and dosing pump but no controller, just the controller is expensive, nothing comes for free Robin has sorted out a very good deal for those that want to...

they can definitely still be bought new just about anywhere, the only part of the S3 diesel throttle cable set-up that can't be bought is the bulkhead anchor (easy enough to make)

i do the same as Mick2a sometimes but to be honest as long as it's wedged or strapped down securely i really wouldn't worry about it sitting on the sump, i walk them in and out of my garage on the sump without causing them any damage, i brought a 19j back to the midlands from south wales in my...

i've always figured that would be the most economical gearing/power plant if staying with spark ignition engines, tempted to go that way someday with a 109 and strap a couple of lpg tanks underneath

i "think" they would have been bronze green but i'm not sure (i do know grey body would have had grey wheels though), it doesn't really matter to most though as they look good with either BG wheels or limestone

the only ones i know of that need a spanner are MAPs, they look good but can give trouble if not maintained correctly the body is all aluminium and each one has four steel pawls in them, if there is no oil in them you'll suffer the pawls getting stuck in the disengaged position (been there...

to date i've never cut a dumb iron off before making up a jig to realign the new one in the correct place, luckily so far i haven't had a chassis come my way that's so rotten that they've collapsed completely britpart dumb irons regularly seem to fit incorrectly so i quite often cut them about...

i think your only chance will be Richards Chassis or put a wanted advert up and get someone to hack one (two) out of a rotten chassis i personally have never seen that section advertised

271Model: Land Rover, Series IIA Body type: Basic or Station wagon Wheel base: 88in Engine: diesel Model years: 1962-1971 Destination: Home market, right-hand drive (RHD)05421Serial numberCDesign: Two significant design modifications Suffix used from April 1966 till April 1967 as taken from...

this is probably the best picture i have showing the headlight mounted in a '65 panel, as you can see the headlamp unit is mostly exposed to the elements and just has two rings that clamp together holding the unit to the panel, three screws with small springs locate it, the screws are quite long...

if the hub seal had let go he'd find oil in his brake drum

the AVMs are unlikely to have anything to do with the wheel seizing or making knocking noises, i've a pair on my 109 and another pair on my 88" and they're nice simple robust items that give very little to no trouble as long as they get a bit of oil, i think the early ones with the shallow caps...