Bulkhead Adjustment

stag888 · Mar 18, 2015

Hi,
I have an issue with drivers door , it really doesn't shut well , good gap at door top , but none in the main door body basicall totally butted up at the rear checked the opening against the passenger side & found it was about 6/7 mm narrower, which makes sense . Checking previous threads the solution seems to be adjust the bulkhead , basically move it forward on the driver side bottom ,will give it a go .. however I've not been able to find a definative thread with exactly what I need to loosen . I'm keen to get a sense check on what I think before I start . Loosen....

Roof /Windscreen bolts
Windscreen / Bulkhead bolt by heater controls
Driver floor / Footwell bolts - Take floor plate out basically
Big horizontal bulkhead / chassis bolt
3 bolts on bulkhead bracket attached to chassis by steering box
Perhaps remove sills
loosen wing

So far that's what I have planned , after which I planned to use a bottle jack braced with wooden blocks againest the rear bulkhead & a pry bar at the horizontal bulkhead bolt to create the movement I need & then shim that bolt with washers to maintain the extra gap .
Does that sound right ? and have I missed anything , I,m particularly worried there are more bolts connecting it to the chassis . Currently I only know of the 4 . Any guidance/photos or links must appreciated .
Cheers
Steve

tottot · Mar 18, 2015

Have you tried adjusting door hinges? The door gap from bulk head to tub should be the same at the bottom and at top hinge position 34 and a half inches. Get it right at the bottom first,washers at bulkhead/outrigger then its moving three bolt bulkhead/chassis bracket to correct the top gap. Could it be outrigger has been replaced?

trax · Mar 18, 2015

tottot said:
Have you tried adjusting door hinges? The door gap from bulk head to tub should be the same at the bottom and at top hinge position 34 and a half inches. Get it right at the bottom first,washers at bulkhead/outrigger then its moving three bolt bulkhead/chassis bracket to correct the top gap. Could it be outrigger has been replaced?

34.5 inch door gap sounds about right

stag888 · Mar 18, 2015

Hi
Just checked door side is 870mm or 34 1/4" on driver side & 880mm or 34 5/8 " on passenger side which has a perfect gap & shuts like a Rolls Royce . Also the gap at the front of the drivers door is good , to move that forward would just be shifting the problem I think . You may be right I'll have a double check on the out rigger , that may have been the cause ,
Cheers
Steve

tottot · Mar 18, 2015

That gap is to tight, Remove bulkhead outrigger bolt, loosen chassis rail to bulkhead bracket,wind screen to bulkhead mount,floor panels,been a while but I think adjustment for sills is at the tub but it may be easier to pack it at the front.
You may have to loosen wing at the front and underneath. good luck

crashbox · Mar 18, 2015

Look under the vehicle, below the front of the door. You will see an outrigger. At the outer end, loosen the long bolt, remove it and shim it out to the size with washers. Replace the long bolt with the washers at the forward end of the outrigger to pull the bulkhead forward.

nickjaxe · Mar 18, 2015

Are all the measurements documented somewhere...or do you guys just know them from memory???

Need to set mine up sometime soon.

tottot · Mar 18, 2015

From memory but just measured my 90 and am right.

stag888 · Mar 20, 2015

Just took another look at that front driver side again in preparation for getting the spanners out this weekend , and thought what about the steering , that seems quite locked in I'm looking at a 10mm max move of the bulkhead forward , do you think I need to do anything , loosen anything off , or do you think it has the flexibility to move ? .
Cheers
Steve

tottot · Mar 20, 2015

You may need to slacken UJ on the steering colume so it can slide down the splines a bit.

NiteMare · Mar 20, 2015

tottot said:
You may need to slacken UJ on the steering colume so it can slide down the splines a bit.

you've been under too many defender bonnets unless he's fitted power steering

i personally would slacken the three bolts that hold the footwell/steering box support to the chassis as well or when you try to push the bulkhead forward you'll be trying to distort the footwell which will at least double the effort you have to put in and the bulkhead will probably try to sit wonky

if anything with the sill i'd undo/slacken the two bolts holding the front of it to the bottom of the wing allowing the wing to slide forward that 1/4" before retightening

stag888 · Mar 22, 2015

Thanks for that , the list of things to loosen grows ever longer ... had hoped to give it a go this weekend , but am mid changing the rear tub floor , and that ended up taking much longer to do than I'd hoped . Shall give it a go next weekend & let you know how I get on .
Thanks again for the advise
Steve

tottot · Mar 22, 2015

NiteMare said:
you've been under too many defender bonnets unless he's fitted power steering

Your right NiteMare, forgot which section I was in,having a 90 and a series does not help.

Bulkhead Adjustment

stag888

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tottot

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trax

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stag888

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tottot

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crashbox

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nickjaxe

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tottot

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stag888

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tottot

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NiteMare

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stag888

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tottot

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