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The battery won't affect the running speed that will be ignition, carburettor or air flow. Probably all three. First to check and set would be points gap and timing.

Pull the tunnel up and have a look. There should be a rubber-oring that sits in a groove at the end of the gear stick. They don't last for ever. Easy enough to replace. You might even be able to do it without removing the floor.

My new Richards chassis would not take the front bumper from my SWB. ****ed off, I thought Richards had made a balls of the chassis. I tried another bumper I'd got for my LWB and it popped on no problem! It would be interesting to find out if someone has the "official" measurement for centre to...

Coil is probably fine. Check from the metal in the king pin to one of the terminals that should measure <20k (i.e. 20,000 put it on the 4th resistance setting). More likely to be points, condenser, plugs or leads...or not ignition! A simple multimeter check won't check for shorted turns in the...

Or maybe different brakes?

Tape measure and tippex pen works well enough for me...better than all the laser bollix at various garages that have all set it wrong!

If you do you'll need earplugs. I got one for my petrol and it was LOUD. Ended up taking it off after a couple of weeks and swapping for a Steve Parker...which was quieter to start with but suddenly got louder one day on the motorway.

I did that the first time - big tie wraps were stronger and didn't cut my face and fingers open when I clumsily managed to release the whole thing into my teeth! Modern jubilee clips seem to all be made of some sort of mixture of cheese, lead and monkey metal.

It's likely the steering relay, mine was stiff and caused horrid sitcky, heavy, dangerous steering. After freeing it off its a lot nicer to drive and can go in a straight line on the motorway instead of a series of zigs and zags. I ended up rebuilding mine in-situ the first time (swapped...

Which Weber the 34ICH is (usually) on a series manifold the DTML32/34 on a defender manifold.

It might be worth downloading the parts catalogues for both S3 and 90 and see what bits you have to start with. What carb do you have, and what's up with the old manifold? D

To get shear bolts off use a dremel to cut a groove in the head and get a screwdriver on it. Not sure how you get the barrel out but let us know when you;ve worked it out as I need to swap mine - I have the opposite problem. Any key will start mine, or at a push a thumb nail...

Download the service manual from http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/ page 47-1 tells you what you need. There should be marks on the prop.

ujs are more or less a service item and can be had for not too much money. Don't get the very cheap ones but a proper brand. The thing that condemns a prop shaft is if there is too much play in the slide section.

It fits but the exhaust flange and carb flange are different. I'm not sure if a series inlet will mate with a defender exhaust either. I swapped the other way (2,5 onto a series to fit a new carb) and the main difference is the exhaust flange. To confuse matters there are two different exhaust...

I'd not worry too much, on my old bus and when I first bought my Landy the wheels were constantly wet with the stuff and I always get it everywhere when I bleed them. It is worth cleaning off though as it gets flung everywhere.

Either you've got the wrong type of coils they should be 12V ones (not ones that require a ballast resistor) and should measure about 3 ohms across the primary. The other thing you might have done is set the points gap wrong. A dwell meter is worth getting but have a good study of how to set the...

Thanks Chris, It certainly looks good. Those areas on both of mine are just held together by rust and vinyl - I was hoping you'd found a source of bottom bits...looks like I'll have to make up my own! D

I like that Chris, did you fabricate the new metal part or buy it somewhere? I like the biggerer blower holes too...

It sometimes takes a couple of goes to get the heater working properly but it seems to sort itself out after a couple of drives on mine. I just fill through the rad, occassionally squeezing the top hose until full. The just keep topping up the expansion bottle.