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The engine has to come out, that's for sure...: http://www.lrforum.com/forum/uploads/monthly_01_2013/post-1170-0-87167600-1357737505.jpg

Something hard must have hit spark plug #4: http://www.lrforum.com/forum/uploads/monthly_01_2013/post-1170-0-56488600-1357589416.jpg

Thanks for the link :) This method is worth trying. Will save a lot of work, I think.

The engine has seized so regardless what it is it has to come out. I think V6 is shorter so it has probably more room to move over to the right?

I just bought a 2004 SE with a broken K-series engine. I drained three liters of water from the crankcase. The crankshaft bearings are probably ruined. Is it possible to take the engine out leaving the gearbox in place?

OK Nickcc :) Martin1512's reply is even more more rubbish but still not removed :rolleyes:

I called the owner and asked him about how the problem occured. He told me they lost drive while towing a horse trailer. He assumed that the clutch was broken and had it replaced. This did not cure the problem so it seems more than likely that the fault lies either in the gearbox or the IRD.

I have been offered a project FL which according to the owner's description has two main problems : - Engine oil pressure light won't go out after the engine is started (K-series engine). - No drive neither forwards nor backwards with gear engaged and clutch released. I believe I can just...

The viscous coupling fluid is in the "Transmission" section on this page: Automotive Solutions - Automotive Lubrication - Dow Corning

Thread a grease nipple into the hole and fill the unit with silicone using a grease gun. Dow Corning can supply the fluid: https://www.xiameter.com/en/Pages/LandingPage.aspx

The housing has warped, apparently. Replace it and it will be OK. Or try to seal it with RTV silicone.

I am trying to work out where a noise from the front lh side (driver's side in Norway) is coming from. It can be heard only between 90 and 110 kph and only when the engine is pulling (when coasting it goes away). It sounds like gear noise (whirring/whining). After pressure was raised in the...

Any diagnosis from your garage? I think i may have the same noise in my 2000 1.8. Between 90 and 100 kph I can hear a whirring noise from the left hand side in the engine compartment. It makes no differerence which gear I drive in but it goes away when coasting.

I have tried to heat the VCU to 60 deg C and also cool it to minus 15 (left it outdoor for a couple of hours - right now it's 20 below, brrrr) but could tell no difference in twisting force. I think the temperature dependent silicone is the stuff that is used i cooling fan clutches and not in VCUs.

It would be of great interest to know what they actually do when they overhaul a VCU. The unit is welded-up, so it will have to be cut apart to get cleaned inside. I have tried to blow the gel out with compressed air after I removed the two steel ball plugs, without success. It is however...

Mine's exactly the same. Slight coolant loss and slight coolant smell in the engine compartment. No smell from the heater which is rather new so it can't be that. My theory is that my new MLS head gasket does not seal perfectly when the system is hot and under pressure.

Did you check the crank sensor? Distributor rotor? Earthing points?

The part you describe is the "coolant rail".

Water droplets in the oil filler cap does not necessarily mean HGF. It is probably just condensation. Perfectly normal, especially this time of the year. Keep an eye on the coolant level and also check the dipstick for emulgated oil.

The K-engine's water pump is driven by the timing belt so it could be that it has jumped a tooth or two if the pump was frozen. To check the timing marks you will have to remove the timing cover.:scratching_chin: