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Thanks :) . Looking forward to working on her and getting her back into a usable condition. Back half of chassis is so rotten that the spring hangers corroded off all together and springs are against chassis rail etc. I will get there!

Cheers for the link, il get the laptop out tomorrow and get printing so I have it to hand.

Thanks for the help, I found the switch, it was the pressure switch type on the valve block where the brakes split to the rear and fronts. I actually found it when I was lying underneath loosening the oil filter housing. Gave the connections a clean and I now have break lights! Kermit_rr was...

Thanks for that. I have a manual but still trying to get my head around each aspect. Drained my oil tonight and fitted new rocker cover gasket. New filter tomorrow and fill with oil and finish off servicing. Thanks again

Thanks for the link it's the ones that are fluted one end and square off the other. Il get a full set of them and change them all over to new in the next couple of weeks when doing the axles. I'm currently hunting for my break light switch? Break Lights aren't working and want to short it out to...

That's great news about the wheel studs, thanks. Regarding the brake cylinders il do that and replace as I'm renewing shoes all around anyway so at least il know everything's changed apart from the drums that aren't that bad.

Hi everyone, I'm new to series ownership and have had some great help/advice in the last two weeks on the forum in the series engines forum. She was a non runner and requires a half chassis and front dumb iron work as well as the usual bulkhead common repairs. I'm going to undertake a...

Can anyone confirm the clear lens lights on back are Reverse lights on a 1968 series2a as I have a fog light togle on dash but no fog light (possibly fell off over the years) , but didn't think fog Lights would be clear to The rear obviously. Thanks

Assuming it's original obviously

That is a great description, and I'm sure il need the advice in future again as I go on enjoying my Series owner ship, we have a d4 and I'm frightened to Touch anything as I'd do more damage so when I finally got the series I was really Keen to get stuck in a get learning. I'm going to service...

Went out with good intentions to bleed brakes tonight but my spider didn't fit wheel nuts, found out after it's a 27mm socket and bar I need. Changed bulbs tonight to test and make sure everything was working and it all was apart from brake lights and reverse lights. Is there any first port of...

Forget that guys, left her running for a half hour there and went out and gave the pedd a few good forceful presses and it started working! Just brakes to bleed tomorrow evening and I'll have stopping power too. Won't drive her too far incase the back half of chassis falls off right enough...

So get back end onto axle stands and start it in 1st and wait until it frees off? Il park my old van directly against it incase we have a run away landy!

Did I hear somewhere before that the heat from engine can free it of I leave engine running for a while? Any other tips ?

I don't think I worded my last message properly. I have all gears when engine is off. Can freely move through them all and can hear them slotting in, it's just now when I've bled clutch and tried them when engine was running I can get into any as the first 2 and revers just grind (I was gentle...

Just had a go and I can only feel reverse, 1st and 2nd , just feel them touching/grinding so stopped, I couldn't feel 3rd or 4th at all,

Cheers, il have a look at the revs later and adjust, I was so surprised how quiet the engine was. I have no exhaust apart from first pipe from manifold so it's pretty loud at moment, that's coming this week.

Yeah I knew about the synchro in 1st and 2nd but never tried 3rd or 4th, do you think maybe engine is idling with too many revs ?

Now when I've started and try to go into gear it just starts to crunch as if clutch is not disengaged